[071KVstrom]

In thinking through parts that "need" replacement vs. cosmetics, how important is it to replace a handlebar balancer set? The bike was dropped on that side about 2500 miles ago, and I was able to screw it back in tight but it looks a bit lopsided and dinged. How essential is this piece to safe riding? What exactly does "it' do?

P.s. Yes. I'm about the least mechanically inclined person in this forum.

 

[richw]

The additional mass at the end of the bars lowers its harmonic frequency

^^^ Today's physics lesson

It is fine the way it is it works because its heavy and its still heavy. It does also provide the bumper function it performed. It takes the high frequency "buzz" out of the handlebars

ride smile repeat

 

[ockerstrom]

The additional mass at the end of the bars lowers its harmonic frequency

^^^ Today's physics lesson

It is fine the way it is it works because its heavy and its still heavy. It does also provide the bumper function it performed. It takes the high frequency "buzz" out of the handlebars

ride smile repeat

Or in plain English.

They reduce the vibrations felt through the handlebars.
They are often referred to as "bar end weights".
They also help to protect the ends of the handlebars if the bike is dropped.

As long as they are in place and tight I wouldn't worry about replacing them, a little touch up paint will hide the marks and you may find the bolt that holds it in is bent so replacing that may straighten it up again.

 

[greywolf]

If you loosen the screw no more than 1/2" and push it in, you can wiggle out the entire assembly. Dis-assemble the weight system and straighten out the bent screw. Loosely put things back together, insert into the bar and tighten the screw. If you want, you can replace it with part number 56200-16841. Just don't take the screw out with the parts inside the handlebar. #7 is a rubber piece that expands when squeezed by tightening the screw. The parts can be pushed in too far for the screw to bite if not removed as an assembly.

 

[ockerstrom]

Parts 2 through to 8 in Pat's diagram.

I know you said this;

"P.s. Yes. I'm about the least mechanically inclined person in this forum."

But you would probably figure it out anyway. :fineprint:

 

[greywolf]

#2 is the whole assembly. The only part not available separately is the weight itself.

 

[PTRider]

A dab of silicone grease on the expansion sleeve, #7, helps it come out the next time.

 

[Bugzy]

You could file the other side down so both ends look the same, then touch up paint..

Or the next time, just drop it on the other side (j/k).

Dropping is not allowed.

I have taken the screws right out and put them back with no issues when i installed my Grip Puppy clones. Maybe i was just lucky, but i was carefull putting them back in, as soon as i felt pressure i started to turn the screw and it bit right away. taking the whole assembly out is probably wiser.

 

[071KVstrom]

Appreciate it

Wife and I already had the "no more drops allowed" chat. . .:argue: I think that conversation had more to do with the body bangs than the bike, but hey. . who's counting either? The assembly seems tight enough, albeit a bit lopsided when screwed in. I can live with that and avoid a 55.00 replacement piece (for now). Thanks! :thumbup:

 

[JET_V-Strom]

I'll readily admit to having a naturally skeptical bent. But for what it's worth, I think the bar end weights on the DL1000 are completely superfluous.

The handlebar posts are rubber mounted. The stock bars are flimsy and flexy. If anything, the bar end weights just exacerbate all that rubbery slop.

Before finding some bars I like, I had occasions while futzing about with bar risers to ride the bike without the silly bar end weights and really couldn't tell a difference at all regarding vibration, other than there was a little less of the flexi-flyer bouncing after every minor road groove or expansion joint.

I purely despise rubber mounted bars and weak, easily-bent handlebars. The well-balanced DL1K is not a Harley that needs all kinds of rubber isolators to insulate the rider from bone-shattering shakes. Nor is it a 1972 Honda CB450 that will tingle your nerves in 15 minutes of over 35 MPH.

I mounted some cross-braced aluminum bars and made some conical spacers out of relatively rigid nylon to replace the rubber cones in the bar mounts. The aluminum bars are wider than stock; about the same width as the stock bars plus the stock bar weights. Rather than cut the aluminum bars, I left off the bar weights.

The result is less vibration, not more. That is, it got rid of most of the rubbery oscillating flabadap that occurs with every minor road impact with the stock setup.

As for higher-frequency "buzz", there is no difference that I can discern. The DL1K engine just doesn't suffer from any significant amount of that to begin with. Certainly nothing that would tingle hands or put one's hands and wrists to sleep. And I am one not at all adverse to riding through a full tankful (200 miles or so) in one sitting.

I did go through a period of hand/wrist numbness before changing the bars, though. I have a right shoulder injury that was painfully aggrivated by this bike in stock configuration. But that is all a matter of bar position; it had nothing to do with vibration. I have the same problem on any bike before adjusting the bar position to my liking.

So I'm convinced the bar end weights on the V-Strom are nothing but cosmetic concession to fad, unless someone wants to justify them as sliders.

James

 

[notacop]

I though it was kinda fun when I undid the screw all the way and had to fish out the parts and rubber bits with a hook form the handlebar tube.
Dumb provides a great learning experience that isn't always expensive but leaves a lasting impression.
What was said about removing the screw and straightening it. My bar end was at 45 degrees after a recent get off. Just loosened it and tweaked it back straight. All mo-bettah.

 

[tmcgee]

That balancer is supposed to keep you from tipping over, it wasn't working obviously. :biggrinjester:

 

[95e320cab]

If you loosen the screw no more than 1/2" and push it in, you can wiggle out the entire assembly. Dis-assemble the weight system and straighten out the bent screw. Loosely put things back together, insert into the bar and tighten the screw. If you want, you can replace it with part number 56200-16841. Just don't take the screw out with the parts inside the handlebar. #7 is a rubber piece that expands when squeezed by tightening the screw. The parts can be pushed in too far for the screw to bite if not removed as an assembly.

Would have been better if I had read this post before installing my foam grip covers (not puppies brand). Schematic and description was very helpful during my own "fishing" expedition. Had to hook the rubber piece #7 with a cut and hooked coat hanger to pull it out. Thanks for bailing-out another Vee rookie.

Think I'll enjoy the new covers. Stock grips are merely adequate.

 

[DCSF]

Sorry to dredge up an old thread but...

Where is best place to get parts #7 and #8 ?

 

[greywolf]

Where is best place to get parts #7 and #8 ?

Most likely inside your handlebar. That's normally where they wind up if somebody makes the mistake of taking the screw all the way out. Only unscrew it 1/2"to a maximum of 3/4". Then wiggle the whole assembly out. To get at the parts, take off the bar end on the other side and use compressed air or a flexible shaft to push through the handlebar. Putting the bike on its side or fishing the parts out with a coat hanger wire have been done too.

If the parts are really gone, a Suzuki dealer or an online site that handles Suzuki parts is the place to check. #7 is part number 56272-10G00 and #8 is part number 56273-10G10.

 

[DCSF]

Most likely inside your handlebar. That's normally where they wind up if somebody makes the mistake of taking the screw all the way out. Only unscrew it 1/2"to a maximum of 3/4". Then wiggle the whole assembly out. To get at the parts, take off the bar end on the other side and use compressed air or a flexible shaft to push through the handlebar. Putting the bike on its side or fishing the parts out with a coat hanger wire have been done too.

If the parts are really gone, a Suzuki dealer or an online site that handles Suzuki parts is the place to check. #7 is part number 56272-10G00 and #8 is part number 56273-10G10.

Cheers.. Parts are gone gone

Will have root about online or those part numbers