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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I currently own a 2017 DL1000 and I'm on a mission to reduce the harsh engine braking when decelerating. The throttle has been overly snatchy from new and with the addition of a G2 Throttle Tamer it has helped enough for me to tolerate this problem when riding solo. However, when riding 2 up, the effort required to finely control throttle openings/closings and the amount of clutch slipping required to keep the ride smooth is ridiculous. The overly strong engine braking with the smallest throttle close when decelerating feels even worse with a pillion. I'm looking for a fix and a bit cautious of getting the ECU flashed while the bike is under warranty. The Booster Plug looks promising and I'm just looking for some honest feedback into how effective it is at sorting the issues I've raised, especially with the 2017 DL1000's onwards. Your thoughts appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
 

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I have a 2018 and never felt the throttle was snatchy at all. In fact I think it's one of the more tame and smoother throttles I've had.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
 

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I have a 18 also Throttle Tamer helped what little throttle "Snatch"it had. Booster plug make no Diff. how it ran save your money....:wink2:
 

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I'm a big fan of the BoosterPlug. You can find some previous posts by me and others.
The short answer, from me, is do it. Don't accept any cheaper alternatives.

https://www.stromtrooper.com/5305947-post7.html

It turned my V2 into the bike I was hoping I had bought.
 

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I had the booster plug, made a very small difference and was having high fuel consumption in cold weather.

Since I flashed the ECU (Woolich Racing) and turn off the fuel cut on decel, it's another bike. On my daily commute I spend 60% of the time in 1st and 2nd because of the traffic and couldn't stand the decel on this bike. The throttle tamer took care of the acceleration part, but still have an issue when sitting in traffic for a few minutes the clutch friction zone get very narrow, making slow speed acceleration more challenging. I need to test different oil brand/grade to see if it help, but maybe your 2up riding make the oil run a bit hotter and you have a similar issue?
 

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Bully,

Check out this thread.

https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2017/417677-snappy-throttle-off.html

My bike had a lot of compression braking, snappy/abrupt response throttle at partial openings at low rpm- almost obnoxious, but yet at the same time, the engine didn't pull well at lower (below 3k) rpm.

After I adjusted the TPS per the discussion in the reference thread, my engine runs much better. Less compression braking, substantially less snappy throttle at lower rpm, smoother roll on throttle response at lower rpm, chugs down low much better, etc., and it also seems to rev out better too (which seems like a coincidence?). As an unexpected bonus, it shifts better between 1st and 2nd gear- must be something related to the lesser compression braking or smoother engine running. I never would have expected such a slight TPS change would be this substantial change. I've adjusted TPS on Yam dirt bikes in the past, but it didn't change much if anything.

Anyway, check your TPS per the instructions in the thread. It's easy to check your bike's setting, and the adjustment isn't a very difficult task.

Hope this helps.
 

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That’s one of the things I loved about this bike. I use engine braking. When I had the complimentary ecu recall done the engine braking was extremely diminished. I was furious. I would say it was cut by 50%. The only thing they could do to change was put the old ecu back in. I didn’t want to go back to the “stalling” issue so I had to live with it.

Maybe take a look at your ecu and see if you somehow ended up with a left over.

I also just put some Shinko 804/805’s on and the engine braking has diminished even more. I don’t think it’s an ecu result, I think it’s the soft compound and heavy knobby doing it. I am now kicking down 2 gears to brake. So this might be an option for softening the engine braking for you if you can tolerate bias tires.
 

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I fitted and custom tuned a PCFC along with a throttle tamer so I have no snatch but I found for smoother ride especially two up I don't back the throttle off between gear changes.


My brother rides my old Wee and he has been happier too since I told him this.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
After no success with the TPS adjustment I purchased a Booster Plug. In my opinion it's the best money I've spent on this bike so far. It has virtually eliminated all of the problems I described in my earlier post. I do have a Throttle Tamer fitted as well and it's possible that one compliments the other but regardless I'm very happy with the result. The only con I can think of is that when the bike is at idle you can really notice the richer fuel mix by smell but that's about it.
 

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Thanks for the report. Ever since I installed the Dominator slip on the bike doesn't start as easily and tends to lug slightly under 3k rpms. I suspect slightly richer fueling would solve it.
 

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The deed has been done.

I didn't think it was possible to get more torque grins down low. Too funny...

Other than having to lift the tank, the install took 5 minutes.

I can cruise along in the burbs at 2k rpm now... and she makes an angry growl when you twist the throttle down low.

I'll keep you posted :grin2:
 

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Got 60km in tonight. I'm not sure what to say other than this is how the bike should run from factory. I have to adjust my throttle input in the low rpms and start modifying my gearing accordingly. Starts like a charm and still kept its' after market exhaust burble on decel (which I liked). That small decrease in the AF ratio has made a big difference IMO.

Next up the cruise install and then I'm calling it quits on farkles until next year... or maybe after some LED bulb swaps :grin2:
 

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new owner of '18 dl1000 here.... had it about a month....

snappy throttle, yes - largely manageable - but one of the things that has struck me was how much less engine braking it has compared to previous liter bikes (st2, st4s, 1150gs).... this thing is smooth, nimble, & quick enough - grin factor approaching the ducs - i like it....
 

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I’m surprised how many think this bike has a sensitive/twitchy throttle. Ride and KTM street/adventure bike and you will think the Suzuki is smooth as butter
 

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So, TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) adjustments not withstanding (easy if you look up how), the owner options are:
- Booster Plug - $159.95
- Dynojet Power Commander Fuel Controller - $210
- Dynojet Power Commander V - $290
- Woolich Racing ECU self-flashing package - $481.00 (or $100 for YOUR ECU if you have access to the software and USB flashing unit)

1. The Booster Plug just fakes a cooler-than-actual ambient air temp (simple but not tunable and not ideal for non-stock exhausts).
2. The Dynojet PCFC easily allows infinitely adjustable fueling at various throttle positions.
3. The Dynojet PC-V, above what the PCFC does, this adds ignition timing adjustment and an add-on "switch map" button and/or quick-shifter option.
4. The Woolich Racing ECU flash package allows custom tuning of over a dozen ECU parameters/options.

Without much chance of finding someone local who can loan me their Woolich Racing kit so I can buy a $100 ECU license, my only logical option with a Yoshimura R77 slip-on is the Dynojet PCFC (ordered with the slip-on). The Booster Plug folks describe the Power Commander as being like playing with a hand grenade but that's ridiculous - if you're THAT stupid then you were going to destroy the bike and maybe yourself anyway.
 

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I went the Woolich route. I wanted to smooth the throttle response and I have a full Arrow system and wanted to make sure I didn't lean out the bike.

The ECU we have in North America are different than in Europe and Oceania. So an NA 2018 DL1000 use the same ECU as the 2016. That said, when I got my Woolich tuner I noticed that my ECU number wasn't listed and I basically had to send them my ECU to have them read it.

Lucky for you if you want to go the Woolich route, the ECU is now listed in the software (under the 2016 model) and you wont have to send your ECU to be cut open to read it.

Now, if your local tuner use Woolich, you don't have to buy the tuner, you buy their service and they will tune it for you with their tuner as they are the one who pay for the license. Drawback is that the tune is locked and permanent unless you go see them to put it back to stock (they might charge you again). I didn't know that, so I purchased the tuner with a license and then find out that the shop didn't need what I got to tune it, but I see it as a sacrifice for other owners since they were a few things to tweak to have it working.

The bike AFR was safe even with the Arrow system, but they were a lot of fat spot on the factory tune (could explain why the bike sometimes stalled with the booster plug). It's my daily and don't race it so at my request he didn't touch timing, he just flatten the AFR and now the bike run much smoother. If I want to squeeze more out of it I could have AFR bung welded for each cylinder and have him tune by cylinder, but the bike run so smooth now that I don't feel I need it.

Knowing what I know today would I do it again? Yes, the capacity to disable the fuel cut on deceleration alone for me is worth it as it smooth the decel quite a lot (a lot less engine breaking)

Also the 2018 NA DL1000 need a different harness than the other ones (Type 2 bench harness) so make sure you get the right one when you place your order.
 

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If these are anything like the Fat Duc where the use of resistor is used to fool the ECU enrichening the fuel circuit get rig of it. On cold startup these things flood so much fuel cylinder washing can occur.
 
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