I remember well, the summer evening I did that first tire change using 10" levers. Even though I was using somewhat proper technique, at 5' 6" and 145 lbs., it can be a challenge to do all the correct moves simultaneously while keeping the wheel, the beads and everything from squirming around on you. I was sweating for sure.I can see how a smaller guy might have trouble with a K60, mainly because it helps to have some bulk when you kneel on the tire to force the bead into the drop channel, and those bias ply ADV tires have thick sidewalls and it makes them a little harder to compress the sidewalls if you aren't a bigger guy.
I wrote an article on my buddy's blog here:How do you break the beads on your tires with only 8" irons?
1) Deflate tire completely, if that hasn't already been handled for you by, uh ... external factors.
2) Stick the small curved tip of one tire iron between the tire bead and the rim with the curve at the tip facing UP. Wiggle and weasel it in there until the tip is touching the rim, or as close as you can get.
3) About two inches away, do the same with tire iron #2.
4) With one hand, push DOWN on both tire irons.
5) Take tire iron #3 in your other hand, turn the tip so it's facing DOWN. then weasel it into the middle between the other two tire irons. Yes, this is a little awkward.
6) Work the tip of the third tire iron in as far as you can. The idea is to use the tip to dig into the rubber a bit to push the tire bead down by pulling UP on this tire iron while pushing DOWN on the other two.
7) After some pushing and wiggling, you'll get a little motion but you normally won't completely break the tire bead on the first push.
8) Move a few inches to one side and repeat the procedure and you'll get a little more motion.
9) If the tire bead hasn't broken at that point, move a few inches to the other side of your original tire bead attack spot and try a third time.
10) Enjoy the astonished looks all around.
I think it's worth practicing so that you have the skill if you need it out on the road, but as noted there's a risk of scratching the rim on the inside, especially the first few times until you fully grok the technique. That said, it's one hell of a lot safer than some of the doofy ideas I've seen like kickstands or jumping onto the tire.Wha???? Ok, you're getting astonished looks from me right now, and I've only read the instructions! EDIT: Now I've watched the video. Sheesh! I'm for sure going to try this next tire change. Thanks!!
I've heard good things about this too. A buddy of mine carries one on his KLR, but we haven't had the "opportunity" to test drive it.The Motion Pro tools works really well and is worth the investment.
Loved the Stanley knife method but definitely not for fixing punctures. Some brands of tires are totally SOB's. I have all wayed done my own tires using the plastic rim protectors and 600mm plus tire levers. But there are times that the protectors are just fighting you and you have little choice but to risk a rim to tire lever case. I find that after you do scratch the damn rim you accept it and do not get so paranoid about them. Bead breaking is another SOB at the side of the road so I made up a devise that can do it . If anybody thinks of mounting Hieneken tires make sure you have a gorilla as a friend as they in my opinion were designed as the ultimate challenge.It looks like you are trying to get the old tire OFF, is that correct? It also looks like the bead has not been "broken" yet, is that true? (Maybe I'm just not seeing it well in the picture.) I have the same HF tire changer, and it has a bead-breaking attachment on the side that will press down on the inner area of the tire just at the edge of the wheel rim, to push the bead towards the center of the wheel, making it loose so you can then use the bar or spoons to lever the tire over the rim.
If you haven't done motorcycle tires before (maybe you have so I don't want to insult you, sorry) but the wheel "valley" where the opposing bead has to go to get room to angle the tire up over the top rim, is a lot narrower than on a steel-rimmed car tire.
Think "out of the box" for minute and here's a trick everybody laughs at but trust me it works slicker than deer guts:
Once you get the beads (top and bottom) broken loose from the rim, take a razor knife/box cutter/K-bar or what ever you have, put a little oil or Ru-Glyde on the blade, and cut the tire all the way around the center of the tread. That way you won't have to fight the opposing bead at all. You can pull the upper bead you are trying to get over the rim up and over really easy. I have been close a couple of times to being able to pull it off by hand, once I get it started, depending on the stiffness of your tire casing. Plenty of Ru-Glyde on the beads for both removal and install.
When putting the new tire on, make yourself some kind of little tent that you can out the tire in with a spcae heater if you have one and get it good and warm. Warm rubber stretches better than frozen rubber.
Hope that helps, and good luck.
I too struggled with the HF changer....
They say "hind sight" is 20/20... In my humble opinion, this HF thing is a bit of a P.O.S. first of all you will need a rod going through the bearings of the wheel, that isn't supplied with the unit, then it might need to be a different rod diam. Depending the size of your bearings. Not only that but it is also difficult to clamp the edge of the rim and hold the wheel concentric with the hole of the HF device. The movable pin adjustment suck. It doesn't allow for a concentric adjustment. It invariably ends-up too far or too close. The only positive thing about this thing is the price....
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I too struggled with the HF changer.
I got the Mojo blocks and lever that took care of gouging the rims.
I use mine a bit differently then you though. I did get a steel rod (3/8 maybe) but I don't use the top piece to center the rod. That part is not installed on mine.
I set the wheel down insert the rod and move the 2 pinned blocks against the rim keeping the axle hole centered. Then screw down the moveable block. That way the wheel stays centered. Also I use a tie down strap around one of the wheel spokes and an arm of the changer. That keeps the wheel from rotating while working on it. Mine is mounted on a sheet of plywood also.
Kind of a kludge I admit but so much easier then sitting on the ground with tire irons and way cheaper than comparable changing stands.