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Broken oil pump?

4446 Views 23 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  bullmoose
Just took my bike for a short ride today since there hasn't been time/good weather since December, and almost home before the oil light comes on. Bike sounded okay but I stopped the engine and looked in the sight glass. Oil is full. Started again, still showing oil light, so leaned over and noticed oil was still nearly full in the sight glass with the engine running, and there were bubbles showing frequently.

I'm guessing this is an oil pump failure of some sort but looking for anyone's thoughts on other things I might check first. I know sometimes there may be sensor issues, but it's the visible oil in the sight glass while engine is running that has me thinking the sensor is telling the truth about low oil pressure.

Anyone seen this before?
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There is a bigger chance it could be the pressure switch or the wires going to the pressure switch.

The switch will go to ground to get the light on, so if the wire hits ground it will light up.

You would need to pull the switch and check for oil pressure or take the risk and replace/swap the switch and try again.

Bubbles are normal, the crank, gears & shafts stir up the oil.
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Oil pressure switch (16)
White Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Hood Engineering

You could perhaps not fully remove the pressure switch and start the motor. If the seeping oil flow is unchanged you have a rare pump problem. If the oil squirts out, you have an electrical or pressure sensor issue.
Do it outside. 😉
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What year is your bike? It is most likely just a bad pressure sensor but if the oil pressure really is low you want to avoid starting the engine. I've never looked at the oil fill window with the engine running but I can run that test tomorrow on my 2007 Wee if that will help.
Started again, still showing oil light, so leaned over and noticed oil was still nearly full in the sight glass with the engine running,
That is unusual.
Oil pump failures are kind of unheard of here. Electrical issues are certainly possible, i.e. bad pressure switch or compromised wiring.
If I remember right, many years ago I think I had the same issue on my 2004 Wee and Graywolf told me that the red light coming on may be a general warning light because there is an issue with the main plug going into the instrument panel. This may be completely wrong for your case but did you work on the bike recently and by chance disconnected the main electrical coupler or the instrument panel. In my case the instrument panel connector was not seated properly.
See if this thread helps:
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That is unusual.
That's what I thought, too. I always noticed no oil in the sight glass with the engine running and I assume that's the indication the oil pump is doing its job successfully.
Oil pressure switch (16)
View attachment 312934
You could perhaps not fully remove the pressure switch and start the motor. If the seeping oil flow is unchanged you have a rare pump problem. If the oil squirts out, you have an electrical or pressure sensor issue.
Do it outside. 😉
Interesting, thanks. I will see if I get arterial squirting or just some calm leakage.
What year is your bike? It is most likely just a bad pressure sensor but if the oil pressure really is low you want to avoid starting the engine. I've never looked at the oil fill window with the engine running but I can run that test tomorrow on my 2007 Wee if that will help.
Mine's a 2004. On my first oil change a few years ago (I bought it with 32 000 on the clock) I was worried about oil level because after I started the bike it would all disappear from the sight glass. Now I understand that's the normal observation, so yesterday's observing the sight glass full of oil seems like a hazard to the engine.
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Oil pump failures are kind of unheard of here. Electrical issues are certainly possible, i.e. bad pressure switch or compromised wiring.
If I remember right, many years ago I think I had the same issue on my 2004 Wee and Graywolf told me that the red light coming on may be a general warning light because there is an issue with the main plug going into the instrument panel. This may be completely wrong for your case but did you work on the bike recently and by chance disconnected the main electrical coupler or the instrument panel. In my case the instrument panel connector was not seated properly.
See if this thread helps:
Thanks for the suggestion. I had read that thread but it didn't seem to match up with what I experienced yesterday. I will be checking the electrical side of the issue more thoroughly as I investigate further.
What kind of thread is that pressure switch? Pipe thread, straight thread with “o” ring boss.Pipe thread would be easy to remove fitting,put in a barbed fitting& attach hose & put end into large jug to test flow.Be ready to turn engine off(2 person job!).Flow established,install a pressure gauge into that port.
All to be done in a brief time to negate any possible damage.Bubbles in oil if on the foamy side of bubbles sounds like air being introduced internally.Really over thinking this!

Best of luck to you.
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Pipe thread would be easy to remove fitting, put in a barbed fitting & attach hose & put end into large jug to test flow. Be ready to turn engine off (2 person job!). Flow established, install a pressure gauge into that port. All to be done in a brief time to negate any possible damage.
It is not necessary to start the engine and ill-advised if low oil pressure is the issue.

I once pulled my clutch plunger and counter-shaft seals for replacement and while waiting for parts decided to do check the valves. When I just manually rotated the fly wheel to set the alignment marks, oil flowed out of the engine from those shafts, so it should not take much to confirm the pump is working.

You could do this with just the starter If you unplug the crank position sensor. The engine will crank but not start. The two wire black connector with green/white wires is on the right side of the bike by the R/R behind the V engine bracket. Cranking without starting should be plenty to prove the pump is working without risking engine damage.
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I had water/mud slurry leak past the rubber boot covering the oil pressure sensor shorting it to ground and turning on the light. The boot appeared to have shrunk over time and where it went around the single wire it was loose enough to allow water through.

Simply cleaned and dried it out and sealed the wire entry with silicone.
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I just checked on my 18 1000 and upon starting(On centerstand) the sight glass went from full to nothing in about 10 sec. If yours is not going down upon start-up I would be pulling the side case off and find out for sure whats up. $20 for the gasket, but peace of mind is worth it.
PS- my waterpump seal went out at 70 something mi. Would be a good time to freshen that too.
I think it depends on engine temp.
Cold engine....no oil in sight glass
Hot engine.......oil in sight glass
Guess I'll have to check again after it at temp.
Is it possible the bypass valve in the filter has failed or is pulsating?
Perhaps change the filter (can't believe I'm suggesting replacing something prematurely) and see if the problem goes away.
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I think it depends on engine temp.
Cold engine....no oil in sight glass
Hot engine.......oil in sight glass
Oil level when cold should be between the two marks on the sight glass, ideally near the top one. When warm or hot it may show over the top mark; this is normal. While running, there will be no oil showing; normal. If there is none showing when the engine is off and cold, add enough oil of the same viscosity to bring the level up to between the marks.
Oil level when cold should be between the two marks on the sight glass, ideally near the top one. When warm or hot it may show over the top mark; this is normal. While running, there will be no oil showing; normal. If there is none showing when the engine is off and cold, add enough oil of the same viscosity to bring the level up to between the marks.
I should clarify that I meant with the engine running.
On cold startup, the oil being colder and thicker it will disappear from the sight glass as it runs back from the top of the engine slower.
Once the engine is warmed up it will run back fast enough to see some in the sight glass.
At least that what happens with both my V2 1000 and my DR650.
Is it possible the bypass valve in the filter has failed or is pulsating?
Perhaps change the filter (can't believe I'm suggesting replacing something prematurely) and see if the problem goes away.
Wow! I don't think I would ever have thought about the bypass valve in the oil filter failing, but sure enough when I replaced the filter and started the engine today it only took about 3 revolutions before I heard the engine run smooth as the oil was now able to get to all the parts.

Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions, and thank you jettawreck for this suggestion. It is a possibility I'll now never forget. Happy riding to all!
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