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Discussion Starter #1
So went down to my bike, tried to start it wouldn't even start to crank. Battery fine, Killswitch on bike in neutral.. after 15 seconds of mental f bombs, I popped it onto centerstand going to investigate, put up kickstand and it started fine. Put it back on kickstand not centerstand still fired up fine. Any guesses as to what happened? I didn't do anything and bike wasn't in gear when kickstand was down.
 

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Most likely the Neutral safety switch wasn't fully engaged. moving the bike around from stand to stand caused it to pop into engagement. I keep forgetting to neutral the bike before putting the stand down, you guessed it insta kill...
 

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If it happens again have a look at the gear position indicator on the dash it should have a "N" if you have a "-" the bike thinks it's in gear.


Other than that the clutch switch is a likely cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Neutral light was on. So wasn't in gear according to computer, just weird... Last time I rode it I did get cought in a torrential downpour to the point where I had to get in rightlane, ride at 30, put hazards on, and open visor to attempt to see...but I doubt that had any issues.
 

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Adding a headlight relay reduces the amount of current that flows thru the weak starter switch on start up.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Adding a headlight relay reduces the amount of current that flows thru the weak starter switch on start up.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
No, the headlight relay routes the high current headlight supply through the relay instead of the start switch. The start contacts within the switch and the start circuit remain unchanged. There are 4 contacts within the switch, 2 normally closed contacts for the headlight and 2 normally open contacts for the start relay. The headlight side of the switch is a normally closed set of contacts that open and remove power to the headlights when the start button is engaged. The headlight contacts will become oxidized, the resistance will increase and burn up the contacts. You can either install a relay to prevent this or you can disassemble the switch once in a while and clean the contacts. I make cleaning the switch part of the valve clearance check. 105,000 miles now and the contacts look like new every time I open the switch.
 

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The V2 only has one headlight so they don't seem to suffer form the loads on the start switch.

The neutral light and the gear position indicator could be reading differently that is why I suggested looking at the position indicator.

The priming of the fuel pump is the most important part.

If you don't get the prime it is most likely one of the safety switches like kill switch or the kick stand switch (only if the bike thinks it's in gear)

If you get the prime the clutch switch could be a suspect, it's a easy test so a good place to start.
 

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I sometimes start my wee in gear with the clutch in.Usually no problem. sometimes it doesn't turn over when in gear, clutch in, and sidestand up. I then kick the sidestand up a little more and it fires right up. I need to clean and lube my sidestand I think.

what I mean to say is that in such a situation where it starts sometimes and not other times it is usually a switch not closing. wiggle one switch after another and it will probably start when you find the switch not closing completely
 

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But it is only plausible if the bike thinks it is in gear.

If the bike is in neutral the sidestand switch will play no part.

If you stand switch is bad the bike will start but it will stall when a gear is selected.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for that Rolex. I never did actually look at the gear indicator, just know the neutral light was on. If it happens again I will definitely check that.
 

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No, the headlight relay routes the high current headlight supply through the relay instead of the start switch. The start contacts within the switch and the start circuit remain unchanged. There are 4 contacts within the switch, 2 normally closed contacts for the headlight and 2 normally open contacts for the start relay. The headlight side of the switch is a normally closed set of contacts that open and remove power to the headlights when the start button is engaged. The headlight contacts will become oxidized, the resistance will increase and burn up the contacts. You can either install a relay to prevent this or you can disassemble the switch once in a while and clean the contacts. I make cleaning the switch part of the valve clearance check. 105,000 miles now and the contacts look like new every time I open the switch.
No? What do you mean no? We are saying the same thing. For the OPs bike it would reduce the current from around 4A to less the a quarter amp to run the relay coil. This isn't rocket science.

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No? What do you mean no? We are saying the same thing. For the OPs bike it would reduce the current from around 4A to less the a quarter amp to run the relay coil. This isn't rocket science.

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The lights will draw 4A whether it is directly through the switch or through a relay. The only thing the relay does is keep the heavy draw out of the switch. It has nothing to do with starting the bike, which is what the OP is trying to negotiate.
 
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