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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I bought a 116 link open ended chain but got the oem chain for a dl650.

I have a rivet master link and the tool to deal with it. Can I 'break' the oem chain and use the rivet master link? Or do I need another new chain.

I have already cut off the old one and installed the new sprockets so I can't ride until this is sorted out.

--Kevin
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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If you got the chain and master link from Suzuki parts, you can do that. Sometimes chains and links from different places can cause problems but master links and chains from the same series are fine. Do grind the end of the pin flush before pressing it out and don't forget to grease the chain bushings and master link pins.
 

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That's exactly what I did when the dealer bought me a OEM chain without realizing it was continuous. I just got a master link and did what you're planning to do. Not sure if there's an issue with matching the master link to the chain. I think I got the same brand but only by accident. Taking the swingarm off just to replace the chain seems silly to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You guys are incredible. Thanks for the quick response.

The chain and link are both suzuki parts, in suzuki packaging and both marked 'did' on the links.

I'll carefully dremel the end of the pins of one link off and go from there.

I agree - removing the swingarm seems silly.

BTW I got the stock parts since I got 21,000 on the originals. Good enough.

--Kevin
 

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BTW I got the stock parts since I got 21,000 on the originals. Good enough.
That was my thinking, too, until I realized that the difference in price between the Suzuki chain and a good aftermarket chain would buy me a really nice chain tool. :( I won't do that again. I will still take off the swingarm at that time, though, not because of the chain, but because it's a great time to grease the dogbone and swingarm pivots and bearings.
 

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You guys are incredible. Thanks for the quick response.

The chain and link are both suzuki parts, in suzuki packaging and both marked 'did' on the links.

I'll carefully dremel the end of the pins of one link off and go from there.

I agree - removing the swingarm seems silly.

BTW I got the stock parts since I got 21,000 on the originals. Good enough.

--Kevin
At 21,000 it's a good idea to pull the swingarm anyway and grease the bearings. Suzuki puts very little in there to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, now you're making me think.....

Maybe I'll take off the swingarm after all. By the time I fiddle with parting the chain and putting it together again I could probably do the swingarm, get it greased and use the chain as-is. Plus get the bolt greased (I did the shock knuckle because I also just replaced the shock). In 20k when I do the next one I'll get the right chain....

Any tips on swingarm removal?

--Kevin
 

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Ok, now you're making me think.....

Maybe I'll take off the swingarm after all. By the time I fiddle with parting the chain and putting it together again I could probably do the swingarm, get it greased and use the chain as-is. Plus get the bolt greased (I did the shock knuckle because I also just replaced the shock). In 20k when I do the next one I'll get the right chain....

Any tips on swingarm removal?

--Kevin
If you've already successfully R&R'd the shock the swingarm shouldn't pose any real challenge. You do have to pull the exhaust, which can be a little fiddly and time consuming, but overall it's not a bad job.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Really the most fiddly thing are my jesse bag brackets, which are in the way of all of the things I need to remove to get the SA off.

I also will need to make / buy / beg /borrow / steal the castle nut wrench to get the nut off the SA bolt. Stupid arrangement that is.

But I also have a Honda XR400 that no one ever greased the pivot bolt on. We eventually had to cut off the swingarm and burn the bolt out of the engine (through which it passes) with a plasma cutter. Fun. So we won't be letting this chore go - I learned my lesson.

--Kevin
 

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One other thing, check the swingarm rub block that the chain rides against. If it's very worn replace it. Don't want the chain cutting into the swingarm. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok,

Got the swingarm bolt out. I made the tool for the castle nut and did the 3/4" bolt with 2 nuts to get the pivot bolt out. The bolt was clean, not greased but not rusted either. I ride year round in CT including in some rain, but generally stay out of deep water.

I didn't remove the shock or exhaust but I was able to clean up the chain oil muck on the sprocket side and get the chain on and grease the bolt and re-assemble.

Now I need the torque specs for the pivot bolt and left-side nut. I believe I read elsewhere that the castle nut is 11 ft/lb.

Anyone have the torque specs for those ?

BTW the rubber chain 'guide' seemed pretty good. I would be inclined to replace that and teh SA bearings next time just because.

--Kevin
 
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