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I've been wondering the same thing. From what I've read around here (and there's plenty of discussion about oil), some people do use car motor oil. Mobil 1 and Castrol GTX are two oils I've heard people are using.

On my first oil change, I used the Suzuki oil specifically made for motorcycles. On my next change, I will be switching to a fully synthetic oil, most likely Shell Rotella T, which I've heard people are happy with here.

Any-who, do a search for oil here, and clear your schedule, cause you'll have plenty of reading to do!
 

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Yes, sure, of course, and Hell ya!!! Just be sure that the viscosity is 10W40 or higher, as well as 5W40 and up too! Almost ALL oil below these ranges have large amounts of friction modifiers in them or "energy conserving" oils...STAY AWAY FROM THEM! The diesel oils are excellent to use. Chevron Delo and Mobil Delvac 1300 are 2 others that are awesome diesel oils. I use Mobil 1 15W50 full syn in my bike. Bike shifts very nicely and I have ZERO oil consumption and no engine noises at all! Castrol does make some good moto oils, that are cheap and should work very well!
 

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Pretty much just stay away from any oil that says "energy conserving" and make sure the temperature range in the manual is covered. I don't think there are any energy conserving oils that get up to 40 for the higher number. I too like diesel rated oils and am using Shell Rotella 15w-40. http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm has some decent info. My local BMW tech group didn't like Valvoline 20 years ago because the additive package broke down faster than most. I have no idea if that is still true but I avoid it on principle.
 

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I ran more than 5,000 miles on a western trip late last spring and early summer on 10W40 (either Valvoline or Mobil, whatever was on the shelf in the garage) and didn't use a drop. It looked good enough to drink when I drained it. At least better than the coffee at most of my stops on the road.
 

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I would never run "car" oil.. I figure with the amount of Givi crap I've installed, I should be running Olive oil. :lol:

I run whatever major brand's oil is on sale and the right weight. I also change every 2500-3000 miles.. And yes, it's car oil..

I like olive oil, too..
 

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Amsoil 10-40 car oil has no friction molifiers so I will be pouring that in next with a Zuk filter. It isn't a cheap way to go but I feel good about it. Change On.
 

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Big B said:
The diesel oils are excellent to use. Chevron Delo and Mobil Delvac 1300 are 2 others that are awesome diesel oils.
I used Chevron Delo but the guy at the dealer said not to because "it's made for diesel engines with loose tolerances and has chemicals in it that clean diesel engines...". Don't know if this is true or not, but to be on the safe side I drained it out and put in Honda GN4 oil. I think I'm going to use this until about 3000 or 4000 miles when I switch to full synthetic.
 

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Re: Prolong??

ryan said:
Thanks for all the input. Noticed my oil level is above the full line, is this a problem? Can I put a bottle or part of a bottle of prolong engine treatment?
I don't think it should be above the full line. I heard it should be in the middle of the two lines. I did this by accident on my first oil change and mis-judged the amount! Just opened the drain plug for a second and then closed it, which made the level correct. I find my bike with a filter change uses a little more the 3 quarts.
 

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water warrior said:
Amsoil 10-40 car oil has no friction molifiers so I will be pouring that in next with a Zuk filter. It isn't a cheap way to go but I feel good about it. Change On.
Why may I ask......would you use the Amsoil car oil, when their moto specific oil is $1.70 more per quart???? :shock: For 5 bucks a quart, you can run Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic car oil, and buy it at the store! :wink:
 

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I don't see the point of using Amsoil M/C oil when the actual difference in the additive package is so small. As for the Amsoil preference, I used it for a number of years in two different cages from bumper to bumper and got better than normal expectations for wear and reliability. I also got better gas mileage, especially in a colder climate.
We all have a given preference and I am sure most oils will do the job successfully. A lot of folks prefer the Mobil 1 and I won't say it is not a good choice because it is. It was my second choice and a bit cheaper too. I just thought I would go with an oil that has been proven to be a little better than Mobil 1. This is from reports I have read in the past. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 

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I think oil treatments are not needed: Just buy good oil when you bike is new and/or use synthetic oil if you have a few miles on it. It's the same as using some additive. I think additives in general are a marketing gimic... ie. a product that may be nice to have, but is not really needed if you use good oil or synthetic oil and provides no cost savings in using it. I don't know of any additional benefit that those products provide beyond what is already in high quality oils. If there is, I'd like to know about it.
 

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Ryan, I would recommend staying away from any additives. Generally a good oil is the best treatment for your engine. A lot of these additives on the market have molifiers and such that might destroy the clutch in time. Your engine was designed with good oil in mind and not after-market stuff. Just stick with good oil of your choice and enjoy the ride. Ride On, Ride Safe.
 
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motor oils

my understanding is when you read the specification of motor cycle oil vs car motor oil is : car oil has a rating of SJ & more where motor cycle oil does not have a SJ rating. Apparently SJ is a lubricating factor that could varnish the clutch especially if you don't change the oil enough & during storage periods. I personally have been using Pennsoil motor cycle oil for that reason, however I have also used Chevron Delo 400, 15 - 40 as I use in my truck & all other vehicles, lawn mowers etc. It is one of the best oils at a fair price. The only negative experience I have had is in the spring, the clutch is very sticky on the first start up. I warmed the bike up but the clutch would not release, so I shut the bike off & rocked it in second gear & worked the clutch at the same time. It was a bit jerky the first few shifts & starts but after the first ride it was ok. ( I alway change the oils before storage) Using pennsoil motor cycle oil I haven't had the sticky clutch on the last 2 new bikes in the spring.
 

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The Honda GN4 "4-stroke motorcycle" I use says "SJ" on the label. The guy recommend it and said DON'T use the Chevron Delo oil because it has cleaning agents in it, and not good for bike engines.
 

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ChrisW123, I want a clean engine. Whether it be a car, bike or garden tractor, a clean engine will last longer. Getting rid of unwanted deposits, varnish build-up and other contaminants is the job of oil just as lubricating is the job of oil. The oil itself does not wear out but the detergents and additives do get used up with use. That is why we change oil.
I think you were told a fib just to sell his product. Think of it this way, if your hands are dirty would you wash them without a cleaning agent(soap) ?
 
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