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Discussion Starter #1
Just took possession of a 2018 650XT. Need bar risers/risers that move the handle bar backwards somewhat. All the cables look like there's hardly any slack. Has anyone installed bar risers on a 2017/2018 without having any difficulties with cable length.

thx....
 

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You'll need to extend the brake lines and maybe reroute some other stuff. Adventure Tech sells a +2" upper brake line from Galfer for $58. Get this and you can keep your lower stock lines. If you want the full braided steel front brake line kit it's $112.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You'll need to extend the brake lines and maybe reroute some other stuff. Adventure Tech sells a +2" upper brake line from Galfer for $58. Get this and you can keep your lower stock lines. If you want the full braided steel front brake line kit it's $112.
Would probably like to go more than a 26mm change. So no replacing of throttle or clutch cables? They look pretty tight as they are.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You'll need to extend the brake lines and maybe reroute some other stuff. Adventure Tech sells a +2" upper brake line from Galfer for $58. Get this and you can keep your lower stock lines. If you want the full braided steel front brake line kit it's $112.
Would probably like to go more than a 26mm change. So no replacing of throttle or clutch cables? They look pretty tight as they are.
thx guys!!
 

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All I know is previous owner of my '17 had SW-Motech risers on prior to selling me the bike (30mm up, 21mm back). He had +2" stainless brake lines on with stock throttle and clutch cables. I thought he mentioned that something was rerouted, but looking at the pics he posted in the classified ad I don't see evidence of rerouting. I had him put it all back to stock before shipping me the bike.
 

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I've got SW Motech 1" up and 1" back risers... Very pleased with the construction.
No problem w/ the cables, *however*:
1- I have +2" braided steel brake lines from AdventureTech (Gaffer)
2- I also lowered the bike (both rear and front end). That also adds just a bit of cable slack by bringing the bars a bit lower...

All that said, I don't believe adding the up and back risers would be a cable problem with the stock lines, if you release or stretch just one or two of the routing clips.
 

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The Zeta should be just what I need. And no need to reroute cables or extend beak lines would be awesome. It's the first mod I need for my first Wee. 2017 650. Can't wait to get break in done and Mosko Moto bags on. Then it's And Awwwayyy WWeeee Go.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The Zeta should be just what I need. And no need to reroute cables or extend beak lines would be awesome. It's the first mod I need for my first Wee. 2017 650. Can't wait to get break in done and Mosko Moto bags on. Then it's And Awwwayyy WWeeee Go.
Off topic, but did you look at Givi GRT709 bags? I'm trying to decide between those and the Mosko Backcountry 35L's.
 

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I used the Zeta 25mm up and 22mm offset and that's about as far as one could go safely with the standard lines and cables and bars.
 

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The typical cable re-route is to thread them through the triple clamp. I put just a little riser on so that I wouldn't have to replace or re-route. But I recall reading plenty about it. The threads about it shouldn't be too hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I used the Zeta 25mm up and 22mm offset and that's about as far as one could go safely with the standard lines and cables and bars.
That's kinda what I figured, thanks. Going the Zeta route, although I would have liked another inch.
 

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I got these
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/262890691963

Cables are still ok (2017 DL650) but anything more would be too much. Had to loosen the brake line clamp under the triple tree to get a bit more play in it and then retighten. Lowering the bike through the fork tubes does not help at all with this, on an ABS bike at least, as the relationship between handlebar and triple tree/ bike body does not change and this is where all the cables and the brake line end up.
The riding position is much improved for me, it made a surprisingly big difference.
Shipped very fast from Turkey, fit and finish is perfect.
 

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That's kinda what I figured, thanks. Going the Zeta route, although I would have liked another inch.
Just put my Zetas on last night. Fairly easy process. In the up and back configuration, you'll need to cut the 3 zip ties on the handlebars (2 on left, 1 on right) to free up the wires a little bit then re-add new ones one the bars are in place. Otherwise, the only other modification I had to do was slightly bend the front lower brake hose stay to give just another mm or 2 or slack. All in all, good mod. I rode with it this morning and it feels pretty good, but I might actually just switch to up-only risers. The zeta pieces are nice quality, milled aluminum and comes with the hardware.
 

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That's what I'm considering. If you find some that don't require a cable re-route, please share. I see SW-Motech has 15, 20 and 25 mm rise versions, but they're a little pricey.
Well, the Zetas are an up and back piece and I was able put those on without any real work to the cables and wires, so I'd image just going up a bit (15-20mm) would be even more straight forward. I'll ride for a few more days to see how I feel about the Up+Back risers. They're definitely more comfortable to ride with than the factory geometry, but I feel like they're just a hair to too close now, which might cause a bit of numbness.
 

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That's what I'm considering. If you find some that don't require a cable re-route, please share. I see SW-Motech has 15, 20 and 25 mm rise versions, but they're a little pricey.
Zeta also makes up only versions that are reasonably priced.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Put on the Zetas. Even though they say that you don't need to extend any lines, I found that the front brake line was fairly tight. Also maybe because I put on a Kaoko throttle lock and Barkbusters, which required me to move the reservoir/lever assy outwards some. Was considering getting ADV Tech's 2" longer brake line, but found that by just removing the clamp that holds the front brake line to the triple tree, that loosened up just enough slack to make it work.
 
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