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Bought the bike and haven't ridden 1km (C12 fault straight away) - 2017 650 with 9300km

6067 Views 99 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  Ranger Rob, 
Ranger Rob
Hi, and thanks for letting me in!

Rob here. Not new to motorcycles, but new to a Suzuki DL650 Vstrom having picked-up a new to me 2017 650 with just 9300km on the clock a couple of weeks ago. I'm located in SE Queensland, Australia.

Unfortunately, it's been a bit of a crap experience so far. I've not been able to ride the bike a single kilometer since I bought it at Hervey Bay and brought it home on a trailer. (I did a test ride when purchasing).

I rode it off the trailer into the garage where it then sat for a day. I started it on day 2 and it went OK.
On day 4 I tried to start it and whilst it turned-over there was no firing and I saw "FI" flash on the dash. I jumped online and quickly familiarised myself with the "FI" code meaning and set to plugging in the jumper for "dealer mode".
Then I tried to start the bike again without success, but got "C12" on the dash which I now know means "Crankshaft Position Sensor" fault.

I googled a service manual and performed the following checks;
  • Unplugged plug from CKPS and tested Green to White wires and got 196 Ohms (seems OK)
  • Tested White to Ground and got 0000 (seems OK)
  • Tested Green to Ground and got 0000 (seems OK)
  • Checked for voltage between Green & White when cranking and got 3.28V highest reading (appears LOW)
  • Checked all wiring, plugs/connectors all the way to the computer in front of the battery and all seemed OK so I sprayed them with INOX and reassembled all.
  • I've charged up the battery and tried again to no avail.
  • I took the tank off and drained all of the fuel, replacing it with fresh, filtered new fuel.
Still not starting, and the bloody "C12" code every time, so this is what I'm up to today;
  1. I bought a new Motobatt and have it on charge (even though it should be OK out of the box)
  2. I've ordered the last available stator/CKPS that Suzuki Australia has in stock for this bike!
  3. Ordered a new side case gasket just in case
  4. I'm going to order a new MOSFET Regulator Rectifier and fit that as well
I know it's most likely overkill, but I don't have all the time in the world to stuff around with this bike, and I just want a reliable motorcycle. I bought this after having had a variety of Honda, Yamaha, Husaberg, KTM and Suzuki dirt bikes as this was to be my super reliable tourer!

Maybe I've made a big mistake as a simple google search shows thousands of people with the bloody C12 issue amongst many, many others.

Perhaps the Vstrom reliability is nowadays just a figment of our imagination. It's certainly not been a good experience so far.

Thanks for listening to my rant. I really needed to vent, and it wasn't fair to kick the dog!

Cheers, and safe travels,
Rob
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PerazziMx14
It can get very expensive and frustrating buying random parts to throw at an undiagnosed problem. I know I bought a bike the seller did just that. After he spent a bunch of time and money and still had not cured the problem he sold the bike dirt cheap.

I gleaned this off another post and if correct the C12 code is not related to anything you have spent time or money on to date.

C00 No error
C11 Camshaft Position Sensor (CMPS) - 1000 Only
C12 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)
C13 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (IAPS)
C14 Throttle Position Sensor
C15 Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (ECTS)
C17 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (IAPS) - 07 & Up 650 Only
C21 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (IATS)
C22 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (APS) - 1000 Only
C23 Tip Over Sensor (TOS)
C24 Ignition Signal #1 (Front Coil)
C25 Ignition Signal #2 (Rear Coil)
C28 Secondary Throttle Valve Actuator (STVA)
C29 Secondary Throttle Position Sensor (STPS)
C31 Gear Position Sensor (GPS)
C32 Injector Signal #1 ( Front)
C33 Injector Signal #2 (Rear)
C40 ISC Valve - 07 & Up 650 Only
C41 Fuel Pump Control System (Fuel Pump Relay)
C42 Ignition Switch Signal (Anti-Theft)
C44 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
C49 PAIR Control Solenoid Valve

As they say when digging a hole if you want to not make it any deeper the 1st thing you have to do is stop digging.

Good luck getting the bike sorted,

P-14
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Ranger Rob
PerazziMx14 said:
It can get very expensive and frustrating buying random parts to throw at an undiagnosed problem. I know I bought a bike the seller did just that. After he spent a bunch of time and money and still had not cured the problem he sold the bike dirt cheap.

I gleaned this off another post and if correct the C12 code is not related to anything you have spent time or money on to date.

C00 No error
C11 Camshaft Position Sensor (CMPS) - 1000 Only
C12 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)
C13 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (IAPS)
C14 Throttle Position Sensor
C15 Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (ECTS)
C17 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (IAPS) - 07 & Up 650 Only
C21 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (IATS)
C22 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (APS) - 1000 Only
C23 Tip Over Sensor (TOS)
C24 Ignition Signal #1 (Front Coil)
C25 Ignition Signal #2 (Rear Coil)
C28 Secondary Throttle Valve Actuator (STVA)
C29 Secondary Throttle Position Sensor (STPS)
C31 Gear Position Sensor (GPS)
C32 Injector Signal #1 ( Front)
C33 Injector Signal #2 (Rear)
C40 ISC Valve - 07 & Up 650 Only
C41 Fuel Pump Control System (Fuel Pump Relay)
C42 Ignition Switch Signal (Anti-Theft)
C44 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
C49 PAIR Control Solenoid Valve

As they say when digging a hole if you want to not make it any deeper the 1st thing you have to do is stop digging.

Good luck getting the bike sorted,

P-14
Click to expand...
Hi PerazziMx14,

Thanks for your response.

I agree that it indeed does get expensive, and also extremely frustrating "buying random parts to throw at an undiagnosed problem".

Having said that, I'm not too sure if I agree that "the C12 code is not related to anything you have spent time or money on to date" as all of the checks that I mentioned came straight from the Suzuki service manual - directly relating to the testing of the Crankshaft Position Sensor due to a C12 code.

The spending side of things is due to the fact that Suzuki in their wisdom has combined both the stator and the crankshaft position sensor as one part, exiting the stator cover through the one moulded plug. In order to get a new crankshaft position sensor I need to buy the combined unit (unless I want to stuff around retro fitting a CKPS and splicing into the wiring, which I don't).

The battery is marginal, so now's the time to replace it in order to rule out voltage drop at starting/cranking.

The MOSFET regulator rectifier is a preemptive strike at saving the new stator that I will have to install along with the Crankshaft position sensor. It's glaringly obvious that Suzuki hasn't quite got the electrical/charging/regulation side of things quite right in the Vstroms around this age so in order to avoid some heat and better serve the electrics in general I made this decision.

It's very obvious that you are extremely active here, and as such I will graciously accept and consider any constructive criticism that you can give me. I am new to this bike and am far from pretending that I know everything about it. Obviously, if I did, it would be running and I could ride it.

Thank you for your best wishes.

Cheers,
Rob
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B
Ranger Rob said:
Hi PerazziMx14,

Thanks for your response.

I agree that it indeed does get expensive, and also extremely frustrating "buying random parts to throw at an undiagnosed problem".

Having said that, I'm not too sure if I agree that "the C12 code is not related to anything you have spent time or money on to date" as all of the checks that I mentioned came straight from the Suzuki service manual - directly relating to the testing of the Crankshaft Position Sensor due to a C12 code.

The spending side of things is due to the fact that Suzuki in their wisdom has combined both the stator and the crankshaft position sensor as one part, exiting the stator cover through the one moulded plug. In order to get a new crankshaft position sensor I need to buy the combined unit (unless I want to stuff around retro fitting a CKPS and splicing into the wiring, which I don't).

The battery is marginal, so now's the time to replace it in order to rule out voltage drop at starting/cranking.

The MOSFET regulator rectifier is a preemptive strike at saving the new stator that I will have to install along with the Crankshaft position sensor. It's glaringly obvious that Suzuki hasn't quite got the electrical/charging/regulation side of things quite right in the Vstroms around this age so in order to avoid some heat and better serve the electrics in general I made this decision.

It's very obvious that you are extremely active here, and as such I will graciously accept and consider any constructive criticism that you can give me. I am new to this bike and am far from pretending that I know everything about it. Obviously, if I did, it would be running and I could ride it.

Thank you for your best wishes.

Cheers,
Rob
Click to expand...
Hi Rob
If you replace the stator assembly then it is a good move to upgrade the rectifier. Where in SE Qld are you located?
Bernie
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Ranger Rob
Bernie_50 said:
Hi Rob
If you replace the stator assembly then it is a good move to upgrade the rectifier. Where in SE Qld are you located?
Bernie
Click to expand...
Hi Bernie,

Cheers mate. I was second guessing myself, but in my mind it's a logical step in improving the original.
I'm in Ipswich.

Rob
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dravnx
A MOSFET R/R is not an upgrade. You want a series R/R. Tons of discussions. Do a search on this site.
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blaustrom
Do you know why the bike was for sale? Did it possibly have the same fault earlier?

Bought from private party or dealer?

You need the service manual so you can test the C12 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS) possible faults. I would not change the stator or the other stuff you ordered. But you may need to have a look at the CPKS, that will need the gasket. I think there had been few (rare) reports of the sensor not been held in place (bolts coming loose or the wiring being compromised).

Have you verified that there is no spark?
....
www.stromtrooper.com

2013 DL650 - C12 "crankshaft position sensor&quot...

I was riding back from dropping a kid off at school and the bike just quit on me (in a construction zone, of course). I was able to fire it back up but it would quit again if RPMs dropped below 3k. I was luckily only a few blocks from home and coasted it most of the way. After getting home...
www.stromtrooper.com www.stromtrooper.com
www.stromtrooper.com

Crank position sensor test

Hi all. I just picked up an 06 DL1000 and I'm having issues with the crank position sensor(CKPS) or ECM. Long story short, the previous owner spent a fortune on electrical add-ons, but had no grasp on basic wiring. It has an eastern beaver distribution box that the PO had plugged into the...
www.stromtrooper.com www.stromtrooper.com
www.stromtrooper.com

Bike Suddenly Won't Start - F1 Indicator turned out...

So to get straight to it I ran into quite a strange issue on my 2019 SV650 this past Saturday. (I know this isn't the place for SV talk so I will post elsewhere if thats appropriate, I just appreciate you guys and am assuming I can get in touch with some knowledge power houses on this forum)...
www.stromtrooper.com www.stromtrooper.com
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O
Ranger Rob said:
I agree that it indeed does get expensive, and also extremely frustrating "buying random parts to throw at an undiagnosed problem".

Having said that, I'm not too sure if I agree that "the C12 code is not related to anything you have spent time or money on to date" as all of the checks that I mentioned came straight from the Suzuki service manual - directly relating to the testing of the Crankshaft Position Sensor due to a C12 code.
Rob
Click to expand...
Rob, so have you removed the stator cover to see if the sensor is still attached? Perhaps the bolts came loose? Some of the prior issues folks had were due to a sensor bolt getting loose (albeit on older models).

See Post #6 on this thread:
CPKS Issue
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Ranger Rob
dravnx said:
A MOSFET R/R is not an upgrade. You want a series R/R. Tons of discussions. Do a search on this site.
Click to expand...
Hi Dravnx,
Thank you. I will delve deeper before pulling the pin on this one.
Appreciate your response.

Rob
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Ranger Rob
OCL said:
Rob, so have you removed the stator cover to see if the sensor is still attached? Perhaps the bolts came loose? Some of the prior issues folks had were due to a sensor bolt getting loose (albeit on older models).

See Post #6 on this thread:
CPKS Issue
Click to expand...
Thanks OCL,
As soon as the new gasket arrives I will be removing the side case and inspecting the crankshaft position sensor and it's mounting.
Thanks for your response.
Rob
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LazyRs
Ranger Rob said:
As soon as the new gasket arrives ...
Click to expand...
You can probably reuse the old gasket... and so you might pull the cover now rather than wait. Also, when I was working on my Gen3 DL650, I induced a FI error by accident, and needed to clear the code after I fixed the issue. As I recall, that involved disconnecting the ECU briefly, and then performing some magic rights with the ignition switch. And after I cleared the code, the bike ran without throwing a new code. But, until I cleared the codes, it would always throw the FI code even though I had fixed the problem.

Cap
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Ranger Rob
dravnx said:
A MOSFET R/R is not an upgrade. You want a series R/R. Tons of discussions. Do a search on this site.
Click to expand...
LazyRs said:
You can probably reuse the old gasket... and so you might pull the cover now rather than wait. Also, when I was working on my Gen3 DL650, I induced a FI error by accident, and needed to clear the code after I fixed the issue. As I recall, that involved disconnecting the ECU briefly, and then performing some magic rights with the ignition switch. And after I cleared the code, the bike ran without throwing a new code. But, until I cleared the codes, it would always throw the FI code even though I had fixed the problem.

Cap
Click to expand...
Hi LazyRs,
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
I'd be very interested to know more about the magic that you performed to clear the code????
Can you remember any specifics?

Rob
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Ranger Rob
blaustrom said:
Do you know why the bike was for sale? Did it possibly have the same fault earlier?

Bought from private party or dealer?

You need the service manual so you can test the C12 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS) possible faults. I would not change the stator or the other stuff you ordered. But you may need to have a look at the CPKS, that will need the gasket. I think there had been few (rare) reports of the sensor not been held in place (bolts coming loose or the wiring being compromised).

Have you verified that there is no spark?
....
www.stromtrooper.com

2013 DL650 - C12 "crankshaft position sensor&quot...

I was riding back from dropping a kid off at school and the bike just quit on me (in a construction zone, of course). I was able to fire it back up but it would quit again if RPMs dropped below 3k. I was luckily only a few blocks from home and coasted it most of the way. After getting home...
www.stromtrooper.com www.stromtrooper.com
www.stromtrooper.com

Crank position sensor test

Hi all. I just picked up an 06 DL1000 and I'm having issues with the crank position sensor(CKPS) or ECM. Long story short, the previous owner spent a fortune on electrical add-ons, but had no grasp on basic wiring. It has an eastern beaver distribution box that the PO had plugged into the...
www.stromtrooper.com www.stromtrooper.com
www.stromtrooper.com

Bike Suddenly Won't Start - F1 Indicator turned out...

So to get straight to it I ran into quite a strange issue on my 2019 SV650 this past Saturday. (I know this isn't the place for SV talk so I will post elsewhere if thats appropriate, I just appreciate you guys and am assuming I can get in touch with some knowledge power houses on this forum)...
www.stromtrooper.com www.stromtrooper.com
Click to expand...
Hi Blaustrom,
Thanks for some good links.

I have read through many of them previously, however it's al good information. Thanks.
As to "why the bike was for sale" I have now been asking myself the same question. The previous owner appeared surprised by the code, but you never know nowadays, as yes, it was a private sale.

I will most definitely be checking the mounting of the CKPS. It's always possible that something has come loose.

Rob
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P
Ranger Rob said:
Hi Dravnx,
Thank you. I will delve deeper before pulling the pin on this one.
Appreciate your response.

Rob
Click to expand...
Poster above is correct that you use a series regulator. I had a stator rewound recently and the rewinder made it clear that the warranty was void if a MOSFET regulator was used. Don't pretend to understand regulators but the advice for a series regulator is consistent.
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LazyRs
Ranger Rob said:
Can you remember any specifics?
Click to expand...
The procedure to clear the current code is described in the service manual, page 1A-15. But then, you need to also erase the permanent DTC history from the ECM. I think disconnecting it does that. The procedure in on page 1C-4
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Ranger Rob
dravnx said:
A MOSFET R/R is not an upgrade. You want a series R/R. Tons of discussions. Do a search on this site.
Click to expand...
Postie Jim said:
Poster above is correct that you use a series regulator. I had a stator rewound recently and the rewinder made it clear that the warranty was void if a MOSFET regulator was used. Don't pretend to understand regulators but the advice for a series regulator is consistent.
Click to expand...
Hi Postie Jim,
Thanks mate.
I have done further investigation and reckon you're on the money.
I appreciate the fact that you and others have taken the time to comment, and therefore steer me in the proper direction.
Cheers,
Rob
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Ranger Rob
LazyRs said:
The procedure to clear the current code is described in the service manual, page 1A-15. But then, you need to also erase the permanent DTC history from the ECM. I think disconnecting it does that. The procedure in on page 1C-4
Click to expand...
Thanks Lazy Rs,
Appreciate that. I think we have different manuals unfortunately, but I will endeavour to find the info.
Rob
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Brockie
Mine is a 2010 DL650 but I would guess the system may be the same.
PDF from my manual.
Rectangle Font Pattern Circle Paper product

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Ranger Rob
Brockie said:
Mine is a 2010 DL650 but I would guess the system may be the same.
PDF from my manual.
View attachment 314801
Click to expand...
Thanks heaps Brockie.
Appreciate your efforts.

Cheers,
Rob
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B
Has the PO ever done any work on the stator? As you know, both the stator and the sensor live inside the rotor housing and share a wiring loom - although from memory it's more like they just share the sheath and maybe the connector, not any wiring per se. (With the right tools you can disassemble the connector so change out the sensor without having to splice any wiring.)

Anyway, this area is subject to oil immersion and vibration, so all the bolts in there have to be loctite'd into place or they'll rattle loose. And for the loctite to work you've got to clean the area really well.

As others said, the gasket can most likely be reused. It's worth to pull the cover right now already to take a look. It could be as simple as a loose bolt which causes the sensor not to be positioned properly.
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