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Discussion Starter #1
Welp, it seems that I have fried my "ABS Control Unit / HU" on my '12 DL650 :(
Was working on the bike rerouting some wires and cables, disconnected the leads from the Eastern Beaver ABS Cut-Out Bypass switch and didn't notice that they grounded against the fork until I saw arcing. Turns out the switch is on the hot side of the relay fuse and I had forgot to disconnect the battery. When I turned the bike back on the ABS light came on and stayed on even over 5mph. Did the diagnostics and found I had a code 35 & 42. Cleared the codes but the 42 kept coming back. Ran those diags and it came back as a bad ABS Control Unit. :( I've really done myself in by not following standard practice and disconnecting the battery. Pissed.
So:
1) Any suggestions? I could ride without ABS but I'm headed to Alaska for 2 months this summer and would really like to have it..
2) Anyone have a line on a ABS Control Unit / HU part #55610-11J01? Partzilla has it for $1,382.76 and I'd really rather not spend that much. There is one on eBay for $400, but again... am hoping someone might have a bike they are parting out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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If it is really fried then ebay would be my number one choice. Like Maz says, look for a blown fuse before throwing in the towel. Do you have the wiring harness schematics?
 

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M7, it's a difficult concept for many to understand, but the days of "Get a code, get a part" are long gone, have been for many years.
The code(s) never tell you the failed part, just the area or system in which the failure occurred.
So many times a customer would come back to the parts department holding an oxygen sensor, telling the counterperson he was sold a bad 02 because he replaced it and the code came back. And that's just one of many examples
 

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1) Any suggestions? I could ride without ABS but I'm headed to Alaska for 2 months this summer and would really like to have it..

In your normal day to day riding have you ever activated the ABS?

Outside of an emergency you should never activate the ABS unless you're practicing panic stops or just want to see if it works! Don't even know it's there kind of thing.

I would ride it without ABS before I would spend big money, but that's just me!
 

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Hi, I am parting out most of my 2012 DL650, the ABS unit is all good, $220AUD, or $160USD sound OK, probably $50AUD postage, but I can confirm.
 

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Here is an image of the unit
 

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You can ride without the ABS working. On my 650 BMW, I have a factory switch to disable the ABS. Most riders want it turned off when riding in the dirt anyway.
The 800 and 1200 BMW GS have the same switch on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have confirmed all the fuses are good, that is the first thing I checked.
I used the factory service manual to follow the procedure for a code 42, which is a Front Wheel Sensor. If I did it right it does say to replace the ABS unit. Went all the way to putting 3 1.5v batteries in series to test the front wheel sensor. As long as I got the +/- orientation of the batteries correct and I set up the meter correct it should be diagnosed correctly. Got about 6.5mA through the front wheel speed sensor and 0 in reverse polarity.
Yes, I can ride with out it. However, I am an OCD sort of fellow and it would bug me knowing that it's not working. $1,500 - I can do without it. $400 I'm on the fence. For $200 it is worth it to me to fix and know that it's good. And it will help me with my concience knowing that it was my own bone-headed fault not disconnecting the battery. Not knowing at the time that the Eastern Beaver ABS Switching Adapter ran on a 25A circuit and was on the hot side of the circuit didn't help. Now that I know I will know better. Am also redoing the cut-out switch to interrupt the signal on the O/Y wire for a low am circuit rather than a high amp circuit will help ease my mind. I'll also be able to turn it back on while riding rather than stopping, shutting off and restarting...
 

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Slane6, when diagnosing control units of any kind one of the things I do is to check all voltages, grounds, signals to and from the control unit. Sensors, actuators, basically everything going TO and coming back FROM the control unit. From your post you've done a lot of that on your bike with this problem. But the basic concept is that if everything EXCEPT the control unit is good, by process of elimination it HAS to be the control unit at fault. Sometimes faults can be set by problems in other areas that would set different codes.
Youre not only checking for what's bad, but you need to know for certain what's good.
Possibly different, but I'm showing 4 separate fuses in my '14 DL1K ABS circuits. And many times Ive had to check for voltages, grounds and point-to-point continuity in all wiring going to and from the control unit. A bit time-consuming, I know, but really the only to be 100% sure a control unit is indeed defective. Did you check the link in my earlier post?
 

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I agree with @MAZ4ME. I would test everything again before replacing the ABS unit especially the wires and connectors. Something doesn't really make sense here. If you dropped the ABS bypass hot wire (coming from the main relay) to the frame or forks that is just a dead short of the battery POS to ground which is why it arced but the surge should not have damaged the ABS as it is not on that circuit. I could see how the wires or connectors in that circuit could be damaged due to high currents (and no fuse) causing a code 35, dead ABS motor. The other ABS bypass wire feeds power to the 25A motor fuse and into the ABS motor but if it was nearby the arcing hot lead maybe some stray voltage or current spikes got to the ABS motor circuit. I'm not sure how that could fry the front sensor input amplifier in the ABS ECU which is the implication of code 42 and the troubleshooting so far. I'd think the ABS motor and the ABS ECU should be electrically isolated but it wouldn't shock me (pun intended) if somehow the transient voltage or currents grounded through the input amp. Input amps aren't particularly resistant to electrical surges so it is possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am redoing tests, actually ALL of the ABS tests in that section of the manual to confirm. Have also taken the Eastern Beaver ABS bypass switch out of the equation and am re-checking. It baffled me how dropping that wire could have done what it could, but electricity does weird things. I have also re-checked all connectors and mounts as I've had pretty much the entire front of the bike off at some point as well as the shock. Was going to do a test ride today but the snow is coming down again :(. Knowing there is an ABS unit available at a reasonable price eases my mind in case everything does circle around to the ECU.
Thanks!
 
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