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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read the alternator does not put out much extra watts over factory electronics that come on motorcycle.
In fact the manual recommends not putting any electronic accessories other than factory.
I replace every bulb I could with led to give me more excess watts and all I have is a USB and voltage gauge which has an on off switch, so I don't drain the battery when it is off.
I bought my 2013 in 2014 and I have replaced the battery only once.
So I am not over taxing my alternator.
But I am thinking about adding some lights, Does any one know how much excess watts the alternator puts out.
I had rather not have extra lights if I am over taxing my alternator.
 

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"Amps" might be a better search criteria.
 

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I'm going by memory, but I think you have an extra 150 watts to play with.

The way the shunt rectifier/regulator is set up, if the alternator is designed to make 490 watts, it makes 490 watts pretty much all the time (not counting idle). If you are only using 250 watts, the shunt turns the rest into waste heat. Provided you don't attempt to draw more than 490 watts, you will not put any extra strain on the alternator or the rectifier/regulator. In fact, using most or all of the available watts puts less heat into the shunt part. Again, don't quote me on these exact numbers.

Here is a quote from the 2014 upgrade:

(February 2014) Maximum
output of the alternator on the 2014 Suzuki V-Strom 1000 ABS is
490 Watts @ 5,000 RPM, compared to 400 Watts on the previous version.

 

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And to add - that 150 watts is only available at a reference RPM of 3000 or 5000 or so. Not when idling.

Your best bet is to keep a good eye on the voltmeter (on-board or added) when switching on and off accessoires. You may find that you can run accessoires A, B and C all individually, but A can only run in combination with B, but not with C. Or something like that. You'll learn over time what works and what not.
 

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Your best bet is to keep a good eye on the voltmeter (on-board or added) when switching on and off accessoires. You may find that you can run accessoires A, B and C all individually, but A can only run in combination with B, but not with C. Or something like that. You'll learn over time what works and what not.
Good advice. My voltmeter informed me that running heated jacket and gloves and 70W of aux lighting was depleting the battery. Inspired me to switch to LED aux lighting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I found this very helpful.


11. Strom Wattage Available. This is at 5000 RPM, at idle and slow speeds, considerably less.

02 DL1000 = (350 watts) ~95 watts to play with
03 to 12 DL1000 = (400 watts) ~ 145 watts to play with
14 & Up DL1000A = (490 watts and a single headlight) ~ 285 watts to play with on low beam
04-07 DL650 = (375 watts) ~ 120 watts to play with (ABS models somewhat less)
08 & Up DL650 = (400 watts) ~ 145 watts to play with (ABS models somewhat less)
02 DL1000 with 05 SV1000 engine & HID headlights & LED's ~ 190 to play with

My 2013 dl650 has 400 watts, 120 watts to play with. (145 -25 abs = 120)

I am guessing they increase the wattage from 375 to 400, because most models have ABS.
I guess it must be around 260 watts at idle. 400- 140 =260
If less than 255 watts the battery would be losing power at idle

Does anyone have hard numbers, I am just guessing?
 

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I put LEDs in the headlights and run Oxford grips and my GPS's and the Gerbing jacket and the volt meter still shows 14.5+ volts charging. When I turn on the LED running lights it drops a little but still above 14 volts charge
 
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