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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I screw anything up, is it possible to install this without removing the rare rack, I realize I am to attach the plate that came with it to this, it does not look possible to do without removing. I also have Givi side racks installed. Searched for any How-To's but could find nothing. Any special tricks, samller bolts etc..
 

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Removing the rear rack makes it a lot easier to install a top case, just make sure you know where you want to locate it before you remove the bracket and drill holes in it. With a Givi topcase and the universal mounting hardware we were able to locate holes which allowed installation of the base without drilling holes in the rear bracket. Good Luck.....Kieth
 

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I installed mine using the two bolt holes for the factory rack as the front bolts for the baseplate. I drilled new holes in the baseplate to match up. If I remember correctly, I had to use longer bolts because the bolt heads on the rear rack are recessed quite a bit. I used spacers between the seat of the original bolts and the bottom of the baseplate so the baseplate would not be sucked down into the recess when the bolts were tightened. But the spacers have to be slightly smaller for the baseplate to be able to come down enough for it to sit on the rack tightly.

For the rear bolt set-up, I used one of the steel bars supplied with the kit under the openings in the rear part of the rack. Because the front two bolts are fixed, you won't get any lateral movement. The rear bolts just fasten to the steel strap that you place underneath the rack for extra stability for the baseplate. It was a bit of a bugger to work in that small space with my hands and get the nuts started.

I had to take the rear rack off originally to determine how I was going to do this. But if you track with what I am saying here, you could actually leave your rack on if you use the factory bolt holes as your starting point.
 

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I agree with everyone above. I believe I used two of the bolts included to replace two from the factory. I think I used the factory bolts for the rear two that sandwiched the factory rack between the Bestem plate and one of the channels in the hardware bag. I recall trimming the metal channel so it fit better under the rack.

Hopefully these links will work:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oIZLWfy1LGRigzhH9yT2TSZX9Pvnpc_rGfMv4ltLYPo?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wnCnzW8LgBgwXosjOYHTlCZX9Pvnpc_rGfMv4ltLYPo?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fb-B7lx-DI0lhxjLNc-CESZX9Pvnpc_rGfMv4ltLYPo?feat=directlink
 

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I was able to mount mine without removing the rear rack, but in hindsight it probably would have been quicker & definitely easier to take the rack off to do the install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all

OK I think you guys gave me eough info to have another go at it.
 

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I've had mine on for a couple of years now, so the memory is a little fuzzy. However, I don't remember it being that big a deal. Seems like I had to cut the metal bracket (that came with it) a little, and cut the bolts down a little too. Also had to drill a couple of holes in the mounting plate in order to move the box back back (to give the pillion more room)

Seems like the hardest part (that wasn't all that hard) was wiring it up - had to take apart the back fender to get to the correct wires. Use wire taps. Seems like somebody had posted directions that really helped.

For what its worth, the box has held up quite nicely. Well worth the money. They also sell an accessory light kit that is really a nice safety addition.
 
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