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Discussion Starter #1
I was thinking about picking this crashed V-Strom DL 1000 up on Monday and was wanting to know from you guys familiar with this bike what questions I have not asked that I should and what you think I should watch out for. Any advise would be great. I am used to working on bikes and currently ride a KLR I just don't know anything about the Strom yet. I promise to start reading! Thanks! And Please don't any of you go get it while I am stuck at work this weekend!:furious:

Link: 2002 Suzuki V Strom / DL-1000 (damaged)

This is the e-mail correspondence I have had so far with the guy.

Me:
I am interested in the bike but would like to know what it will need to fix the crash damage and speed and type of crash it was involved with. The only thing I can see from the pics is the broken wheel and scratched plastics. How many miles? Is the engine and tranny operating OK? Has the bike been listed as totaled with DMV or insurance? Salvage title? Please give me more details.


Him:
An Olds Bravada jumped in front of me an hit the brakes which broke the wheel and the bike went down on concrete at about 50. The damage photos I provided are the worst stuff I can find on it. Broken front fender, scraped up pegs, bar ends and mirrors. Bag on that side kept the damage down and it evidently slid on only the left side and didn't flip. 28,000 miles and change. Not salvage title and not listed anywhere as totalled to the best of my knowledge. No damage to the engine from the crash, so it ran the last I checked it out, but that's been awhile and I haven't tried to start it since June. Too busy to mess with it. I intended to fix it over the winter, but I need the money for more pressing things and I will miss it.

Me:
How are the forks after the crash? And did you keep up with all the scheduled and preventive maintenance?

Him:
The forks appear to be fine. The left one has a slight rash at the lower end of the tube, like a pencil eraser used for the first time. All normal maintenance performed. New chain and sprockets last season. Regular oil changes with Mobil1. Almost new rear Avon on the rear and even newer Avon on the front. I've always kept it in my garage and covered it at work, and you can tell to look at it.

Me:
Based on the info you are providing would I be correct in saying that if we put a new front wheel on it it would be rideable and that all other damage is cosmetic?

Him:
You would have to be the final judge of it. As I mentioned, I haven't devoted a great deal of time going over the bike, but I'd say that your statement accurately reflects my personal assessment of the damage.

Thanks again guys!!! I am looking forward to a stable mate for my KLR
 

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One general comment of note, there were some significant changes with later models that you might want to think about. From what I understand there are more accessories available for the 04 and newer models.

I don't think just hitting the brakes broke the wheel. He had to most likely hit something with it. On the plus side, a lot of things that are damaged you might have ended up swapping out such as mirrors, windscreen, etc. with different options.

In general the damage doesn't look too bad but you need to make sure the frame is straight. I think the asking price is too high as well compared to the risk you are taking. I'd wouldn't give over $1,500 for it. You could possibly just buy a front wheel and shoot some paint on it and have a decent bike (possibly) for under $2,000 assuming nothing else is really screwed up. I saw a 03 in my area that was really clean go for $3,200 with no damage history and a few farkles.

Without seeing the bike in person or with better pictures it is tough to say. How are the chain and sprockets as well as maintenance history?
 

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I would assume that the forks are bent and need to be replaced. Breaking a wheel requires some major impact.

I would certainly have a look at it, but just as certainly not give the asking price.
 

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To counterbalance the "it must've hit something" crowd...

It is possible for hidden flaws, especially in castings (such as aluminum wheels), to cause catastrophic failures.

I've had parts that "should never fail" break, twice, in cars when I hit the brakes hard. Both times were on public streets with vehicles that were fairly recent (not decades old) but had been driven long enough to find any obvious defects. Both vehicles were properly maintained.

Once a drum brake cylinder split during a hard stop, releasing hydraulic pressure on that half of the brake system. The teardown revealed a flaw in the casting which would not have been visible from the outside.

Another time a (cast steel) brake disc broke free of the hub during a hard stop. As a result the wheel's brake was effectively disabled.

Neither of those failures should have happened...but they did. Both happened when the brakes were hit hard, and both were failures waiting to happen for tens of thousands of miles. In my case neither of those failures caused an accident....but in different circumstances they could have.

It doesn't seem impossible that this bike's wheel had a casting flaw or other stress riser of some sort which finally resulted in a catastrophic failure during hard braking.

That said, I'm in the "$1500 is probably a fair price" camp.
 

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uh oh

Uh oh, a craigslist link.

I would talk him down a couple of hundred and then pull the trigger on this.

It is an odd break without a lot of damage in the area....I say it failed under stress.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One general comment of note, there were some significant changes with later models that you might want to think about. From what I understand there are more accessories available for the 04 and newer models.
Thanks for the help guys. Is there a place I can read up on all the changes/upgrades that happened to the 1000 from year to year. 2002 was the 1st year the bike came out right? Is there some problems with this older model I need to watch out for? Sorry to be such a newb. I am trying to learn quick but finding the info is not easy.
 

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Thanks for the help guys. Is there a place I can read up on all the changes/upgrades that happened to the 1000 from year to year. 2002 was the 1st year the bike came out right? Is there some problems with this older model I need to watch out for? Sorry to be such a newb. I am trying to learn quick but finding the info is not easy.
Hi,
This may help.
DL1000 Through the Years!

Being the owner of an wrecked 03 (very close to an 02), I would buy another in a minute. Check your PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, I just found this on Wiki

2003 (K3) Added fork pre-load adjusters. Alternator output increased to 400 watts. New Clutch Slave cylinder dust cover, later production models.
2004 (K4) Redesigned instrument cluster. Upgrade 16-bit to 32-bit ECU, some sensors changed. New turn signals, 20 watt without reflector compared with earlier 10 watt. Belly pan redesigned. Stronger hand guards attached to end of handlebar. New adjustable windscreen design. Left handlebar switch incorporates flash-to-pass & emergency blinkers (EU models already had this). Stronger handlebars. Revised Mirrors for less mirror breakage.
2005 (K5) Silver Frame revised to Black frame. Black rear frame covers vs previously fairing color. New quiet clutch cover. Headlight interrupt when starting.
2007 (K7) New clear turn signal lenses and new swingarm pivot covers.


It does look like the older 2002 is missing some nice options but I would imagine that after riding my 93 KLR 650 for the last few years it would still seem like a huge upgrade. Not that my KLR is going anywhere. With both I think I would have the best of both worlds. One for dirt days one for street but both capable of the transition when needed.

This purchase is prompted as a solution to my constant urge to go put a deposit down for that new $14K 1200 Yamaha Super Tenere. The cheap side of me wont let me do it but I still want a new/bigger bike.
 

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Where are the craigslist police? That link is clearly a threat to the forum :angel_26:
 

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If you run heated gear/grips, the bigger alternator would be nice. Living in Colorado you'll need to decide that one but I know where I'd land. If you go with it and want to add a lot of accessories that need some power, get the Eastern Beaver headlight cut-out to free up about 55 watts or so.

Get some Aprilia Tuono mirros to replace the stock damaged ones (I'd be glad to sell you my old stock mirrors :) ) and cruise fleabay to get the parts to make it whole again.

As for the possible casting flaw, I'd prefer to believe (for my own sanity) that it was an impact. I'd hate to think of my wheel failing under load while braking from 100 mph into a turn. That would tend to ruin my day... I agree that there is a slim chance and I have seen it on other items but I'd hope Suzuki had better QC than this. I would have thought the wheel would have locked up first and then no more torque would have been on the wheel.
 

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"No damage to the engine from the crash, so it ran the last I checked it out, but that's been awhile and I haven't tried to start it since June. Too busy to mess with it."

If it were me, I would start the bike up and tell an interested buyer that the bike is currently running. It shouldn't be too much effort so he probably hasn't looked the thing over much.
 

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I'd not go any where near that thing. Why take such a risk when you can buy a used bike, in good condition for not much more, and that has not been crashed? As others have pointed out, there is much more you have to dig into. Is the frame straight? Are the forks okay (if not, you are going to spend beaucoup big bucks to replace them)? Why did his insurance company not pay to have it repaired? Walk away. There will be too many headaches. Unless you are mechanically inclined and skilled, and have the time and desire to do all the work, I think you would be best off looking at something else.
 

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Why did his insurance company not pay to have it repaired?
I don't think this is a worthwhile question.

First, it's an old bike and many of us don't insure old bikes (except liability). Second (and the why of the first), insurance is very quick to total motorcycles.

Retail value on this bike is about $4000. That means any repair that costs over $2800 will result in the bike being totaled.

Just tallying prices from the lousy pictures in the ad, I suspect a shop found over $2500 in damaged parts. Some functional (wheel), some cosmetic (scratches), and probably some parts that you or I might repair but a shop is going to replace. Add shop labor and just about any insurance company is going to total the bike. Even if the guy had comp/collision coverage, he can do that math as easily as any of us and decide not to involve his insurance company and spoil the bike's title forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I GOT IT!

So I bought the Bike today. I got it for $1400 and I got more of the story. He did rear end a SUV. It seems this is a result af a little road rage between the two.:argue: Both were on the freeway when they started getting into it. In the end the SUV merged into the bikers lane pinching him into the wall. He hit the breaks to avoid the pinch and got behind the SUV then the SUV locked them up and he rear ended the SUV. Here is what I found damage wise.

First my biggest concern was the forks. They seem straight as far as I can tell. I guess only time will truly tell.

The front wheel is the biggest problem and is badly broken. Two of the 3 spokes are broken and it is cocked to an angle so much that it is hard to turn because one section of the tire hits the forks.




The up side is that the brake rotors both run true during front wheel rotation.


I think the I will just recut the front of the front fender to give it a cleaner but a little shorter look.


The radiator has a slight bow to it however it does not leak and I think I will be able to use it as is. The cap still comes off and the bikes did not seem to get hot while running.


The scratching is pretty much all on the right side and seems to be mostly cosmetic. The rear box took a lot of it and the rear brake peddle took some to along with the bars and Right front fender. Most of this is cosmetic or easy to fix.










It seems to run good and idled at about 1600 RPM. At first I thought it seemed a little rattly but This seemed to smooth out. I also do not know how these bikes sound normally. I was worried when I got it that I may have cluch problems due to the cluch not having any brake fluid in it and therefore not functioning. It seems that all it needed was more fluid and to be primed and the cluch seems to work fine now. It seems odd the system was empty, any ideas how this might have happened? It does not seem to be leaking since I refilled it.:confused:



All and all I am pretty happy with my buy. I hope to have it running for under $2K which I think is pretty good considering that the guy I just got it from paid $7300 for it 2 years ago (shows it on the title).





 

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Well, if 2k is what fixing it will cost, then maybe you did fine. Replace the front wheel (it's obviously dangerous) and ride it. You'll know pretty quick if the forks/frame are out. I've ridden a bike (Vulcan 1500) with the forks tweaked, but not dangerous, and it's "off" but not an immediate concern. You can either repaint the plastics yourself, or order new ones. If you want new parts, try "houseofmotorcycles[dot]com". They have a nice part lookup tool, and you won't have to pay the dealer "mark-up book" price.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, if 2k is what fixing it will cost, then maybe you did fine.
I mean under $2K total including the $1400 I already paid. I honestly think at this point I can put a new/used front rim on it and it will likely be good to go. The body work I will probably leave as is. I may do some painting to clean it up but honestly I don't really care I think it looks fine. If I do decide to paint it, it will probably just be some rattle can job. I got this bike to use not look pretty!:yesnod:
 

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"An Olds Bravada jumped in front of me an hit the brakes"

"The check is in the mail."

"Of course I'll still respect you in the morning."

Etc. etc. etc. The seller is a lying putz.
 

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So I bought the Bike today. I got it for $1400 and I got more of the story. He did rear end a SUV.

(T)he guy I just got it from paid $7300 for it 2 years ago (shows it on the title).
He paid $7,300.00 in 2008 for a (at the time) six year old DL1000? This guy was a putz in more ways than one.

Good luck with the restoration project, MedicDB.
 
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