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I'm in the middle of doing a valve adjustment on my '09 650, and have been going over the procedure as outlined in the manual, and in conjunction with all the info on this site, which has been very helpful. I've come to the point of taking the 12mm bolt/spring out of the the rear cam chain tensioner, and it's as big a PITA as everyone has said. Well, more so actually. I realize the ABS black box, as well as it's support bracket which runs almost in front of the chain tensioner, always seems to be in the way. Has anyone run into this with the ABS models?? Any advise is welcome.

For those interested, the wee had 3 out of spec (tight) valves (2 intakes, 1 exhaust) 4 valves were on the tight side but in spec, and 1 was in the middle. It's the bike's first check with 15,300 miles.
 

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To answer my own question in case someone else runs into this. To get to the rear cam chain tensioner on a wee with ABS (or without) taking the rear wheel and little mud guard, which is attached to the ABS black box, off. This gives you a clear shot to the tensioner using a long extension with a U joint. I placed 1 wrap of duct tape on the U joint to keep from flopping downward. Place a rag under the tensioner to catch dripping oil when you take the bolt out, and more importantly it will catch the bolt/spring if it falls out of the socket. If it falls into to bowels of the bike it will be quite challenging to get it out, speaking from my little mistake. It first appeared to me that the ABS box would have to come out, which would be a PITA, no one mentioned taking the rear tire off in posts I'd read.
 

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To get to the rear cam chain tensioner on a wee PITA
just playing with the adjustment on my 2014 , and yeah this is the big pita in doing this yourself.

I wonder how many just yank on the chain to get the cams out due to this? 😰🥶

Does taking off the rear wheel help ? I need to change the tire anyway..

😖 dreading the rear tensioner removal

I think to reinsert it . I'll contact cement the washer to the bolt , contact cement the bolt to the 12 mm socket and put a bunch of grease in the bolt to hold the spring , as well as put a piece of tape on the universal to hold it more rigid ......
 

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A couple of long/short extensions and a universal adapter with elec tape on it to restrict it's range to about 15-20 degrees works fine on my ABS bike with rear tire in place. But, taking the tire off gives you more room to see what is going on. I recommend a good headlamp...it helps a ton to see wtf you are doing. So, yes if you are already going to pull the tire, do it.
 

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It seems that I have read that you do not need to remove the bolt, only back it off a certain amount. Can any one tell me if I am right or wrong on this? it would be nice to know for sure if you don't have to completely remove the bolt. thanks in advance for good information.

Cheers

RLBranson
 

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It seems that I have read that you do not need to remove the bolt, only back it off a certain amount. Can any one tell me if I am right or wrong on this? it would be nice to know for sure if you don't have to completely remove the bolt. thanks in advance for good information.

Cheers

RLBranson
Correct, just back it off enough to be able to release the pawl,,,,something like 5-6 turns if I remember right. As you back it off you can look down and see how far it has to go from inside the valve covers.
 

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so far so good
I have the luxury of time not like a bike jock in a repair shop so .... I backed off the rear tensioner bolt about 5 turns , left the ratchet on ,
I bought a very thin flat slotted 18 inch long screwdriver. It fit just fine in the pwel and after some dorking around , including setting up a bungee cord to put pressure on the chain I released the chain tensioner and after gentle fiddling with the cam shafts they eased out :p.

Got the tappets out . now to measure and order new shimms , I'm sweating buckets but trying to go real slow. I'll have pics if I am successful otherwise --- fail army ---
 

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Looks good got her all buttoned up and the motor runs real nice. Now a test ride .... :D (y)(y)

oppps oh no it leaked oil.... replaced the washer on the tensioner but the problem was a pinched head gasket , got that lined up with some haylycon and all seems to be ok now !!

no more leaks engine runs great ...
 
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