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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to know who what people are using for chain cleaners and lube and why?

Seems that most like WD-40 for cleaning, but when it comes to lube, opinions are all over the board.

Thanks in advance for your input!
 
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Discussion Starter #2
chain stuff

if you want good and easy here is how you do it. http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/

1 install this
2 when you fiill up with gas ~250 miles. yes 250, squeeze it and ride home at least 15miles.
3 next day wash bike. this gets the fling off the chaingaurd and rim.
4 if it rains while riding squeeze it again. you need lube in rain. and you are going to wash bike anyway.

simple cheap easy, it has saved me so much time.

i dont work for them, and this is just my opionion i could be wrong.

beers
john stewart
orlando fl
 
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Discussion Starter #4
chain wax

yes,
if you want to do it the hard way chain wax is the best.

beers
john stewart
orlando fl
 

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chain oiler

I am just installing the Loobman from the UK on my Strom. I haven't had time to evaluate it yet, but I like the inexpensive, simplistic design and able to just use plain engine oil for lube. After evaluating the others, the Loobman seemed the best for me.

jdpower :lol:
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I am not the poster boy for chain maintenance. I clean maybe every 5,000 miles with WD 40 and lube every 1,000 to 1,500 with Bel Ray Superclean Blue. Oem lasted 10,000 miles and replacement DID lasted 18,000.
 

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chain oiling and cleaning

I have a Scot-Oiler on my 650. I like it a lot, actually. It even cleans the sprocket. There is some fling, though.
 

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echo said:
What do people who race motorcycles use to lube their chains?

90 wt transmission oil, usually.
Everyone I do track days with uses WD-40.

I've used only WD-40 on my chains since the mid 80's; have always gotten from 10K to 40K on chains so I know it works for me.

Silicone spray works pretty good as well.

There are two requirements for O/X ring chains:

1. Keep the rings from drying
2. Keep anything abrasive away from the rings

I see so many lubed up, gunked up chains that are a some assemblance of an abrasive paste! Junk flung all over the bike and all... What a mess!

If you haven't tried WD-40 every 3-500 miles, you don't know what your missing! Even if it were the case that my chain wore out 5000 miles sooner than if I used all the messy lubes (which isn't the case; they last longer for me), I'd still use it for the conveinence and cleanliness. My 2 cents and 20+ years with motorcyles and chains.

I spray while the tire is rotating and get it wet as wet can be, right at the back of the sprocket to help blow out any crud, then rub it down with paper towels to remove the majority of it. There is little residual and the o-rings are moistened. If in the rain I spray it down that day as well, or even during a trip at gas stops if it's really wet out.

I've never had any chain rust, or frozen links. I have a chain I pulled over the summer with 30K on it, I think I'll cut it open and look at the grease packing. Since this one too was replaced due to maximum stretch, and not stiffness, I bet it's fine.

My friend and I had KLR 650's, both with new chains. He religiously degrunged, cleaned and lubed the chain, we always had the tension set alike etc... His chain died at 15K, I sold my bike with 26K on the chain and it was still in great shape... Guess who went to Costco and bought a case of WD40...

It works folks, try it you'll like it! :D
 

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I've been using Loobman on my dl650 for the past 3000 miles and think its a great gadget for the $$$$. Like John Stewart said, every 300 miles I just squeeze the bottle before going for a ride. I filled the bottle with regular engine oil and after 3000 its still has about half left.

I also like to clean the chain with WD-40 every 1500 miles to get all of the grime off that might have accumulated. Once the chain is clean, I squeeze the bottle and go ride again. :)

Nice and easy.

Wingman
 
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Discussion Starter #11
i check every day. clean & lube as needed. i use WD40 for cleaning.
i use PJ1 or suzuki chain lube because, it doesnt fly off.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I clean with WD40 and use PJ1 Blue label. I lube/clean about every 700 miles.... or near that range. As far as the lubes go, PJ1 Blue is the best I have found. A little goes a long way, and it isn't as waxy/sticky as others.
 
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http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

WD-40 will remove the grease from inside your chain. It is NOT a good high pressure lube either. "Dork" used it and ate up his chain. (Look at the other forum) It's limited ability to lube is very short lived and it is primarily a penetrant and water displacer. (we used to dip helicopters in it back in the service, when they splashed down, to get the water out of the small places in the wires, switches, and connectors ... etc.

On the track they mostly do not use O or X ring chains. WD-40 will really lube up the O and X ring so they slide over the plate easily but it will wash out the grease. WD-40 is not a high pressure lube like grease. The loads in the rollers are a lot different (less) then the plate to O ring contact. A light wash with WD-40 before a race when using an O ring chain will cut O ring friction, but hosing it down often with WD-40 will wash/flush out the internal "sealed" in grease.. NOT GOOD!

If you use WD-40 All the time (every time you stop) *maybe* it will "work" but I have found that it shortens life. Use at your own risk.

Loobman is an excellent inexpensive way to keep the O rings lubed and NOT wash out the grease. Spray lube is excellent when used correctly. (I like the Honda with white graphite.)

I plan on getting a Loobman after looking at many different makes from simple to very complex (computer controlled: http://www.pro-oiler.com/).

KISS works with this. Some times simple is better IMHO. The pro oiler is kinda cool but the Loobman is simple and easy. Squirt n go. For a chain oiler a dual tip is essential. Oil will not wick across effectively. If you get one make sure it has this option! Loobman changed to a dual tip after finding the chain life was cut shorter than the potential life when a dual tip is used. (read their FAQ).

http://www.chainoiler.co.uk/
http://www.pro-oiler.com/
http://www.scottoiler.com/default.asp
http://www.hawkeoiler.com/specifications.html
 
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Discussion Starter #14
WD-40 will remove the grease from inside your chain. It is NOT a good high pressure lube either. "Dork" used it and ate up his chain. (Look at the other forum) It's limited ability to lube is very short lived and it is primarily a penetrant and water displacer. (we used to dip helicopters in it back in the service, when they splashed down, to get the water out of the small places in the wires, switches, and connectors ... etc.

On the track they mostly do not use O or X ring chains. WD-40 will really lube up the O and X ring so they slide over the plate easily but it will wash out the grease. WD-40 is not a high pressure lube like grease. The loads in the rollers are a lot different (less) then the plate to O ring contact. A light wash with WD-40 before a race when using an O ring chain will cut O ring friction, but hosing it down often with WD-40 will wash/flush out the internal "sealed" in grease.. NOT GOOD!
Warren is going to have fun with this one!!!! :lol: :lol:
I still think it is best to keep it clean, and properley adjusted! :wink:
Too many people "overlube" IMHO.
I personally, don't see how the grease stays in after repeated cleaning, brushing and wipe downs..... that might just be a load of CRAP!
 

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Oh now Brian... No biggie... :wink:

I'd agree with him; but then we'd both be wrong... :lol:

Seriously though, I've seen one chain since the 80's where they claimed WD-40 was only used, and the chain was toast at about 12K. I queried the owner about how often he sprayed her down. He stated that he sprayed it "about once a month" and put 12K on the bike in 9 months...

You gotta hit it every 300 miles or so, so that it always has a nice sheen to it.

I'll put my direct experience against conjecture and heresay any day.

I've got to take some pictures of the chain I just took off (about 38K on it) due to stretch limit. There was still plenty of grease in the pins.

You know there is also another option. Buy a low-end $50 chain, totally ignore it and change it when it dies at about 7K. You may break even cost-wise on all the cans of crud and all the cleaning time you spend... :wink:
 

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The owner's manual says to use kerosene to clean the chain what, every 600 miles? It's great advice. I have an old spray bottle filled with kerosene and use the chain brush from my Park Tool cleaning brush set, and some clean rags. Old toothbrushes work great too.

Remove the chainguard, spray and brush the chain and sprocket, spray some more and most of the crud rolls right off. Spray a little more and wipe repeatedly with clean, soft rags. Adjust tension if needed and lube. Very nice! Looks like new.

I can make the filthiest chain and sprocket sparkle like new very quickly. The kerosene does not hurt the o-rings and very quickly dissolves all the crud. I've done this probably 8 times in 11,000 miles (less often than you're supposed to do it) and the chain and sprockets looks great. I have only had to adjust the chain 3 times so far. I am guessing there's another 20,000 in this chain anyhow.
 

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I use the WD 40 to clean and non fling chain schloob to finish er off.
I try not and get crazy about it, but after a good rip in the dust or every 1k. My Ninja had 2 chain changes with 40k total using this method.
I would use kerosene to clean though. So far the Wee has 7k and Ive had to adjust the chain once.

By the way does the American spec'd bike have a cotter pin in the rear axle to keep the nut from backing off??

Personally Id like to see a shaft back there! :wink:
 

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WD-40 will eat your O- rings. Don't do it. Use kerosene to clean and a lube specified for O-ring chains.
 

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fyr, If you want to do away with the cotter pin, call Dual Star motorcycle adventure outfitters at 1-800-466-7433 and ask for the rear axle locknut for your bike. They are open M-F 9-6 PST. I got one and it works great. No more cotter pin aggravation. :D
 

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Jackpiner,

Do you know what style of lock nut is it? Nylock or metal insert? Some other kind?

From my aircraft maintenance background I learned that most types of self-locking nuts are really only intended to be used once. I know a Strom is not an F-15 Strike Eagle, but I like the idea that a steel pin is keeping my axle nut from rotating in the anti-clockwise direction.

It could be that I have been traumatized however. Years and years ago, I drove a VW Beetle quadracycle. The rear brake drums were splined to the drive shafts and held on with big nuts and cotter pins. I thought it would be slick replace both cotter pins with hitch pins. Bad idea. Either one fell out or someone pulled it. At 70 MPH on I-95 near Patten, ME, the left rear wheel/tire/brake drum came right off the car. The left rear shock mount slammed into the pavement and I surfed that puppy to a shaky stop on three wheels and a steel post. I had to have my upholstery dry cleaned. :wink:

Maybe that's why I like cotter pins...
 
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