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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 DL1000 with @25,000 miles. I live in a tropical area (Hawaii) so I ride all year long - but the bike is often wet and it gets salty here as you can imagine. On my ride into work today I was going about 45-50 mph in 4th gear and all of the sudden the throttle stopped responding; I thought in the moment I had broken my throttle cable. The dash lit up with the TC light and another red light, but stayed showing 4th gear. I quickly downshifted and pulled over to the side of the road. Turned off the bike, turn back on and she started just fine and took me the rest of the way. At a stoplight before I got to work I saw the voltage was reading 13.6, and I have maybe a 1/4 tank of gas.

Recently did an oil and filter change. And this summer I installed new chain and sprockets.

Recently I have had the same issue as others where the gear indicator on the dash flips between gears (2-3, 3-4) but the threads say it is a contact issue and should not affect the bike. But I have no idea.

I am not a expert wrencher, I can only do the basics, so I need to know if I should take it into the shop and what to tell them. I know electrical stuff can be a huge money and time sink.

Maybe time for a new bike? But I had hoped this one would last longer.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, it was like the throttle cable snapped and the throttle just stopped working. I twisted it back and forth and nothing, it felt slack. The engine was running, almost as if in neutral. It all happened so fast I was focused on getting off the highway safely so I may have missed something.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When you say the throttle stopped responding, what happened? Did the engine stop running as if you used the kill switch?
No, it was like the throttle cable snapped and the throttle just stopped working. I twisted it back and forth and nothing, it felt slack. The engine was running, almost as if in neutral. It all happened so fast I was focused on getting off the highway safely so I may have missed something.
 

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If he cable is attached don below, the zinc end piece on the end of the cable inside the throttle may have let go. It's easy to check. Just to allen screws to open it up.

Given that it is a push pull throttle it would seem that there should be some kind funkiness with the feel of the throttle if that were the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If he cable is attached don below, the zinc end piece on the end of the cable inside the throttle may have let go. It's easy to check.
So you think it could be the cable? I will try and look for the "zinc end piece at end of cable"...but I have no idea what to look for if it is bust up. Mahalo for the help.
 

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Up at your throttle grab the upper cable (the pull cable) and try to pull it away from the throttle, it should only move about 1/8"

If you get it to move more you could have 1 of 2 problems.

1 the lower end of the outer cable has become dislodged from it's seated position, that means your cable can't work.
(easily fixed by putting the cable back where it should be)

2 the inner cable has snapped and again your throttle cant work, this is most likely to happen at one end or the other not in the middle.
(if there are lots of cable ties on the cable it will be harder to get a result form my test)

If you are desperate and it is option 2 the return cable can be swapped over at the throttle body end but now you will twist forward to go and back to stop and you will have no back up cable to ensure the throttle closes when it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Up at your throttle grab the upper cable (the pull cable) and try to pull it away from the throttle, it should only move about 1/8"

If you get it to move more you could have 1 of 2 problems.

1 the lower end of the outer cable has become dislodged from it's seated position, that means your cable can't work.
(easily fixed by putting the cable back where it should be)

2 the inner cable has snapped and again your throttle cant work, this is most likely to happen at one end or the other not in the middle.
(if there are lots of cable ties on the cable it will be harder to get a result form my test)

If you are desperate and it is option 2 the return cable can be swapped over at the throttle body end but now you will twist forward to go and back to stop and you will have no back up cable to ensure the throttle closes when it should.
Thanks for the insight. I am still at work but when I get home I will try and see what I can do. This appears to be a bit of a project so it may have to wait til the weekend. l'll be stuck driving the wife's cage for the rest of the week 😩
 

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….Turned off the bike, turn back on and she started just fine and took me the rest of the way.....

You need to be more accurate in your description. After you stopped, how did you get to work?
With the bike running "normal" or how? If with the bike, was the throttle normal?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
….Turned off the bike, turn back on and she started just fine and took me the rest of the way.....

You need to be more accurate in your description. After you stopped, how did you get to work?
With the bike running "normal" or how? If with the bike, was the throttle normal?
Yes, all was normal as if nothing happened.
 

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Yes, all was normal as if nothing happened.
Well, that rules out the cables and makes it electrical. First stop would be Throttle Position Sensors - actually no. I think the total non-responsive throttle means whatever it was is common to both throttle bodies. ECU? Anything else common?

Hawaii, hmmm. Ample opportunity for moisture and salt air corrosion in connectors. Maybe pull the plug on the ECU to check its condition. Maybe some some electrical contact cleaner spray and a toothbrush, then plug/unplug a few times, then spread some dielectric grease on the terminals and plug it back together. It might be good to do the same to the other connectors, too.

Good luck,
Glenn
 

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So its likely electrical and likely corrosion.

First and simplest check the battery terminal connections and the main as well as secondary ground. All need to be clean tight contacts.
If you can't find anything strange there check the ignition switch. There were some (very few) reports in the past of that switch causing problems. If that looks ok you need to check all relevant connectors. Several are above the radiator buried behind all the plastic and tank etc. You need a wiring diagram and you need to take the bike apart to get to them. That may be beyond your comfort level.
 

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This exact thing happened to me, but on a 650 vstrom. What happened was the clutch safety switch became corroded and caused the safety 'engine kill' feature to kick in while I was flying down the highway! It could also be your kickstand switch too. These cheap little parts can really mess up your day! I disabled my clutch safety switch for that reason, but kept the kickstand one operational since it's much better protected and sealed up. Anyway, the replacement switches are cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have you added any after market parts recently? Or ever added a FI control module (e.g., power commander). Any maintenance lately?
The only maintenance recently was I replaced the chain and sprockets (in August) and just did a oil and filter change last month. Nothing else has been added in the past year.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, that rules out the cables and makes it electrical. First stop would be Throttle Position Sensors - actually no. I think the total non-responsive throttle means whatever it was is common to both throttle bodies. ECU? Anything else common?

Hawaii, hmmm. Ample opportunity for moisture and salt air corrosion in connectors. Maybe pull the plug on the ECU to check its condition. Maybe some some electrical contact cleaner spray and a toothbrush, then plug/unplug a few times, then spread some dielectric grease on the terminals and plug it back together. It might be good to do the same to the other connectors, too.

Good luck,
Glenn
I think you may be right on the corrosion. When I moved to this island my bike took a two-day trip on a boat (uncovered which I didn't know) and it was covered in salt. I have been working for the past year replacing and cleaning parts to get the corrosion off. I replaced the left handlebar switch assembly this past summer as it was wrecked. I just replaced the whole unit. Maybe it is time to replace the right side.
 

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I think you may be right on the corrosion. When I moved to this island my bike took a two-day trip on a boat (uncovered which I didn't know) and it was covered in salt. I have been working for the past year replacing and cleaning parts to get the corrosion off. I replaced the left handlebar switch assembly this past summer as it was wrecked. I just replaced the whole unit. Maybe it is time to replace the right side.
The clutch safety switch can be taken apart - carefully - and inspected. It would be interesting to know the state of the internals.
 

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I have a 2014 DL1000 with @25,000 miles. I
... On my ride into work today I was going about 45-50 mph in 4th gear and all of the sudden the throttle stopped responding;
... The dash lit up with the TC light and another red light,
... Turned off the bike, turn back on and she started just fine and took me the rest of the way.
... if I should take it into the shop and what to tell them.
You are describing a known issue. It is very likely that you have a dirty or failed clutch safety switch.
This happened to me. That switch is right at the pivot of the clutch lever. It is easy to remove and replace. And it costs about $20. I have mentioned this in another thread(or two). It also happens to the GSXR. That switch runs straight into the ECU and puts the system into limp mode after xx number of minutes. It does NOT throw a particular/specific error code so the dealers often do not know what the cause is.

Make sure your local dealer has one in stock (mine didn't). It is not a normal "stocking item".
I now carry a spare clutch safety switch taped under my seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You are describing a known issue. It is very likely that you have a dirty or failed clutch safety switch.
This happened to me. That switch is right at the pivot of the clutch lever. It is easy to remove and replace. And it costs about $20. I have mentioned this in another thread(or two). It also happens to the GSXR. That switch runs straight into the ECU and puts the system into limp mode after xx number of minutes. It does NOT throw a particular/specific error code so the dealers often do not know what the cause is.

Make sure your local dealer has one in stock (mine didn't). It is not a normal "stocking item".
I now carry a spare clutch safety switch taped under my seat.
That would make things easier for sure. Thank you for the help!
 
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