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I have an 18 vstrom 1000. The bike has 1k miles on it and has done this probably 6 times, even stalls sometimes. It's like one cylinder
doesn't fire or doesn't get enough fuel to fire I'm not sure. It only happens when the bike is cold. Kinda nerve racking, it stalled out going across an
intersection last time.

Thanks
 

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With fuel injection and an O2 sensor it should be perfect. Possibly some sensor malfunctioning. At least it's still under warranty, (I assume ). Is the 18 model part of the ECU recall?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I contacted the deal I bought it from, the service department said the 18's are not part of the recall and there are no recalls for this bike at this time.
 

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Question, do you keep the bike in a warm garage ?

An issue I have had with my Vee, I keep it in my basement in winter and wheel it outside before I start it. It starts right up, but almost immediately dies, I have to babysit the throttle till it's warm.

If I leave it parked outside in cold, I don't have the problem.

I have deduced that when parked inside, the engine "thinks" it's already warmed up because the water temperature is 40-50° than the outside ambient temperature
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do keep it in my garage, it's not really cold here yet in Las Vegas, probably in the 50's at night.
 

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I don't know how much temperature differential before it affects the running, mine, I keep my bike outside till we have snow, so when I start keeping it inside, I already have a 30° differential, but mine is so severe it won't run at all without throttle, kinda tics me off a bit, my carbed SV650, no issues at all cause it has a manual choke, I wish the strom had a manual enrichener
 

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I assume the new bikes have the same ECU that is being replaced in the earlier models, ending in J12. Several of us have had similar issues with that ECU when taking off cold. Some characterize it as a "puff" through the airbox, or a brief loss of power. With mine it would happen making the sharp turn from my driveway onto the street. Another member found that if he let it warm up for 4 minutes it would never act up. I've never timed it, but around 3 minutes warm-up seems to work for me. Nonetheless, I try to keep the revs up in turns, maybe slipping the clutch a little until it's fully warmed up.

It's a little irritating that they can't get this right (the 650 seems perfect with regard to engine control), but I figure it is a reasonable trade for not having the engine stall at random times. My guess is there will eventually be another iteration of ECU for the 1000.

However, with the new ECU mine has never stalled, so your problem seems more severe. I would definitely take it back to the dealer as a warranty issue. There could be some setting or adjustment that's a little off.
 

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As I tried to install X-TRE I removed from '14 model I sold, to my '18 model, I looked at ECU and it's completely different from previous model. Even the connectors are different, with more pins. '18 model ECU has nothing to do with '14 model ECU, recall or not.
By the way, mine works perfectly, has no symptoms of '14 model. When I had '14 model, it came with "0" ECU and was replaced a year after with "2" ECU. It still had some misfiring when cold.
Again, '18 model doesn't have any of those problems, so you should go back to your dealer and demand to fix it.
 

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As I tried to install X-TRE I removed from '14 model I sold, to my '18 model, I looked at ECU and it's completely different from previous model. Even the connectors are different, with more pins. '18 model ECU has nothing to do with '14 model ECU, recall or not.
By the way, mine works perfectly, has no symptoms of '14 model. When I had '14 model, it came with "0" ECU and was replaced a year after with "2" ECU. It still had some misfiring when cold.
Again, '18 model doesn't have any of those problems, so you should go back to your dealer and demand to fix it.
It stands to reason the 18 ECU would be different since it has cornering ABS and the easy start system (if I'm not mistaken.)

..Tom
 

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2018 misfire when cold

I just went from a 12 Vstrom to an 18 Vstrom and have all of 200 miles on it. My 12 was so bad with stalling and misfiring when I first bought it that it almost got lemon law before they finally replaced the ECU with a new one with fix. The bike was a dream from that day forward. 7 years later on a supposedly totally new engine designed NOT to have the spitting sputtering issues, I am getting it in the first 100 yards out of the driveway! I go from 1st to 2nd gear and then pull in on clutch to slow down to make my first turn and it pops and momentarily sputters just like my 12 did. Very unnerving when in an intersection. I specifically asked my dealer before I bought it if this problem has been resolved on the 18...he said oh yes it's not even the same set up or emissions as the 12. I can't believe nobody else is having this happen and if so please advise if anything can be done. I don't think I can go thru another ordeal and months of bitching with this bike like I did the 12 just to get a brand new bike to run properly. Thanks for any help
 

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it's under warranty, keep bugging them

what speed or RPM are you shifting?

why are you pulling in the clutch to go around the corner?

if the sun comes out tomorrow I'll try to replicate this, damn november.
 

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I agree with twenty

Every body that has this problem should keep bugging them, the more complaints the greater the chance of a fix.

Point out to them it could cause a accident.

After saying that I did prefer the original ECU in my 14, I don't like the upgraded one with RPM assist.
 

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I live in a court and out of the driveway I go about 2 houses to make a left turn out of the court onto the next street. 1st gear then 2nd gear to about 15mph then light brake while pulling clutch in in case I have to come to a full stop. If no cars I let back out on the clutch in 2nd to roll around the corner to continue then shifting to 3rd. When letting back out on the clutch in 2nd at low rpm that's when it spits. If you wanted to try and duplicate it just start out slowly shifting from 1st to 2nd...after hitting 2nd and not accelerating hard pull in on the clutch for a second or two while coasting then let back out in 2nd to accelerate again. It's basically like feathering the clutch in 2nd so as not to have to downshift back into 1st but it's not lugging it like it did on my 12...that generation was just not meant for slow speeds and low rpms. I live in Ohio so cold is coming but I ride all winter if no snow. I may have to wait till spring to be able to get it to the shop for them to ride it. Also they are an hour away from my town so leaving it with them is a pain. But I have a year warranty so even if next spring I will be letting them know about the problem.....now and then again in the spring.
 

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I'm going to suggest that it's not just the previous generation 1000 engine that doesnt like low speeds at low rpm's. definitely happier and a lot smoother with a few revs built up.

to be honest, I think you're shifting into second too early, only to slow down a little more when applying the brakes and pulling in the clutch.

at 15mph in second, your rpm can't be much above 2k, if even 2k. then you lose a little speed braking and try to feather back into second, the speed of the engine and the speed of the bike can't match in the gear you are currently in.

my suggestion, you could try a couple things to see if it helps. stay in first until you get to the intersection, your rpm would only be around 2.5k and not an issue. or if you do need to shift into second, try downshifting back to first before proceeding through the intersection.
 

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Amen on the higher revs on Stroms! Thank you for the suggestions and I will try to find a workaround. To be honest I really don't look too much at speed and rpms so I could be wrong about what speed, what gear, what rpm etc. All I know is I've been riding for 51 years on more motorcycles than I can count and I'm not trying to be holier than thou but I know what I'm doing on a bike and know when to shift up and down and the bottom line is it spits and misfires when it shouldn't. Downshifting from 2nd to 1st at any speed other than a standstill just isn't what I would normally do on a street bike. I also would not stay in 1st gear for the amount of time it takes me to get to that first turn which is roughly 3 driveways. Unfortunately it's probably an emissions fuel management problem that Uncle Sam makes all manufacturers comply to. I just think it's wrong for us consumers to have to pay thousands for our bikes and then be told we need to buy things that make them run the way they are suppose to run. I'll keep you posted on anything the dealer finds.
 

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Kind of an old thread, but I'll chime in.

My 18 is stored in an unheated garage, temp can get as low as 40F (which I realize isn't actually that cold) and as hot as 80F (also not really that hot...). Microclimate here.

The bike starts and runs flawlessly from the garage, no stuttering or stalling, and I can climb on it immediately with no warm up and it's fine. Doesn't matter how long it's been parked for.

However, when I ride to work and park it outside for 13 hours, when I go to leave the bike runs rough for a short time - every time. If I don't give it a few minutes to warm up, it lurches badly, I get one or two airbox pops, and every so often it stalls on takeoff.

It's annoying, but I just let it warm up a bit and then there's no issues.

My theory is actually that it's not an ECU issue so much as it is a factor in heat/ sunlight on the tank, the change in temps as it sits out from 6am - 7pm, and moisture in the air (we live in a coastal / foggy / damp climate). In the garage, none of these issues come into play which may account for why it's flawless out of the gate but rough after being parked outside all day. I also think it's a very rudimentary FI system that probably isn't as advanced as a car's. Whatever the reason, a short - 5 minute, max - warmup solves the issue for me.

I had a Tenere that lurched badly and popped and stalled all the time, even when warm, and in totally random situations. That was unpleasant and unsafe and I dumped that bike quickly. The DL's issues seem less concerning to me since they only occur (for me) when cold and under certain circumstances. Once warm, I've never had an issue.
 

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It is always very hard to explain a running issue with your mechanic too. With my 12 I actually told him to take the bike and ride it for a week as he was also a rider. In my opinion any seasoned rider will notice the things YOU notice once they ride it for a few days. He did and it really helped with my complaint. Since it's November I doubt he will want to ride my 18 until it warms up a bit in the spring. Again it's hard to explain but I feel like when taking off and accelerating at a normal pace it actually feels like it sucks power for the first second or two before resuming at a normal acceleration. It's not as snappy as I would expect it should be right at clutch disengagement. But again, it's something that you would have to experience to understand it and then the mechanic would have to actually have an answer as to why which is also sometimes hard. Yes this is an older thread but definitely worth chiming in on, thank you! If you go back to the forum for the last generation there is a running issues thread that seemed to last for years!
 
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