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Discussion Starter #1
working on fabricating a battery box for my auxiliary battery

DS42B24R battery dimensions are, Length (In): 9-5/16 Inch,Width (In): 5-1/16 Inch, Height (In): 8-15/16 Inch

outside dimensions of my box will be 5¼wide x 9½long x 9¼tall

a cardboard cutout tells my I have to notch my inner fender and maybe the tail, tightest clearance will be directly under the mounting bolt that is under the seat to the top of the chain guard.... will 2½" clearance to the chain guard be enuf at that point?
 

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I don't know if this would work or not, but could you use a couple of heavier duty ratchet straps on each side of the swingarm, anchor them to the rear part of the frame somewhere (I don't have a Strom any more, so I can't go look at a likely anchor point) and then compress the straps on each side until you reach the maximum travel point? You could then check if you have enough clearance for your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I like that concept, I will have to get some real heavy ratchet straps, I don't have stock spring, my WP shock is sprung for 2up+ cargo, 600lbs total
 

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I'd probably have someone sit on it while you're taking the slack out of the straps; it'll be less work for you if the suspension is already compressed a bit.

I don't know how strong the rear of the frame is for something like this, so I can't vouch for how the bike would act. I'm guessing it should be fine, since the rear area of the bike is supporting two passengers plus gear.
 

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We fully (or darn near to it) compressed the suspension on my V2 with heavy straps when the Happy Trails folks were checking to see if a larger pannier requested by an out-of-state customer would hit the ground on cornering. It's possible. Use a couple straps and have a (heavy) friend help compress the suspension while compressing and decompressing. BTW, the larger pannier would hit the ground before the peg and was therefore a no-go. Unloading the pre-load may help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I tied her down today, as much as I could compress my spring, certainly felt like a hard tail

my cardboard cut out fits with ¼" to spare, I may be able to gain ½" as I made my cardboard cut out an extra ½" taller than need be to have extra room for battery cable to the posts.

I may also gain some with an aftermarket chain guard that is tighter clearance to the top of the chain

it will be an ordeal to actually install the battery, but with a top cover that slides off, I should have easy access to the terminals

 

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It's a little more work, but taking the shock spring off will give you the most accurate results.
 
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watcha

Gonna use the extra battery for? If you don't need it for starting the bike, might think about getting a couple of the lithium ion 'jumpstart' power sources and rigging them with a 12v charger to keep them charged. Most would be small enough to fit under the seat without alterations, and store a remarkable amount of energy for the volume. The charger would presumably isolate them from the main battery, so you could run the aux batteries all the way down (as far as they'll go) without jeopardizing starting capability.
 

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It's a little more work, but taking the shock spring off will give you the most accurate results.
Will it? It seems to me that the shock absorber would compress further without the spring that with it; even if the spring was totally compressed to the point where it couldn't be compressed any further, my guess is that the shock would still have a bit more travel before it was fully compressed (if the spring wasn't present). I don't think the shock would "bottom out" at the same exact point that the spring does, and it can't bottom out before the spring, or else the shock would be damaged if you hit a bump so hard that the spring was totally compressed, even if for just a millisecond. If you took a measurement of how far the swingarm would compress without the spring, it might lead you to believe that you have less clearance for a project than you actually have, which consequently might lead you to believe that your project wouldn't fit when in fact it would.

I think the only accurate way to measure the sort of clearance that OydnaR needed is to compress the actual suspension until it totally bottoms out; then you'll know exactly how much room you have
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Gonna use the extra battery for? If you don't need it for starting the bike, might think about getting a couple of the lithium ion 'jumpstart' power sources and rigging them with a 12v charger to keep them charged. Most would be small enough to fit under the seat without alterations, and store a remarkable amount of energy for the volume. The charger would presumably isolate them from the main battery, so you could run the aux batteries all the way down (as far as they'll go) without jeopardizing starting capability.
I explored the use of a lithium battery for the auxiliary charging system installed in my Vee (see world's most powerful v-strom thread)
the reliability of lithium batteries in extreme cold is questionable, they are known to need to "warm up" before they have full cranking power, I am building for an extreme cold (arctic winter) ride

the Optima "Yellow Top" is an AGM battery designed for both starting (instant) and deep cycle
 

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Sounds like

You are on top of the situation. I assume you have explored various orientations of the Optima, as they don't need to be kept upright.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You are on top of the situation. I assume you have explored various orientations of the Optima, as they don't need to be kept upright.
I know that worse case, I can mount it in a box on my luggage rack, but, I'd rather not

I did finally decide to pull the trigger on the Optima DS42B24R Yellow Top, found it yesterday for $123.74, over $100 off the $225.99 list price
 

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That's great

I know that worse case, I can mount it in a box on my luggage rack, but, I'd rather not

I did finally decide to pull the trigger on the Optima DS42B24R Yellow Top, found it yesterday for $123.74, over $100 off the $225.99 list price
That's a very good price. Definitely you would want to mount it as low and as far forward as you can to minimize 'wobble' issues. And, of course, keep it tightly confined. Were you going to just run it parallel to the main battery, or were you going to try to isolate it? Sorry, but I am nosy.
 

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I know that worse case, I can mount it in a box on my luggage rack, but, I'd rather not
Curious, in extreme arctic conditions wouldn't you want to be able to easily bring it inside with you ?
Have you considered easy access and quick release connectors?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
. Were you going to just run it parallel to the main battery, or were you going to try to isolate it? Sorry, but I am nosy.
it is going to be a completely independent electrical system, the only connection will be a relay to tell the system when to turn on and obviously, it will be grounded

I have already purchased a second Datel volt meter (blue) to monitor the system independently

I will also put in a jumper switch in case I have to jump start myself

I will be running all my accessories off the auxiliary system except the heated grips that are oem Suzuki
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Curious, in extreme arctic conditions wouldn't you want to be able to easily bring it inside with you ?
Have you considered easy access and quick release connectors?
no, reason I have chosen that particular battery vs something smaller is so that I won't have to fiddle removing and installing with it in extreme cold, it has plenty of CCA for a 1000cc twin, I will also have it setup for easy access to connect a charger or jumper cables, even though R&R of the battery might be cumbersome, it will still only be 2 bolts to drop the battery box (bolt under the seat that holds the tail on and the bolt that normally hangs the muffler on that side)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
battery arrived, not the process of building a battery box.

finish product, the box will be about 5" higher than where it is in the pic
 
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