[Naltega]

After far too many hard miles on my clutch, including silt mountain ascents, wheelies and dune riding, I've finally got to the point where the clutch is slipping nearly every ride and I've maxed out the adjustment at the clutch pushrod. I've gone through all the adjustment checks from the service manual and had two oil changes since this problem began to appear, narrowing it down to the plates. While everyone says these clutches are hardy, I think my less than ideal clutch use has caught up with me at 50,000 miles.

With that said, is there a preferred brand for clutch plate / steels / spring replacements? OEM doesn't seem bad quality wise, but I've burned it out once and I hope to get a good 100k miles more out of the bike, so if there is another company out there with slightly better build, I'd pay a premium.

If anyone can weigh in on aftermarket or OEM clutch replacement performance, I'd really appreciate it!

Thank you!

 

[V-Tom]

I think you should take a look at the clutch plates inspect and measure them before you spend a bunch of money trying to fix it.

It might also be a good idea to explain exactly how you are adjusting the clutch pushrod in the unlikely eventuality that you are doing something incorrectly.

..Tom

 

[Naltega]

I think you should take a look at the clutch plates inspect and measure them before you spend a bunch of money trying to fix it.

It might also be a good idea to explain exactly how you are adjusting the clutch pushrod in the unlikely eventuality that you are doing something incorrectly.

..Tom

Measuring the clutch plates is something I'd definitely like to do in advance, however since my motorcycle is my only form of transportation, pulling apart the clutch to measure only to put it back together again to wait until parts arrive would be a lot of work.

My process for the clutch adjustment is as such:

-Loosen the clutch cable at the lever (tighten the adjustment screw into the lever assembly)
-Loosen clutch locking nuts at sprocket cover
-Remove clutch rod nut and back out the rod with a flathead screwdriver several turns, or remove completely
-Lube push rod ball bearing track thing (not entirely sure of the name), general cleanup of the front sprocket area
-Turn push rod clockwise until resistance is hit, and back out 1/4 turn. The rod never specifically "stops" as the manual says, just gets increasingly hard to turn, so I back it out 1/4 at sign of first resistance
-Tighten all clutch cable adjustment points to spec, manual says 10-15mm at end of clutch lever.

I generally do this every 2-3 months, but recently after adjustment, the rod resistance is the same, as is all the other adjustment. The only thing I can see maybe being an issue is the lack of a concrete stopping point for the rod. However, I assume if I err on the side of the rod being loose, backing it out 1/4 turn or more well before any actuation, then at worst my clutch doesn't disengage. However, even with that, I still notice slipping under hard acceleration.

One thing I notice is that clutch slipping is more evident the hotter the engine is, and especially so after excessive clutch use. After plowing through mud/sand/etc. I can barely throttle in 6th without slipping, even very gently.

If I am doing something wrong, I'd be happy to fix it, an hour of my time is significantly less than a new clutch!

 

[Rolex]

If you don't plan on changing the way you ride (I'm not suggesting you should) you should consider heavier springs too.

 

[Naltega]

If you don't plan on changing the way you ride (I'm not suggesting you should) you should consider heavier springs too.

Good idea, I'm definitely gonna need to strengthen my left hand before I get into traffic.

I take it OEM replacements only come with the same type of springs. Should I be looking at an entire aftermarket kit or get OEM plates and stiffer springs elsewhere?

 

[RichDesmond]

I would just use OEM parts. I’d rather replace clutch plates and springs every 50k than put up with stiff pull of a Barnett setup.

 

[dmfdmf]

I'd recommend OEM too. 50K miles isn't bad for hard use. They'll go 90-100K miles if you tour a lot (i.e. mostly in gear, not much feathering). Clutches are a wear item like brakes. Heavier springs are needed if you increase the torque/power. It won't help the life span much, just makes it harder to slip the clutch by holding at the point of engagement to keep the RPMs up. You are still wearing out the clutch material.

I have a full OEM kit in original packaging that I bought for my K7 Wee (sold) but never installed, PM me if interested, I'll give you a good deal. It has everything but the bearing ($6) and the gasket ($15). If you go in you might want to service the water pump too.

 

[V-Tom]

@Naltega It's been over ten years since I adjusted the clutch on my 2006 DL650. It sure sounds like you are doing everything correctly. I did remember that it was obvious when the adjuster screw started touching the pushrod.

The one thing I was going to suggest you alredady did (backing it out until the clutch should be disengaged) you already did.

When you finally do have it apart I'd sure like to see the condition of the clutch plates and springs

..Tom

 

[Big B]

Wow you do some awfully hard riding on your only form of transportation.

 

[Naltega]

Wow you do some awfully hard riding on your only form of transportation.

With age comes wisdom, and I have neither.

 

[Charlie1982]

With age comes wisdom, and I have neither.

I'm sure you've dealt with all this already, but for future reference, would clutch springs out of a DL 1000 be a stronger upgrade? Or are they the same part number to begin with?

 

[Naltega]

I'm sure you've dealt with all this already, but for future reference, would clutch springs out of a DL 1000 be a stronger upgrade? Or are they the same part number to begin with?

I did end up purchasing a OEM clutch kit, but is yet to be installed. I've managed to nurse my clutch along as long as I don't let it slip too much on trails or highway pulls. I'll absolutely take photos when I do the replacement early this summer.

I did some research after you mentioned the DL1000 springs, but based on the photos on part websites (being different part numbers), it seems the length is substantially different, and from prior reading, I know the hydraulic system in the 1000's have some differences in terms of clutch assembly, so I wouldn't expect the springs to interchange. I got 50k miles out of the original springs, so if I hit 100k before these new ones wear out I'll be more than happy.

 

[dub_c]

I am waiting for photos and tips along the way since I have to do the same thing on my 650 before next summer.
I was also thinking on replacing the clutch cable at the same time.