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Discussion Starter #1
My battery runs down to completely dead after a few 7-12 days of sitting without a charger on it. Is there something that runs all the time or is it just mine?
Thanks,
Barender
 

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My battery runs down to completely dead after a few 7-12 days of sitting without a charger on it. Is there something that runs all the time or is it just mine?
Thanks,
Barender
a year ago I had the same situation. I'd suggest you charge the battery and then when done, use your multi-meter to read the volts across it. Start the bike. Read the volts across the battery when it is running -- at idle, at 3k rpm and at 5k rpm. If your system is not putting enough charge into the battery while riding, that'll help kill it off. If you are not riding it at all for the 7-12 day period you mention, then each day check the voltage across the battery and see how much it changes. Get the battery load tested at a place like Advance Auto. That'll tell you if your battery is able to hold a charge. In my case, I needed a new battery.
 

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I use a solar paddle to charge up the battery whenever it sits for a long time, just needs sun shine...summer or winter

its that darned clock function always keeping the time draining the battery ....
 

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There is a very tiny load from the clock etc. If that is killing the battery in a week it is toast. One day it won't start when you come out of the store/bar/coffee shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did replace the battery and it is ok if I ride it occasionally. It’s just when it sits for awhile. At different rpms it from 11.7v at idle to almost 13v at higher rpms. I can ride all day with no problems,but, if it sits for a week or so it goes completely dead.
 

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How far down does it get ?

A bad battery will usually get down to around 11.2 volts while just sitting, that is a bad cell.

If it continues down below 10 volts you have a parasitic drain on your system, that is something is draining the power while the bike is stopped.

Are you 100% sure you are not turning your parking lights on ?

Are you battery cables clean and tight ?

What aftermarket stuff do have fitted ?

A bad regulator can cause a drain but I have never heard of this on a Strom.

With the bike shut down remove the positive battery cable then put a AMP meter between the positive battery terminal and the positive cable, take a reading it should be very very low something like 0.003amps, if it is much bigger you need to find the source of the power drain.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I do need to check the drain on the system when it is off. The new battery drains down just like the old one, so, something is drawing voltage all the time. I will try the amp drainage check to see if something is shorted or staying on.
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Discussion Starter #8
Parking lights not on, battery terminals cleaned and tight when new battery was put in, it has Denali running lights, a voltmeter, and a 12v switched outlet, no other accessories. Only goes down after a few days, daily riding is no problem.
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11.7 to 13v is far to low and you never maintain your battery with those numbers.

You may need to test your stator or just pull the cover and have a look for burn marks.
 

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You don't by any chance have a tank bag with an electrical feed on your bike or similar, https://www.stromtrooper.com/5264925-post3.html? You could perhaps try pulling the fuses, one at a time, in attempt to locate which fuse line is the cause the voltage drain. Another manner is to connect a multi meter across each pulled fuse and read the milli-amps being drawn, while the ignition is off. The measurement won't be in amps, as you state that it takes a few days to discharge the battery, hence the milli-amps setting. For safety first try a reading in amps then switch to the miili-amps setting.
 

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Do you have ANY accessory plugs/fixtures on your bike? If so, they may be the drain that kills your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The bike had denali lights on it when i bought it recently and they appear to have a small draw all the time. I don't know if this normal for these lights, but, i disconnected them and will see if the drain continues or the battery keep a charge. If the battery stays charged i will probably remove the lights since i don't need them for my use. Will update if that corrects the drain on the battery.
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Lights do not draw down power when they are not on. Also the bike should be showing more than 13 volts when running - even when idling, and not 11.7 volts.

A good battery should show more than 12 volts when not even running - unless the bike has been idle for many weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I agree, but, when i check it with a multimeter there is slight draw in resistance to ohms to on the meter as opposed to all the other battery connections main and aux wires (power socket and charge plug). None of the other wires, even the main ground wire shows a reading except the Denali light wire. I suspect a short somewhere in the Denali wiring, i just haven't gotten the far yet. Waiting to see if the disconnected Denali power wire will affect the battery draining down over the next couple of days. If the battery stays charged up then i have found my culprit, if not then the search continues.
 

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A multi meter can sometimes be miss-read. You could try with a test bulb across the fuse terminals. If the bulb burns, with the ignition off, there is current flow (aka a short to earth). Move the wiring around to see if the bulb goes out. You may even be lucky to get very close to the problem area by moving the wiring while watching the bulb.
Make up your own test bulb by either soldering two longish leads to the contacts on underside of a spare bulb or wire the leads to an automotive bulb holder. The free ends of the leads can be soldered and hammered in shape to enable slotting in the fuse blade terminals. Let us know if you have any success in locating the fault.
 

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I agree, but, when i check it with a multimeter there is slight draw in resistance to ohms to on the meter as opposed to all the other battery connections main and aux wires (power socket and charge plug). None of the other wires, even the main ground wire shows a reading except the Denali light wire. I suspect a short somewhere in the Denali wiring, i just haven't gotten the far yet. Waiting to see if the disconnected Denali power wire will affect the battery draining down over the next couple of days. If the battery stays charged up then i have found my culprit, if not then the search continues.
Interesting. Most accessory lights use a relay which is activated by a small current (around 70mA to 100mA). This is supposed to be connected to a 12V source which is switched with the ignition. This way without ignition the current is truly zero (Relay open).

If the previous owner connected this cable (sometimes white color) also directly to the battery then there will be 70mA flowing all of the time, holding the relay in “closed” mode. If there is an additional switch then the lights stay off but the current is still there. I would say this sounds like a likely scenario. The relay current would be enough to be a problem after a few days.

If this is the case, connect the white cable to the accessory/heated grip plug behind the radiator and your problem is solved.
 

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Have a USB charger port installed, does battery discharge if connected from bike? I have had "2" bad batteries in a row before (don't cheap out on batteries), and they do some weird things sometimes.
 

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Have a USB charger port installed, does battery discharge if connected from bike? I have had "2" bad batteries in a row before (don't cheap out on batteries), and they do some weird things sometimes.
Yes this can definitely happen. The charger will have a constant current even if no load is detected. Depending how much the low current was a design consideration or not the current could be significant enough to kill your battery within as little as week or two. It really depends on the unit you have. To know how much, just put an ampere meter between the battery and the (likely red) wire of your charger and see what it says.
 
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