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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I have searched this forum over the weekend to find a answer for a non starting 03 DL1000. I replaced the battery and now it will crank over but not start. It also shows the code C32 injector signal #1 when I put it in dealer mode.
I'm looking for a way to resolve this without taking it to a dealer.
Could it be a fuse?
A bad connections?

Thanks

Note: The owner is member here but is in france on a trip and I want to have it running for him when he gets back so I became a member of this forum.
I have visited many times because of the quality of info here, and I was going to buy a v strom some years ago.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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C32 means
• Injector circuit open or short.
• Injector malfunction.
• ECM malfunction.
#1 means the problem is with the injector on the front cylinder.

Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Check the injector coupler for loose or poor contacts.
If OK, then measure the injector resistance.
Disconnect the TP sensor/injector coupler and measure
the resistance between lead wires.

Injector resistance: 12 - 18 Ohms at 20°C (68°F) Yellow/Red to Gray/White

If OK, then check the continuity between Y/R wire and ground.

It should be infinite Ohms Y/R to Ground
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for getting back on this.
I can’t get to it for a couple of days; I have Grandpa Duties but will report what I find.
I will have to get a manual for the bike to be sure of what I'm doing.
I had suspected a connection and messed with that but will probably have to remove some plastic.
Again thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Where is the best place to get a manual for this bike, 03 DL1000?
I have looked for the factory manual and also found a Haynes but, I'm not too impressed with Haynes in general, but maybe for this bike it is OK.
Any comments or help would be great.
Thanks
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #6
Well it is looking like it is a Injector Malfunction

• Check the injector coupler for loose or poor contacts.
If OK, then measure the injector resistance……OK• Disconnect the TP sensor/injector coupler and measure
the resistance between lead wires….OK 15.85 Ohms…(58°F)• Injector resistance: 12 - 18 Ohms at 20°C (68°F) Yellow/Red to Gray/White
• If OK, then check the continuity between Y/R wire and ground. Failed• It should be infinite Ohms Y/R to Ground
No continuity registers between Y/R and ground
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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No continuity is the same as infinite resistance. Your injector passed the tests.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have to admit that I’m having a problem understanding the next step.
Checking for Gr/W, Gr/B, or Y/R wire open or shorted to ground, poor (5), (6) or (28) connection.


“AH Poo” I’m looking at a electric schematic for a 04 DL650.
Back up and punt…. OK

Plotting out a 03 DL1000 as I type, but still not sure that I know how to be testing for the above.
Is the battery in or out when I do the testing?

I assumed that I’m testing for continuity.

I did find that the PO had installed a Power Commander III.

Also the secondary throttle plates are gone.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Stick to Gr/W and Y/R. Gr/B is for the #2 injector. You are disconnecting the injector from the main harness so the battery is not involved. Based on your reported results, the injector passed the tests but that doesn't prove the injector is okay. It may be stuck mechanically but pass the electrical tests. One thing you can do is swap the injectors and see if the trouble code stays with #1 or moves to #2. If it stays, the problem is in the ECM or the wiring between the ECM and the #1 injector. If it moves to #2, the problem is in the injector.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It occurs to me the problem is more likely to be in the wiring to the front injector. The trouble code is detected electrically and the system may not even be able to detect a sticking injector. It's not impossible though. I'm only thinking about more likely v. less likely.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Stick to Gr/W and Y/R. Gr/B is for the #2 injector. You are disconnecting the injector from the main harness so the battery is not involved. Based on your reported results, the injector passed the tests but that doesn't prove the injector is okay. It may be stuck mechanically but pass the electrical tests. One thing you can do is swap the injectors and see if the trouble code stays with #1 or moves to #2. If it stays, the problem is in the ECM or the wiring between the ECM and the #1 injector. If it moves to #2, the problem is in the injector.
OK, I got that the Gr/B is for the #2 injector so I wasn't checking that one.
There is a connector about 8" from the injectors which is good. That is where the PCIII is plugged in. Everything seems clean and ws snapped together good (no problems).
I tested it with the PCIII plugged into the system and with the stock wiring and everything checkes out, so I will pull the injectors and switch them.
While I have the #1 out , is there a way to clean it?

I have not pulled the injectors on one of these before.
Is there anything to watch out for?
I may not get to this today however.
Thanks again Pat.

Will have to get new O-Rings when switching injectors?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I haven't ever removed an injector do I don't know off the top of my head. Since it happened after replacing the battery, look around there. The ECM is right next to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That was one of the first areas I checked. Can't see any thing unusal around there.
that is were the PCIII gets it's power, that lead looks good.

I should back up a little on this.
Last fall I parked the bike for this friend, in a new heated shop, put a battery tender on the bike, and kissed it good night.
That was the first time I had ever rode his bike. I thought it was running rough but he said it was like like that when he bought it 3 months earlier.

When I brought it out of it's winter knap it would not start. no lights nothing but when I put a tester on the battery it was at 12.8 volts. I then turned on the key and it dropped to 1.3 volts.
Got a new battery and that is when it would crank away but not start and after just a couple of sec. the red light started flashing so I put it in dealer mode and came up with C-32
 

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What was learned from this, okay I understand that some people have to play with things to make them their own. But when it comes to trouble shooting a problem it is best to go back to the stock configuration so you know what it is you are dealing with. Then there is no guessing does it work or not.

I have run my DL1000 over 100,000 Km's stock the only mod I just did is to bypass the fuel filter. When she runs sweet as it does most of the time it's a fun bike. Why fool with a good thing.
 

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Fuel Injection FI c32 C33 Powercomander

I had a C32 fault as I pulled in my driveway Aug 27 2014. I read the dealer code (2003 DL1000) as a front injector. checked connections and while doing so notice blinking on the PCIII. Blinking on other electronics in my past means an issue. I chased connectors to no success. Decided to unplug Powercommander and plug in ECM. Fired up immediately. See ya PCIII. Coughed at 3-4k rpm anyway.
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C32 Fault

I learned the same thing. 2003 DL1000 died near driveway. C32 fault tied to diagnose and a C33 followed. I assumed that's nonsense. 2 injectors failing is unlikely as finding a date in Afganistan. Chased connections, changed weak battery then saw Powercommander lighs blink out of the corner of my eye and go to "baseline". Disconnected Powercommander and went direct ECM. Fired immediately! I'll run it after some sleep. It coughed at 3-4k rpm anyway so I avoided that range and ran high 3000rpm plus.
 
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