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So I got the bestem 929 top box as a birthday gift (yay!) and will be doing the wiring for it shortly. I got the box without the optional led running light strip, so I have purchased that from Bestem and will be adding it. I also purchased their wiring harness (with the quick disconnect) and the eastern beaver tail light kit (version 2, which I will be connecting as version 1).

The instructions for everything is pretty clear, but I am trying to figure something out with the V2 tail light kit from EB... the instructions state:

Version 2 is made for brakelight modulators like the BackofXP which require a brakelight input and output plus ground. The red wire is the brakelight input from the bike and the purple wire is the output to the brakelight bulb.

You can use the Version 2 adapter as a Version 1 if you connect the red and purple wires together. These are the brakelight input and outputs designed for a modulator requiring these. If you're not using them for that type of modulator simply connect them together and your normal brakelight function will be restored.

To then use an auxiliary brakelight, connect its wire to the junction of the red and purple.


Perfect! That's why I got it, because I want to add a modulator later, but I'm just not sure about the last bit. What is the best type of connector to make this type of junction connection? I got posi-locks for all the normal connections, but I'm not sure how to do the junction. Should I just twist them together and put some electrical tape over them?? :confused:

Or should I go to the store and get a "posi tap"? Only problem is I don't know where to buy posi-locks locally and I don't really want to wait!! Ideas? I'm pretty newbish with electrical stuff but I'm trying to learn... I have no soldering equipment either and I've never done any soldering. Solderless would be preferred.
 

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This is how mine is set up. I used a posi-tap on the purple EB wire to tap the purple EB wire into the top box wire I had connected via a posi-lock with the red. You can see a picture this in the walk-through thread.

Apparantly I can't link to the thread or post pictures anymore since I don't have enough posts, so you'll have to find that on your own I guess.
 

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So I got the bestem 929 top box as a birthday gift (yay!) and will be doing the wiring for it shortly. I got the box without the optional led running light strip, so I have purchased that from Bestem and will be adding it. I also purchased their wiring harness (with the quick disconnect) and the eastern beaver tail light kit (version 2, which I will be connecting as version 1).

The instructions for everything is pretty clear, but I am trying to figure something out with the V2 tail light kit from EB... the instructions state:

Version 2 is made for brakelight modulators like the BackofXP which require a brakelight input and output plus ground. The red wire is the brakelight input from the bike and the purple wire is the output to the brakelight bulb.

You can use the Version 2 adapter as a Version 1 if you connect the red and purple wires together. These are the brakelight input and outputs designed for a modulator requiring these. If you're not using them for that type of modulator simply connect them together and your normal brakelight function will be restored.

To then use an auxiliary brakelight, connect its wire to the junction of the red and purple.


Perfect! That's why I got it, because I want to add a modulator later, but I'm just not sure about the last bit. What is the best type of connector to make this type of junction connection? I got posi-locks for all the normal connections, but I'm not sure how to do the junction. Should I just twist them together and put some electrical tape over them?? :confused:

Or should I go to the store and get a "posi tap"? Only problem is I don't know where to buy posi-locks locally and I don't really want to wait!! Ideas? I'm pretty newbish with electrical stuff but I'm trying to learn... I have no soldering equipment either and I've never done any soldering. Solderless would be preferred.
You must use some type of mechanical connection, like a connector, or solder. It would be a bit hokey, but you could get a small twist connector that is used for sprinkler systems or buried accent lighting wires and twist all three wires together.

Something like this is probably the best you could do with a twisty:

Trex DeckLighting 18-Guage Gel Filled Wire Nuts (10-Pack)-5449200 at The Home Depot

Wrap tightly with electrical tape when done to prevent it from vibrating loose.



You really should buy a cheap soldering iron, solder and some shrink tube- it is less ideal than a posi-lock as solder joints are prone to cracking from vibration, but it is better than a twist lock if you are in a bind. A little practice is all it takes, and you will have a new skill.
 

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I disagree with you above poster, if a solder joint cracks, it wasn't good in the first place. Also, those twist connectors are code for homes and used for navy, uh, stuff. If those are used properly, a good choice,
 

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I can't disagree with your statement in this application. Plus, I solder a lot! As an aside, a while back I worked on fuel pressure sensors for NASA- they would not allow surface mount components- we had to thru-hole everything.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I realized that I can still attach images just not include them as code. So here's a picture of how mine is wired. As similarly described above, I have the purple wire from the EB version 2 adapter tapping into the EB-red/box-brake-brown to form the version 1 connection.

I really like the posi-locks and taps as it makes wiring super easy to install and uninstall later when you're ready to add the modulator. So, personally, I'd wait another week or so, order the super duper headlight relay kit or an accessory adapter if you haven't already from EB, and just add on some posi-locks and posi-taps with the order. Otherwise, Google can give you some good videos on splicing and tapping wires to, or do what the other posters above have said.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cool, thanks guys. I will probably either go for a twist connector or try a different type of tap connector. I have seen these other styles of connectors on Amazon called "3M T-Tap Connector" (I can't post links yet either) that look like they would do the trick. They are available on prime (2 day shipping!) and sell for about 10 bucks for 100 of them.

Only question - what is the gauge of the eastern beaver wires? 18? If no one knows I will measure when I get home with my stripping tool :) but it'd be nice to order from work today.

Garmooza, thank you for the pics. My setup will probably end up being very similar to that until I get the modulator.
 

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Cool, thanks guys. I will probably either go for a twist connector or try a different type of tap connector. I have seen these other styles of connectors on Amazon called "3M T-Tap Connector" (I can't post links yet either) that look like they would do the trick. They are available on prime (2 day shipping!) and sell for about 10 bucks for 100 of them.

Only question - what is the gauge of the eastern beaver wires? 18? If no one knows I will measure when I get home with my stripping tool :) but it'd be nice to order from work today.

Garmooza, thank you for the pics. My setup will probably end up being very similar to that until I get the modulator.
EB wires are 18 GA. The problem is that the Bestem wires are tiny. I don't think T-taps will work with the Bestem wires.
 

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Gah, I see. How about this type of approach? How To Tap into factory wiring for power or ground. - YouTube

just splitting open the wire to be tapped into, running the other wire through it and twisting together? Seems pretty solid to me...
That is a fine approach if you follow up with solder. You could also get some butt-splices, twist the wires together and crimp. You are already making a butt splice with the EB harness, no need to tap anything if you don't want to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All 3 connectors into a crimp-able butt splice you mean? Like this kind?



2 wires into one end, one wire into the other? Or something else? I do have a kit of automotive crimp connectors that I bought, I'll have to see what's in there. Thanks for the tips, I realize these are elementary questions for a lot of guys but I'm just learning about all this stuff. Want to make sure I understand the various types of connectors, and what is appropriate in an automotive application. Especially with regards to tapping and joining more than two wires!
 

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All 3 connectors into a crimp-able butt splice you mean? Like this kind?



2 wires into one end, one wire into the other? Or something else? I do have a kit of automotive crimp connectors that I bought, I'll have to see what's in there. Thanks for the tips, I realize these are elementary questions for a lot of guys but I'm just learning about all this stuff. Want to make sure I understand the various types of connectors, and what is appropriate in an automotive application. Especially with regards to tapping and joining more than two wires!
Yes, those connectors. Harbor freight sells some that have adhesive and heat shrink all-in-one (I think they make 16/18 ga ones.) The Bestem lighting doesn't use much power. I've done it both ways on low amperage wiring- it depends on the diameter of your wires. If the wire diameter is too small, you won't get a good crimp. After crimping, do a pull test using medium force (like 1-2 lbs) to make sure you have a good crimp. As always, wrap with electrical tape so anything that comes loose won't short.

Also, buy some extra mini 10A and 15A fuses and throw them under the seat.
 

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Twist and tape is never acceptable. Solder, crimp or screw are much better.
 

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Learn to solder. It's not hard. A properly soldered connection will be stronger than the wire. I've wired several parallel twin Brit bikes, and soldering the wire connections on those Anglo-vibrators is the only reliable way to go. I have to say that posi-locks and posi-taps are pretty darn good, though.
 

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I've been trying to search on the 929 with brake light modulators like the Back Off XP. Instructions on the modulators specifically state that they may not work with LED lights.

Can anyone confirm if any specific modulators work with the 929's optional LED lights?
 

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I know this doesn't answer you question, but I have a 929 with the optional LED lighting and it works so incredibly well and is so visible day and night that having a modulator sounds like overkill to me.
 

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You're probably right and I'm probably over-engineering a solution for a problem I don't have. I spent a day looking at the eastern beaver kits before finally realizing I know how to solder just fine and should be able to splice and dress my lines without issue. I do think I will probably sort out a quick disconnect instead of using the junk wires that come with the kit.
 

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The previous owner did the install on the 929 and he used an EB adapter. However, he didn't install a quick disconnect at the case. I probably should do that but I haven't had any reason to remove the case so I may just let it go.
 
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