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We all know there are lots of debates about the "ideal" sprocket setup. The general arguments are that the stock is too high for offroad/around town, and a 16/43 (or similar) is too low for highway cruising.

Why don't we get some guy with a pocket protector and access to a nice machine shop to manufacture a higher 6th gear and then teach us all how to install it in our transmissions? That way, we could all run 16/43, and still have a nice, fuel-efficient 6th gear for highway use.

Ok, I realize this is riddled with problems, and I knew it before posting, but is it even a viable idea, or is the tranny completely off-limits to modifications? (honest question, I've done tranny work on cars but never with a sequential gearbox)
 

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$tromtrooper
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Funny, I was thinking just the other day the Wee really could benefit from an overdrive 6th.
 

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I guess if you want to spend you life on the interstate... I am running a 16 / 45 to reinforce the idea it is the last place I want to spend time with my bike.... there is always a better road...very little top end, but I don't need what the bike comes with, and the trade-off is, in the lower gears the acceleration is outstanding.... :thumbup:

and for what it is worth, there is way more involved then cutting a new 6th gear, the entire box would need to be re-designed if you want the old 5th to actually mesh with the new 6th
 

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Both 5th and 6th on the Wee are overdrive, by definition. The driving gear has more teeth than the driven gear. Only 6th on the Vee is overdrive. IMHO, changing gears would be a lot of work for little, if any, benefit. Also, a small run of a custom gear set would be very costly.
 

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I am not sure it is worth it either. I think the worse part of the hydraulic clutch setup is the inability to feather it properly for low speed stuff. Cable based clutches do not have this issue.

But, I have to say that the 17/45 or 16/43 setup should be doable for the highway and off road. I do think that a 17/43 setup with a cable clutch setup would be the best of everything.

That might be something worth looking into: converting the Vee into a cable actuated clutch.
 

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You can likely make it even more overdrive.

And you'd probably pay for the mod in improved fuel economy in a few hundred thousand miles.:jawdrop:
 

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I think the worse part of the hydraulic clutch setup is the inability to feather it properly for low speed stuff. Cable based clutches do not have this issue.
Whatchoo talkin' about, Willis? Hydraulic vs. cable clutch has nothing at all to do with being able to feather the clutch. :confused:

In fact, you can get kits to convert many dirtbikes to hydraulic clutches because hydraulics are self-adjusting and thus remain far more consistent with wear and heat.

If your clutch is grabby, you likely have other problems...


Anyway, if you want a cable clutch, my best guess would be that you need some TL1000 parts. You'd also have to tap some threads into that blank fitting on the stator cover. The TL1000 clutch cable is likely far too short, but you could have one custom-made, or perhaps try a DL650 cable.
 

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$tromtrooper
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Both 5th and 6th on the Wee are overdrive, by definition. The driving gear has more teeth than the driven gear. Only 6th on the Vee is overdrive. IMHO, changing gears would be a lot of work for little, if any, benefit. Also, a small run of a custom gear set would be very costly.
Sorry that I failed to notice this was a DL1000 thread, but who has ever complained about the gearing on a Vee?

GW, if you really mean "Wee", why doesn't the OD light come on?
 

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I think the worse part of the hydraulic clutch setup is the inability to feather it properly for low speed stuff. Cable based clutches do not have this issue.
I dare say no one feathers a clutch more than an Observed Trials rider. All modern Trials bikes have hydraulically-actuated clutches, and they are functional marvels.

James
 

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Sorry that I failed to notice this was a DL1000 thread, but who has ever complained about the gearing on a Vee?

GW, if you really mean "Wee", why doesn't the OD light come on?
Lots of Vee riders think the gearing is too tall. I'll bet a much higher percentage of Vees have had their sprocket ratios changed than Wees. Wees don't have O/D lights. They share the same instrument face but the Wees don't have any electronics or lights feeding the O/D display.
 

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I've thought about re-gearing my Vee, since around town I often find myself in the 3,400 to 3,700 range where you get that slight surging feel. Then I think nah, I'll just run at a higher RPM. Going to 4,000 to 4,200 doesn't seem to make much difference in fuel economy, the bike performs well in this range, and I still have the top end for freeway and Arizona's long straight 2-lanes. Besides, the surging at the lower RPMs is slight enough that it doesn't usually bother me too much.
 

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Both 5th and 6th on the Wee are overdrive, by definition. The driving gear has more teeth than the driven gear. Only 6th on the Vee is overdrive. IMHO, changing gears would be a lot of work for little, if any, benefit. Also, a small run of a custom gear set would be very costly.
Coming from a mechanical engineers standpoint I agree with GW and others on this. The cost and time would be no where worth the benefit. I have never opened up the transmission case on one of these but I imagine you would have to modify more than just one gear. Things such as transmissions are often designed for everything to work together, and if you change one thing other things will have toe changed in order to support that one change. Like synchros, shift rails, the gear shafts, case clearance, and so on and so forth. It would probably cost more than the bike itself cost.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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Clearance issues probably wouldn't come into play as well as any additional lubricating needs for your new 6th gearset. Neither gear is integral with a transmission shaft, meaning they are independant gears.

You need to have two gears made allowing for a unique ratio.
You need a:

- 6th gear (drive). A gear with a smooth bore that spins on it's shaft but it's location is fixed. Power distribution thru it is via a seperate adjacent gear, constantly engaged with the shaft thru splines, but which is able to be shifted along the shaft to engage with 6th thru tangs on the sides of both gears called "dogs".
- 6th (driven). A gear that's constantly engaged with it's shaft thru a splined ID. It's movement along the shaft is controlled by a shift fork that rides in a groove in the gear but it always comes to rest in one of three positions. In it's far left position it snuggles up to and engages with the gear along side of it, again thru "dogs". Power is transferred thru that gear at it's ratio. When it's shifted to it's far right position, the gear on that side of it gets the same treatment just described.
Only when it's in it's middle position does power transfer directly thru it's perimeter teeth at an effective 6th gear ratio.

BTW, of the 6 speed ratios available in the gearbox, each ratio comes about thru two gears whose teeth are in constant mesh with each other. A select number of these gears slide along the shaft they're on, but never do they move so far as to become unmeshed with it's mating gear on the opposing shaft. (A constant mesh transmission.) The transmission of power and thus what can take a beating when abused is the engagement "dogs" gears have.

I suspect the cost alone of having two custom gears made would surely inspire me to live with a tall first gear on the trail.

Dave
 

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We all know there are lots of debates about the "ideal" sprocket setup. The general arguments are that the stock is too high for offroad/around town, and a 16/43 (or similar) is too low for highway cruising.

16/43 = 4500 rpm at 70mph (gps) :yesnod:
 

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$tromtrooper
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Smoke, that's an easy fix! Buy a Vee! :green_lol:
True dat. But, I only think about it <2% of my riding. I have opted to just get comfortable running at 6k+ on the highway.
 

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I've never understood the problem. If 6th is too tall, I use 5th, or 4th. No need to change sprockets at all. If I wanted to crawl through the woods, I rode my DRZ.
 

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I dare say no one feathers a clutch more than an Observed Trials rider. All modern Trials bikes have hydraulically-actuated clutches, and they are functional marvels.

James
Well, that is awesome. But really, am I wrong in thinking that the Vee's hydraulic clutch is grabby by comparison to a cable actuated clutch? I just have a hard time "slipping" the clutch on this bike. On and off smoothly, yes. But not slipping.

What am I doing wrong? :confused:
 

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maybe

Well, that is awesome. But really, am I wrong in thinking that the Vee's hydraulic clutch is grabby by comparison to a cable actuated clutch? I just have a hard time "slipping" the clutch on this bike. On and off smoothly, yes. But not slipping.

What am I doing wrong? :confused:
The Vee has fairly stiff clutch springs. Assuming you have fresh clutch fluid, don't have a pile of crud around the slave cylinder push rod, and have recently lubed the lever pivot possibly you need to mess with the lever position adjustment, so your hand is in a comfortable position at the engagement point and you can effectively control the lever. I agree that the hydraulic system is smoother than any cable-operated system I have (especially considering the force being transmitted) and I have no problem holding the clutch right at the engagement point, although I do have rather large hands.
 
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