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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone else break the bolts for the rear rack, the ones that pass through the Rack from the top. I have a Givi Trakker outback top box mounted on the bike. I used an adapter plate which came with bolts to replace the factory ones (they're a bit longer). I was wondering if any of you guys know what size these bolts are so I can try to pick up some grade 6 or 8 bolts from Fastenal to replace them, hopefully they can be removed without too much trouble.
 

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The same thing happened to me after the installation of my top box, they both sheared right where they threaded into the sub frame.

I used a small drill and was able to get them to come out by continuing to tighten them.
It would be better to get a reverse drill bit that will promote their coming out while drilling into the screw.

Here is the part number:

Suzuki BOLT,8X35 Part # 09103-08512
 

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i had the same thing using sw-motech top plate
but in the end it was probably because i got the wrong mounting kit from twisted throttle.
 

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Yup mine broke as well with the sw motech steel rack. if you look the design, the bolts that are breaking are essentially a pivot point. The hand holds of the rack leading to the front bolts are not completely rigid which allows the rack to pivot slightly putting strain on the bolts. A passenger leaning against a top box will exacerbate this as well. I'm gonna try moving my steel plate 3/4 in forward and us the 8mm x 70 12.9 hardness allen head bolts i sourced
 

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Had the same thing happen on my Shad top case - just one of the bolts sheared. Replaced both with some I had in the shop. Sorry, I don't know the size, just compared them visually.
 

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I've now broken my third bolt on my Shad top case. It seems to happen when I am riding on rough surfaces. Just too much flex I guess. Probably wouldn't happen if I was only on smooth roads. I've taken it off for now and will try living without it. I tried moving it forward to reduce the bounce but the mounting plate won't align with the holes in a different position. Too bad because I had the lighting kit installed and it really improved my visibility from the rear. :frown2:
 

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How big is the box and what kind of weight are you carrying in it? I have a Pelican Storm 2400 back there with only light weight stuff in it and no issues so far on some pretty rough off road.
 

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I have a Shad 40 on my V2 but I have left the rack as is, I did not use those 2 bolts to fit the adapter plate for the box, I bolted the plate to the Suzuki rack and have had no problems.

Before the Shad I had a Pelican case that I fitted the same way, it also gave me no problems.
 

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they all sheer off terrible design ...i used stronger shouldered bolts
 

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Yep. Mine sheered twice. The front ones. Then I saw that I did not have the countersunk spacer just under the plate to give relief to the countersunk bolt. Those are on top of the spacers going into the stock rack. I ordered those little spacers and have done a few thousand loaded up since then. All is well now.
 

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Do you have a link for the spacers you used? I'm trying to figure out a solution like that.
Mine have broken with very little weight in the top case.
 

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Here's a list ink to the twisted throttle steel rack install. Look at parts 5 and 9. These are countersunk spacers. I apparently never installed or maybe even lost them. Without them, my front two bolts bottomed out almost exactly at thier shoulder and I was essentially twisting them "weak" as the shoulder was digging in to the nutplate threads. With the spacer, they are torqued properly. Zero problems now. Currently on a 3000 mile fully loaded trip - no problems.

http://d1l4i7f87txqmq.cloudfront.net/Installation Instructions/SW-Motech/GPT/gpt_05_440_20002_b.pdf
 

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A friend has this issue with a Mocheck box. Basically the best solution is to brace the carrier from underneath with stabiliser bars back to the frame. Givi and Hepco & Becker are already doing this. Not sure if Mocheck are doing likewise.

The problem is basically that the carrier is braced to the chassis only by the two carrier bolts at the front, and that allows the rear of the carrier to flex up and down thereby bending/straining the two main bolts at the front which eventually fatigue and break. Apart from Givi and H&B, some folks have done up some useful home made braces. Suzuki themselves have also adopted braces on the later XT's without admitting that their carrier on earlier bikes were rubbish in the first place .

If anybody has photos of their own efforts at bracing please put them on here. Also if anyone has any further links to braces from other manufacturers please also put the link on here.
 

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Rough roads will break a plastic top box sooner or later.

If not the bolts than the box mount itself.
Before I abandoned top boxes I used a piece of hardwood inside the box after the plastic cracked.
 
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