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Has anyone ever tried or removed the beak? I just wonder what it would look like. If someone made a removal kit I would consider it.
 

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Were you ever able to find a removal kit or remobve yours? I'm looking to pick a beak up for my 2015 DL650, as I think it'll look a lot better with the new headlight I'll be installing.
 

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It would look like my 2013 650. I use the beak now for the camera mount on the 1000. Generally, folks tell me that my beaked 1000 looks a lot better than my beak-less 650 did. I still call it an angry bird. Ignore the colors. lol


 

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Nice.

I have some decals on order from the UK but they are the standard euro OEM 1000s. Most folks actually complain about the lame Hoover-looking muffler at this point. Handguards and a radiator guard are still on their way.

That muffler doesn't fit with the rest of it. :serious:
 

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I have been approached more than once with people commenting that I am riding their dream bike thinking it's an R1200GS. This is due to the beak on the front.

Now that I have the beak, I think the bike would look incomplete without it.

Love the stubby tail on that concept bike. How hard would it be to chop off the excess on our bikes? It appears the concept bike has no rear signals, unless those tiny little stubs coming off the license plate holder are them?
 

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Does anyone have any experience in removing the beak? I'm not interested in completely getting rid of it, but I'd like to remove it to paint/wrap it.

Thanks!
 

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Took the three screws on the underside off but it didn't let go. Intend to strip off more but it's out in the carport and it's snowing so it's on hold. Try to remember to send a pic when I get back at it. Popping out the gauges will allow access to the other screws.
 

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Hey all. This is a 2015 650XT (beak). While maneuvering it backwards it got away from me and the windshield hit against a nearby object and shattered. The windshield took out the top mounting hole on up and around the corner. There was no getting around it, the whole thing had to come apart.

If you do any work on the fairing, styling pieces, remove the tank, etc you'll come to the idea that there is a steep price for styling - lack of an easy fix. All of these pieces have small flimsy tabs, hooks, and some Velcro to hold everything together tightly. It is all designed to go together "once" and not be taken apart ever again. I bet that the Vee2 will afford you the same experience as I had with the Wee2.

I'm not saying that better people than me couldn't dis-assemble / assemble this all day long but I never want to again.

On another note, TAKE PICTURES OF EVERY SCREW, BOLT, BRACKET, PUSH-PIN CONNECTOR, RUBBER SPACERS, ETC "BEFORE IT IS REMOVED"!!!! There are many silver / black screws / bolts, some are longer than others, some bolts have un-threaded sections, etc. There was even a slight difference from left side versus right on the bike due to a bolt holding the wiring bracket on the left but using a similar anchor point as on the right. I took pics, used plastic bags, and labeled those plastic bags and I was glad 100-times that I did. Even though I've done my KLR engine, BMW engine, even a Volvo engine in the past, the similarity of all these screws / bolts made it hard for me to associate without the labeled bags and pictures. I guess it would be different if I had a trusty Clymer manual but none are out as far as I know.

Anyway, I'd save yourself a whole bunch of trouble and keep the "beak". Inevitability, something will get broken in the "de-beaking" / re-assembly process because there maybe four hooks / tabs that all have to come out / go in at once and then you have gaps / buzzing.

With the tank off too, I went crazy with the Eastern Beaver subsystems, LED auxiliary lighting, and accessory power outlets, accessed the OEM heated grip outlet and the OEM power outlet, added heated grips, outlet for my heated jacket liner, etc, labeled every wire every 1 ft and grouped them into main trunk-lines of split plastic wire sleeves down each side of the bike back to an EB 8-circuit fuse box under the seat. I love being able to disable the ABS when riding hilly gravel roads especially going down hill.

Anyway, that's my two cents on the beak.
 

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Took the three screws on the underside off but it didn't let go. Intend to strip off more but it's out in the carport and it's snowing so it's on hold. Try to remember to send a pic when I get back at it. Popping out the gauges will allow access to the other screws.
I've had my beak off (and painted it with Plasti Dip) and put it back on.

It is not easy! I ultimately followed the instructions in the service manual which involve removal of the entire fairing subframe and headlight, which means bodywork, intrument panel, turn signals, voltage regulator, unplugging wiring harnesses, etc.

In my opinion, it would be VERY difficult to remove and replace the beak without doing all of the above because there are screws and plastic tabs that would not be accessible while mounted on the bike. If you follow the instructions in the manual, it is tedious and complicated but doable.

I would caution against doing it without following the manual's instructions...there are too many little tabs that could be broken. I know; I broke one during my disassembly before I decided to use, and follow, the manual.
 

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I've had my beak off (and painted it with Plasti Dip) and put it back on.



It is not easy! I ultimately followed the instructions in the service manual which involve removal of the entire fairing subframe and headlight, which means bodywork, intrument panel, turn signals, voltage regulator, unplugging wiring harnesses, etc.



In my opinion, it would be VERY difficult to remove and replace the beak without doing all of the above because there are screws and plastic tabs that would not be accessible while mounted on the bike. If you follow the instructions in the manual, it is tedious and complicated but doable.



I would caution against doing it without following the manual's instructions...there are too many little tabs that could be broken. I know; I broke one during my disassembly before I decided to use, and follow, the manual.


Thank you for the great info. I think I'm adequately unwilling to go through that potential nightmare! Looks like I'll just need to buy another one.


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