Brake and Clutch responding weird (new levers)

3275 Views 18 Replies 7 Participants Last post by mr2mch01, 9 mo ago

LunarFirefly

Discussion Starter · 11 mo ago

I have small hands so I had to get levers that had more adjustment. Shorties have always worked really well for me so I went that route.

Well. The clutch had been feeling like it was disengaging really fast, and seems to be at a slightly higher RPM which I know is a thing when you release it to help with stalling, but it seems like even with it pulled in, it's always a bit higher and I dunno if that's how it's suppose to be? I just got this bike a week or so ago so its still very new to me.

The other issue I'm running into is even with the old brake lever, it felt like I had to really squeeze on the lever for the brake to engage. Is there a way to adjust that? I don't recall this being an issue with my Versys or maybe it's just set up different but its pretty jarring when you don't feel like you're braking until you're squeezing the lever against the grip firmly. Doesn't feel like it leaves a lot of room for stopping safely. Brake fluid seems fine. The dealership says they changed everything out (brake fluid, radiator fluid, oil change) and the fluid in the window looks fairly new so I imagine they did. Is it possible there's air in the line? It doesn't feel spongy, just not responding as well as I'd assume it should.

Anyway just the main two concerns I'm running into. I'm gonna keep tweaking the clutch until it feels better, but if there's a rule of thumb for this, I'd appreciate some advise. Today was also the first day I rode without ear plugs in since it was a fairly close by errand. What RPMs should the bike be at when the clutch is fully disengaged?

Also I'm noticing a 'pop' in the back like the chain is jerking when the clutch is disengaged, unless I'm super careful about giving it enough throttle and really slowly let the clutch out. Is that a sign the clutch is still too tight?

I just wanted to pop in and see what you guys think. Could be that I'm just not use to it and am comparing it too much to my Versys. Anyway thanks for any help you can offer!

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Recumbentbob

· #2 · 11 mo ago

What bike do you have??

LunarFirefly

Discussion Starter · #3 · 11 mo ago

Recumbentbob said:
What bike do you have??

Ah! Sorry. I have a 2017 Suzuki V-Strom 650 XT.

BackPacker

· #4 · 11 mo ago

It sounds like you had a lot of maintenance done on the bike in one go. You now found something odd and think it's possibly the levers.

Only tip I can give you, is to narrow down the problem. See if you can put the original levers back, and only put those back. Don't do anything else other than a basic adjustment. See what happens when you ride the bike. That way you know if it's the levers or something else.

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Improperly Torqued

· #5 · 11 mo ago

There's a lot to unpack there.

Do you have an owner's manual? It will give you the specs for adjusting the clutch, but some of them won't work for you since you swapped the lever (they give a measurement for slack at the end of the lever, among other things). It may be that the clutch is not fully engaging, either due to maladjustment or wear. It may also be that while you were swapping levers on the right side, you caused your throttle to be maladjusted, and it does not fully close.

Regarding the brakes: I think it sounds like you've simply discovered that the front brakes on this bike generally suck. Especially with shorter levers, I can imagine it takes quite a bit of pull to get engagement. The stock brake lever is adjustable inward for smaller hands; I would try that before switching it out. You also should ensure that your pads and rotors are clean and free of grease/oil, using brake cleaner. Replace the pads if you have any doubt (you really can't clean those effectively if they're oil-impregnated). Some riders also use different pads with more bite; maybe that will help if all else fails.

And yes, the throttle can be snatchy if not properly adjusted and if your clutch hand is not smooth. Your chain and sprockets may also be worn or maladjusted - the owners manual will tell you how to check that as well.

Just some thoughts.

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Improperly Torqued

· #6 · 11 mo ago

Oh, and since you changed the clutch lever, make sure whatever you put on there is properly activating the clutch interlock switch. If that is stuck open or closed, weird running problems (and starting problems) will likely result.

Reactions: 1

LunarFirefly

Discussion Starter · #7 · 11 mo ago

BackPacker said:
It sounds like you had a lot of maintenance done on the bike in one go. You now found something odd and think it's possibly the levers.

Only tip I can give you, is to narrow down the problem. See if you can put the original levers back, and only put those back. Don't do anything else other than a basic adjustment. See what happens when you ride the bike. That way you know if it's the levers or something else.

Yeah the dealership did a full check up and fluid change on the bike before I even bought it. They charged an added 200.00 for it when I bought the bike. A 'Reconditioning fee'.

Improperly Torqued said:
There's a lot to unpack there.

Do you have an owner's manual? It will give you the specs for adjusting the clutch, but some of them won't work for you since you swapped the lever (they give a measurement for slack at the end of the lever, among other things). It may be that the clutch is not fully engaging, either due to maladjustment or wear. It may also be that while you were swapping levers on the right side, you caused your throttle to be maladjusted, and it does not fully close.

Regarding the brakes: I think it sounds like you've simply discovered that the front brakes on this bike generally suck. Especially with shorter levers, I can imagine it takes quite a bit of pull to get engagement. The stock brake lever is adjustable inward for smaller hands; I would try that before switching it out. You also should ensure that your pads and rotors are clean and free of grease/oil, using brake cleaner. Replace the pads if you have any doubt (you really can't clean those effectively if they're oil-impregnated). Some riders also use different pads with more bite; maybe that will help if all else fails.

And yes, the throttle can be snatchy if not properly adjusted and if your clutch hand is not smooth. Your chain and sprockets may also be worn or maladjusted - the owners manual will tell you how to check that as well.

Just some thoughts.

Oh, and since you changed the clutch lever, make sure whatever you put on there is properly activating the clutch interlock switch. If that is stuck open or closed, weird running problems (and starting problems) will likely result.

It didn't come with one. But there's one online that I've been referencing, and youtube videos.

Ah fantastic. I might upgrade the brake pads then. The brakes are so weak compared to my old bike. Suppose it could be the ADV aspect of this bike?

LunarFirefly

Discussion Starter · #8 · 11 mo ago

2

So I went through and checked the wire and tweaked it again. Got it where I thought it might be alright but didn't have a chance to test ride it. I used the sound of the RPMs picking up upon releasing it to figure out where it needed to go, and shifted between 1st and neutral a couple times to make sure it was disengaging and didn't feel like I was forcing it.

And then I discovered something.. And I'm really upset because the adjustment screw for the clutch was super hard to turn even with the OEM lever, straight from the dealership, and I've realized why. It was positioned weird like it was going into the back of the switch thing? at an angle.

There's about half an inch of threading that's stripped. I know I didn't do it but I surely didn't help matters. I realized the screw had come out, so I pulled everything off to get the mirror off, and see why it wasn't staying in. Discovered the stripped part.

On top of that, when I had to pull the clutch cable out and remove the lever to disassemble everything to get the screw back in, the screw that you mount the lever and guards with, snapped in half on me. And I had NOT put any justifiable amount of pressure on it to warrant it. The screw was easy to move.

So yeah I'm a bit frustrated lol. But I think that was a big part of the clutch issue. Stripped adjustment screw and the thing it goes into. I'm going to see if I can get just the part that connects onto the handlebar and not the mirror since the mirror itself is perfectly fine. Plus I was considering replacing them. And the nut that you adjust the clutch cable with. If you guys can suggest places to look, I'd appreciate it. Was going to check ebay for a used one. Or partzilla.

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There's a few other smaller things that just seem like they'd been overlooked by the dealership. I'll get it all sorted. Just delays some stuff I had planned.

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Brockie

· #9 · 11 mo ago

Is the thread in the perch damaged?
One quick fix there might be to wind the adjuster further into the perch where it may be able to grip and then take up the extra slack with the adjuster at the other end of the clutch cable. It would seem that a PO used pliers on the locking wheel and stripped the thread out.
The stripped adjuster thread could also explain an inconsistent clutch action. Adjustable shortie levers should work OK but realise that many do find the front brake lacking in power. There are threads here where some have replaced the OEM calipers for something more powerful.

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LunarFirefly

Discussion Starter · #10 · 11 mo ago

Brockie said:
Is the thread in the perch damaged?
One quick fix there might be to wind the adjuster further into the perch where it may be able to grip and then take up the extra slack with the adjuster at the other end of the clutch cable. It would seem that a PO used pliers on the locking wheel and stripped the thread out.
The stripped adjuster thread could also explain an inconsistent clutch action. Adjustable shortie levers should work OK but realise that many do find the front brake lacking in power. There are threads here where some have replaced the OEM calipers for something more powerful.

That's a great idea! I'll give that a try. Thank you!

Oh calipers? That'd be a pretty easy swap I imagine. Would the brakeline need to be replaced as well? Given the change in angle for the banjo bolt?

Brockie

· #11 · 11 mo ago

Nope - although most take the opportunity to also install new braided lines to take full advantage and feel at the lever.

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Brockie

· #12 · 11 mo ago

The Banjo bolt is at the top out of the master cylinder.
Many of the performance braided lines suppliers recommend equal length twin lines direct from the MC. This requires a new longer banjo bolt which comes with the kit along with new copper washers.

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mr2mch01

· #13 · 11 mo ago

The old "2 equal length lines m cyl to calipers" mod wont work on bikes with abs.

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LunarFirefly

Discussion Starter · #14 · 11 mo ago

Alright so I've been toying with the clutch cable and thought the RPM assist was running because the cable was too loose still. Turns out it's a switch (did some digging!) and I think I'm going to need to do a tad bit of tinkering to get it right. Also learned about the 2 US nickels trick for measuring the clutch lever free play with aftermarket levers. Going to do a short test ride tomorrow for a quick trip to Lowes to get a screw and spacer so I don't have to drop 25.00 for an OEM replacement.

Hey I have a dumb question. Was looking at buying the lever assembly that partzilla sells. Does that include EVERYTHING in the square? Or JUST the piece that holds the lever, and mirror?

Suzuki Motorcycle 2017 OEM Parts Diagram for Handle Lever (DL650XAL7 E03) | Partzilla.com

Buy OEM Parts for Suzuki Motorcycle 2017 Handle Lever (DL650XAL7 E03) Diagram

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I'm referencing #8 on that diagram. If its everything, then I'll just buy the assembly and be done with it. Fixes everything. If not -- I think I've got it sorted. Just need to secure the lever with a new screw and everything should be back to normal.

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Brockie

· #15 · 11 mo ago

That parts diagram indicates that those parts can be purchased individually or as a complete assembly. The box labelled #8 includes all of those parts pre-assembled in one unit.
You even get a new clutch activation switch.
Suzuki 57500-25D20 LEVER ASSY, CLUTCH

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LunarFirefly

Discussion Starter · #16 · 11 mo ago

Brockie said:
That parts diagram indicates that those parts can be purchased individually or as a complete assembly. The box labelled #8 includes all of those parts pre-assembled in one unit.
You even get a new clutch activation switch.
Suzuki 57500-25D20 LEVER ASSY, CLUTCH

Thanks for confirming that. I'll go ahead and order it then.

Reactions: 1

Brockie

· #17 · 11 mo ago

For the hand guards part I am guessing that those collars are not press fitted to the thread and if so an auto parts or hardware store should be able to provide a length of threaded rod.
You may have to buy a meter length and cut a piece off.

MuttleyToo

· #18 · 9 mo ago

mr2mch01 said:
The old "2 equal length lines m cyl to calipers" mod wont work on bikes with abs.

If both lines connect at the banjo, and the calipers want equal pressure, why does it matter if the lines are the same length? Assuming the system is bled.

mr2mch01

· #19 · 9 mo ago

Jus stating that the equal length 2 line front brake line kits sold by some companies will not fit on bikes with abs due to the plumbing from m cyl to abs unit....then from abs unit to front calipers.

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