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STROMETTE - Anyway you can get those brackets made again for the Stebel horn for me to purchase???




BlueWee said:
STROMETTE said:
make brackets yourself to complete the job (or have a whiz like Jim do it).

Who is Jim? Can he make another bracket like that for me to purchase???

I had the fairings all taken apart the past couple days trying to fit / install a Scotts Steering Damper and was going to install the horn, but just could not come up with the right brackets. That is exactly what I need!

Please let us know!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
BlueWee said:
STROMETTE - Anyway you can get those brackets made again for the Stebel horn for me to purchase???




BlueWee said:
STROMETTE said:
make brackets yourself to complete the job (or have a whiz like Jim do it).

Who is Jim? Can he make another bracket like that for me to purchase???

I had the fairings all taken apart the past couple days trying to fit / install a Scotts Steering Damper and was going to install the horn, but just could not come up with the right brackets. That is exactly what I need!

Please let us know!
Jim is my super-duper-master-mechanic-extraordinare and the one who fabricated the thinggy for the Stebel. I'll see him in less than a week (when I get back to AZ) and if I remember I'll ask him then.

Stromette
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Follow up after 60,000+ miles:

Works just like it did the day it was installed on the Strom. An awesome upgrade to any bike!! :p

Stromette
 

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I found that you can mount the horn onto the lower rad mounting hole fairly easily. My bracket was off a wheel chair but any bar stock would work. It takes a bit longer bolt to connect through the rad mount. I unplugged the stock horn connections and used them in conjunction with the relay as per the instructions that come with the horn.
 

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Hey Colin,

Nice job with the Stebel. I need one. I take it you ordered out of the U.S.? What were the duty charges like? I'm just curious as I'm looking to order some more farkles from our Southern friends.
 

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Hi Colin,

I am going to be ordering a Stebel Shortly. When you mention the relay are you talking about one that was already on the bike for the factory horn or one that comes with or has to be ordered with the Stebel?

I also would like to know where you ardered it from and how that all aworked out.

Thanks,

Tom

I found that you can mount the horn onto the lower rad mounting hole fairly easily. My bracket was off a wheel chair but any bar stock would work. It takes a bit longer bolt to connect through the rad mount. I unplugged the stock horn connections and used them in conjunction with the relay as per the instructions that come with the horn.
 

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Another Stebel mounting option

Here's where I put mine. The trumpets face forward, and the body is inside the line of my crashbars. Homemade bracket made from two pieces of 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum and mounted to the top rear frame bolt. Works well.
 

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Whistler, exellent job. I'm getting the Pat Walsh guard next week and will surely follow your example with Stebel mounting. BTW, what frame sliders do you use with the guards?

I've read all three pages of this and still cannot figure out why was it not an option to use the leads from the stock horn to power the Stebel?
 

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Whistler, exellent job. I'm getting the Pat Walsh guard next week and will surely follow your example with Stebel mounting. BTW, what frame sliders do you use with the guards?

I've read all three pages of this and still cannot figure out why was it not an option to use the leads from the stock horn to power the Stebel?
VRoss, I got the frame and swingarm sliders from http://stores.ebay.com/sv650-racing-parts. The owner's name is Blair Layton, and he manufactures, sells, and races his own sliders. His email is [email protected]. He's very easy to work with, and is a top-notch vendor who is also an avid motorcyclist. His stuff is worth a closer look, and installs without a hitch. BTW, let him know you're using Pat Walsh bars (I think he ships longer frame sliders that match the coverage of the bars).

Re: your question about how to power the Stebel (and this is only my opinion) . . . the stock horn wiring is likely a smaller guage wire than that which might be optimum with the Stebel. Also, the Stebel draws more amperage from the Strom's system, even though it's momentary. The stock horn leads CAN and often ARE used to provide switched power to a relay that in turn provides 100% of available voltage to the Stebel, maximizing its output (see pic below. The stock beeper's voltage usually runs a gauntlet of wiring and other electrical apparatus before actually reaching the beeper, while a dedicated circuit i.e., a relay harness such as the ones from www.easternbeaver.com and elsewhere, provide a direct and more efficient flow of juice to the device from the battery or fusebox.

Wow, I hope this all makes sense . . . hopefully someone will correct and/or add more beneficial info to this, since I'm the first to declare that I am NOT an automotive or motorcycle electrician by trade.
 

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Thanks, Whistler. That wire gauge argument makes sense. I wonder if the power (wattage) rating of the stock horn were that different from the Stebel's. Anybody knows?

I did wrote to Blair about the Sliders. I think they would work great with Pat Walsh product.
 

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Thanks, Whistler. That wire gauge argument makes sense. I wonder if the power (wattage) rating of the stock horn were that different from the Stebel's. Anybody knows?

I did wrote to Blair about the Sliders. I think they would work great with Pat Walsh product.
Well, if the write-up at http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2137/539/ is accurate, then the current draw of just under 18 amps for the Stebel translates to around 216 watts of output, according to Ohm's Law (watts=volts x amps). That's pretty hefty power output, something I'm pretty sure the stock beeper just can't begin to touch. That's serious noise . . .

Good luck with the sliders from Blair's place . . . if you do choose to buy them, I think you'll like them very much.
 

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why you should use a relay: layman's version

... the stock horn wiring is likely a smaller guage wire than that which might be optimum with the Stebel. Also, the Stebel draws more amperage from the Strom's system, even though it's momentary. The stock horn leads CAN and often ARE used to provide switched power to a relay that in turn provides 100% of available voltage to the Stebel, maximizing its output (see pic below. The stock beeper's voltage usually runs a gauntlet of wiring and other electrical apparatus before actually reaching the beeper, while a dedicated circuit i.e., a relay harness such as the ones from www.easternbeaver.com and elsewhere, provide a direct and more efficient flow of juice to the device from the battery or fusebox.
Whistler is right, the stock horn leads on most bikes are much smaller guage than what should power your Stebel. It all comes down to resistance: the smaller wires have more resistance to the flow of current, which reduces the amount of juice to the horn, making it weaker. That resistance also produces a lot of heat, which will eventually fry your horn switch.

What's not shown in Whistler's wiring diagram is a fuse between the battery and the relay, as close as possible to the battery end of the run. If you have a fuse block, of course use that. This will prevent a short in the horn circuit from becoming in a short across the battery terminals when you press the button, which you definitely don't want.

I installed the horn wiring kit from Eastern Beaver on my last bike. It was top quality and included very good instructions with diagrams. I also installed one of their headlight wiring harnesses, which made the stock headlight (Yamaha Seca II) much brighter using the same bulb. The Strom headlights seem to have better stock wiring -- they're certainly much brighter than the Seca -- though I'm not sure if they use a relay.
 

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I don't know if anybody read the latest Motorcycle Consumer News, but there's an article on wiring up a Stebel (not on a V-Strom). In the article the guy mentions using a diode across two of the relay terminals. Apparently when you release the horn button there is some kind of voltage spike that can damage things.

Haven't seen anything about a diode on this board. Unfortunately don't have the article in front of me so I don't have the details.

Anybody know anything about this?

- Bob
 

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Haven't seen anything about a diode on this board. Unfortunately don't have the article in front of me so I don't have the details.

Anybody know anything about this?
There are a few of us around here who were taught component level repair.

It's good standard practice to put a diode (usually 1n4001) across the coil of a relay. It knocks down the inductive spike when the coil is energized or de-enenergized. In audio equipment it minimizes/eliminates clicking when a relay is turned on or off. In the case of the Stebel, you can get away without the diode, but they're dirt cheap and it's very easy to do, and you *might* be preventing a problem depending on where you mount the relay.
 

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V-Tom said:
When you mention the relay are you talking about one that was already on the bike for the factory horn or one that comes with or has to be ordered with the Stebel?
I got the horn from California Sport Touring and the relay came with it. I just took the leads off the Strom horn and with a couple of short extensions connected them to the relay which I then fastened above the rad.
The rest of the wiring follows the diagram that came with the horn except that it is connected to my auxillary fuse box under the seat. Ground is NOT to the frame.
 

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What's not shown in Whistler's wiring diagram is a fuse between the battery and the relay, as close as possible to the battery end of the run. If you have a fuse block, of course use that. This will prevent a short in the horn circuit from becoming in a short across the battery terminals when you press the button, which you definitely don't want.
Here's a corrected version of the diagram to which Golden Monkey refers. Thanks for the catch, GM (I gotta pay closer attention when I'm tweakin' other people's drawings). :-D

Whistler
 

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