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Discussion Starter #1
2009 650A 45,xxx mi.

Riding the other day after a 2 week break won't start

Noticed abs light was on so I turned it off. Turned back on after a 5min break. Died at a stop light wouldn't turn back over till I put a battery from a 1500cc bike in.. not sure the specs. Bike ran and was good.

Bought a new battery and put it in.
It would start than die after about 3 seconds and I'd have to twist the throttle a bit.

Than I'd hear a couple clicks from the relays and hear the fuel get pumped in and she would turn over but no ignition..

She's been having similar issues since I got it (rough start) last year but never this bad.

Ordered a Manuel so that should come in this Wednesday.

Tested spark.. wasn't getting spark.. but than the bike started right up after I put a bigger battery in it.

No she won't even turn over..

Things I've listed to troubleshoot so far

Sync throttle body

Tips sensor

Side stand kill switch or clutch switch

Set idle speed to 1300

Rectifier/Regulator

Stater test

Unsure where to go from here.. any help would be appreciated. Love to get back out there now that the weather is finally getting better!!
 

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Do you know the specs of any of the batteries? Original, replacement, or the one that started but was from the 1500cc bike? If you have the battery lable, you can look them up.

Spec for the 2009 wee was a Yuasa UTX12-BS. 12 volts. 10 Amp/ Hour. 150 Cold Crank performance Amps. A battery with a smaller Amp/Hour rating would have a hard time turning the engine over during startup.

I would say check the stator/battery charger, but it's in your troubleshoot list.
 

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What voltage are you getting at the battery with the motor running ?

You may not have the electrical capacity to run the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do you know the specs of any of the batteries? Original, replacement, or the one that started but was from the 1500cc bike? If you have the battery lable, you can look them up.

Spec for the 2009 wee was a Yuasa UTX12-BS. 12 volts. 10 Amp/ Hour. 150 Cold Crank performance Amps. A battery with a smaller Amp/Hour rating would have a hard time turning the engine over during startup.

I would say check the stator/battery charger, but it's in your troubleshoot list.
Replaced it with a brand new 160 CCA and my current is 220.. CCA not sure what the other one was.. I even had a beefy charger on the battery throwing a ton of volts and it was still having issues running..

As far as the charging system.. pretty sure that's somthing that needs attention. My battery was dead but easily could have been to constantly trying to crank with no start.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What voltage are you getting at the battery with the motor running ?

You may not have the electrical capacity to run the motor.
Unable to get it running again.. the battery that I got it started with was from a lucky encounter with a stranger..
 

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Magnets or a burned stator. It's three phase and typically they burn out one at a time - odds are it's the stator.
 

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What is the voltage in the current battery ?

Near the battery is a tip over sensor, if this had been disturbed when changing the battery the bike will only run for a second or two as described in your first post.

It is rubber mounted and has UP printed on it.

But it will not stop the bike turning over that could be a bad or flat battery or something like the clutch switch.

You need to start with a fully charged battery before any fault finding can happen, any faults would be covered up by a low battery voltage.
 
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Yeah, you have to be sure the battery is good before anything else. Most auto parts stores will do a load test for free.

If the battery is confirmed healthy with a load test and fully charged then you can do further diagnostic work.

The charging system does nothing until the bike is running, so a fully charged healthy battery should make the engine turn over with enthusiasm even if the charging system is kaput.
 

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Confirm, clutch pulled in, side stand up, cut-out switch is in the run position, the 30A fuse is OK, fuel pump primes when ignition turned on, headlights dip when starter button is depressed? You can try shorting out the starter relay a heavy duty screwdriver, etc. This step will prove that one of the safety switches may be at fault (2011 DL 650 won't start)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What is the voltage in the current battery ?

Near the battery is a tip over sensor, if this had been disturbed when changing the battery the bike will only run for a second or two as described in your first post.

It is rubber mounted and has UP printed on it.

But it will not stop the bike turning over that could be a bad or flat battery or something like the clutch switch.

You need to start with a fully charged battery before any fault finding can happen, any faults would be covered up by a low battery voltage.
I'll look for the tip over sensor.. is it pretty big? And my battery DC was about 13.4 but I'll throw another one in just to be sure
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, you have to be sure the battery is good before anything else. Most auto parts stores will do a load test for free.

If the battery is confirmed healthy with a load test and fully charged then you can do further diagnostic work.

The charging system does nothing until the bike is running, so a fully charged healthy battery should make the engine turn over with enthusiasm even if the charging system is kaput.
This was the interesting part.. I charged a battery and had it load tested. Good to go. Put it back in and it still wouldn't turn over..

Putting the bigger battery in made it start no issue.. makes me think it might be a ground or somthing.. the bigger volts making the jump better ys know?

Unsure where my grounds are tho..
Does that sound like it could be that?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Confirm, clutch pulled in, side stand up, cut-out switch is in the run position, the 30A fuse is OK, fuel pump primes when ignition turned on, headlights dip when starter button is depressed? You can try shorting out the starter relay a heavy duty screwdriver, etc. This step will prove that one of the safety switches may be at fault (2011 DL 650 won't start)
Everything checks out.. I'll try the starter trick.. had to do that on an old Subaru I had..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Magnets or a burned stator. It's three phase and typically they burn out one at a time - odds are it's the stator.
That's what I was thinking. Local parts store said they can rebuild it for me and save me a few bucks or I could get brand new.

Which should work?

Also should I change out the R/R with it?
 

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Putting the bigger battery in made it start no issue.. makes me think it might be a ground or somthing.. the bigger volts making the jump better ys know?
I'm really hoping you just mean a bigger automotive battery when you say "bigger volts". A 12v system will run as high as 14v when the engine is running, but you should never hook up a battery that's more than 12v.

I'm assuming all your battery terminals and leads are CLEAN? You can test and charge a battery all day long with alligator clips or clamps, but if the contact points that contact the bike to battery are dirty, you'll have problems.

Theres nothing wrong with jumping a bike with a car battery. Just be sure you tie into the bikes battery and not any other terminal points or you might smoke something. Also since the bike is smaller you shouldn't need to be running the car when you jump.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just so you guys know. I have the tank and air box off and took out the Regulator but I called local shop and they said no good way to test without having. Working one to plug in.. I've got two plugs One with 3 yellow wires.. the other with a few more different colored ones.

Put my Multi In diode mode and ran the positive probe to the postive battery terminal and negative to each one of the three contacts in the plug. Each one ran at nothing OL.

Put positive probe to negative terminal on battery and ran same test.. got about .47 on each separate contact in the plug with the 3 yellow wires.

Did the same test with the running backwards.. i.e ( negative probe to both positive and negative terminals on the battery. And positive prob to contacts in the plug with yellow wires..

Same reading. OL and than .47

I did this with the R/R plugged in. And the plug with yellow wires was not plugged in.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm really hoping you just mean a bigger automotive battery when you say "bigger volts". A 12v system will run as high as 14v when the engine is running, but you should never hook up a battery that's more than 12v.

I'm assuming all your battery terminals and leads are CLEAN? You can test and charge a battery all day long with alligator clips or clamps, but if the contact points that contact the bike to battery are dirty, you'll have problems.

Theres nothing wrong with jumping a bike with a car battery. Just be sure you tie into the bikes battery and not any other terminal points or you might smoke something. Also since the bike is smaller you shouldn't need to be running the car when you jump.
I'll try the jump and see how that goes.. but since I have it apart I'm unsure if I should put it back together before checking anything else. (Tank and air box) battery connects are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So tested the R/R and was okay but now gonna test the stator tomorrow. Night and see if that gonna be the issue. With no spark I noticed it quite possibly be the stator.. but also gonna try the switches near the clutch and kickstand and the gear selector.. wish me luck guys..

I'll keep you all updated on this exciting journey
 

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The kick stand switch only plays a part if the bike is in gear,

If you have a neutral light forget the kick stand switch no point testing it, (if the bike stalls each time you select a gear that would indicate a bad stand switch)

If you bridge out the 2 big terminals on the solenoid with something metal & the ignition on the bike should crank and start, this bypasses all safety switches.
 
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