I've not had this issue before from balancing beads. My first thought would be that the tire has an internal defect. I would occasionally see this back when I was working on cars daily. The common thing was to remount the tire on the wheel backwards to see if it pulled the other direction, which would indicated a defective tire. I would also check the rear tire alignment.
Balance Bead issues??
So I recently had a new set of tires put on my '14 1000 and the shop used balance beads to balance the tires. However when I ride the bike, and take my hands off the bars, the bike instantly pulls / leans to the left. I brought it back to the shop and they test rode it and confirmed the issue. The checked the wheels, brakes etc to make sure something wasn't binding and they said they took it all apart and re-torqued everything. However, they were never able to figure out the problem.
Some additional facts:
Any thoughts?
Some additional facts:
- I went from Dunlop Trailmax Missions to Michelin Road 6's.
- The front wheel requried a good number of wheel weights when I had the TMM's mounted.
- The bike went straight and true (when hands removed from bars) with the TMM even though the front was pretty heavily cupped.
- At 35-40 I have a vibration in the bars I've never felt before.
- at higher speeds (45+) the pull to the left is greatly reduced.
Any thoughts?
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A mis aligned wheel would also be my first guess, since uneven wear on the tire is not possible since they are new.
Has any work been done to the forks? Are both legs at the same hight in the clamps?
Has any work been done to the forks? Are both legs at the same hight in the clamps?
I've run balance beads in every bike tire I have mounted. Never had an issue. I'd start with loosening the pinch bolt on the front axle, bounce the suspension a couple times and then tighten it again.
I don't think it's the beads.
Is the tire seated on the rim alll around check bith sides.
Is the tire seated on the rim alll around check bith sides.
And check that the front wheel was reassembled correctly.
I don't think the beads are the problem. An out of balance wheel can be a vibration problem, but pulling to one side or the other suggests more of a reassembly problem, tire problem, alignment problem, or a headset problem.. if you didn't have issues before the tire change, that seems to rule out an alignment or headset problem, unless the mechanic for some reason felt the need to loosen the forks or headset during a tire change (which is doubtful).
No work has been done to the forks in the 16 months I've owned the bike but I never had this issue before the tire change. The forks seems to be at the same height in the clamps.A mis aligned wheel would also be my first guess, since uneven wear on the tire is not possible since they are new.
Has any work been done to the forks? Are both legs at the same hight in the clamps?
Tire seems to be properly seated. Tire pressure is set to Suzuki spec (36 front, 42 rear).I don't think it's the beads.
Is the tire seated on the rim alll around check bith sides.
If you have a center stand, put the bike on it and have a helper push the rear of the bike down to get the front wheel in the air. See if the handlebars turn to one side or the other on their own. If there's a significant bias to one side or the other, that's a good indicator that something in the front end is binding.
I don't know how comfortable you are with working on your bike, but I would just take the wheel all the way off. While the wheel was off I'd grab the forks and push and pull on them to see if there was any looseness in the headset. You'll feel it if there's any play in the headset. I'd look at the tire really closely while it was off, and look for any defects and also to make sure it was seated properly on the wheel. There's a line that goes all the way around the circumference of the tire, near the bead, that should tell you if any part of the tire isn't seated correctly. I'd put the tire back on, because maybe reinstalling it would undo any assembly issues that were originally causing the problem. I'd remove the calipers, loosen the axle, fender, and lower clamp pinch bolts, and the bounce the front end up and down a half dozen times to make sure the fork was aligned. I'd tighten it all back up, test ride it, and if it still was having that issue, I'd take the wheel back to the shop and remount it (unless you know how to do that yourself). If none of that fixed the problem, and the tire isn't defective, I'd start wondering if the shop somehow damaged the bike while it was in their custody, like maybe bending a fork leg or something not easily noticeable.
I don't know how comfortable you are with working on your bike, but I would just take the wheel all the way off. While the wheel was off I'd grab the forks and push and pull on them to see if there was any looseness in the headset. You'll feel it if there's any play in the headset. I'd look at the tire really closely while it was off, and look for any defects and also to make sure it was seated properly on the wheel. There's a line that goes all the way around the circumference of the tire, near the bead, that should tell you if any part of the tire isn't seated correctly. I'd put the tire back on, because maybe reinstalling it would undo any assembly issues that were originally causing the problem. I'd remove the calipers, loosen the axle, fender, and lower clamp pinch bolts, and the bounce the front end up and down a half dozen times to make sure the fork was aligned. I'd tighten it all back up, test ride it, and if it still was having that issue, I'd take the wheel back to the shop and remount it (unless you know how to do that yourself). If none of that fixed the problem, and the tire isn't defective, I'd start wondering if the shop somehow damaged the bike while it was in their custody, like maybe bending a fork leg or something not easily noticeable.
I've experienced this in the past. The problem was a improperly aligned rear tire. This is the tool I use. Chain Alignment Tool - Motion Pro
Thanks. I have the same tool and everything seems to be properly aligned on the rear of the bike.I've experienced this in the past. The problem was a improperly aligned rear tire. This is the tool I use. Chain Alignment Tool - Motion Pro
I put it on the center stand and put a 3/4" pice of wood under it to gain some extra height... when i lean the bike back on the rear wheel there might be a slight drop to the left if the bars are slightly past left of center.. if they are centered there is very little movement... if they are slightly right of center there is no movement....If you have a center stand, put the bike on it and have a helper push the rear of the bike down to get the front wheel in the air. See if the handlebars turn to one side or the other on their own. If there's a significant bias to one side or the other, that's a good indicator that something in the front end is binding.
I loosened the pinch bolts, bounced the suspension and tightened everything back up. I cannot tell a difference.
I don't have time this weekend but I'll follow your next steps and remove the front wheel assembly. I have tools and a service manual... what could go wrong?
This won't make complete sense since you said the previous tires didn't have the problem, but.....check the steering head bearings for brinelling. Loose head brgs wont create the issue. Easy way to check - loosen the fork clamps in the upper tree, loosen the stem locking nut, then tighten the stem nut until you feel appreciable drag in the steering. Do the last part with the wheel off the ground. If you feel any change in the force required to move lock to lock, the brgs have small low spots in them and need replaced. You will feel the "notches" or low spots vrey easily. If everything is smooth, reset to the proper torque etc.
Brinelling will not create the feeling of imbalance/vibration in the bars you mentioned - that is from a rotating mass, ie tire imbalance.It's rare for bike tires, but if there is a belt/tread problem with a tire, the tire can be statically or dynamically balanced but still create vibration due the distance from the axle to the road changes as the imperfection hits the road - can be a bump or the tire compresses more.
Brinelling will not create the feeling of imbalance/vibration in the bars you mentioned - that is from a rotating mass, ie tire imbalance.It's rare for bike tires, but if there is a belt/tread problem with a tire, the tire can be statically or dynamically balanced but still create vibration due the distance from the axle to the road changes as the imperfection hits the road - can be a bump or the tire compresses more.
^ThisI've experienced this in the past. The problem was a improperly aligned rear tire. This is the tool I use. Chain Alignment Tool - Motion Pro
Just wanted to circle back on this. I have been busy with work and my son's college football season is rolling so I took the bike to my local Suzuki dealership to see if they could sort it out. The took the tires off, got rid of the balance beads, and static balanced the tires. They did say that it was very hard to re-seat the front tire. They also said that the steering head bearings feel fine. No slop, no movement.
Cut to the chase, same issues. They spent a lot of time on it and they feel that I have a bad tire(s).
I bought the tires from Revzilla so I reached out to find out about a warranty claim. I had to submit photos, dates, etc and they filed the claim with Michelin. Got word back today that Michelin will not warranty the tire since it was mounted and run with balance beads.
Two shops have not looked at everything, the balance beads are gone. The only variable left is the tires. Since the warranty is void I'm thinking about getting a new set of tires (different make / model) and just move on from this whole mess.
Cut to the chase, same issues. They spent a lot of time on it and they feel that I have a bad tire(s).
I bought the tires from Revzilla so I reached out to find out about a warranty claim. I had to submit photos, dates, etc and they filed the claim with Michelin. Got word back today that Michelin will not warranty the tire since it was mounted and run with balance beads.
Two shops have not looked at everything, the balance beads are gone. The only variable left is the tires. Since the warranty is void I'm thinking about getting a new set of tires (different make / model) and just move on from this whole mess.
The shop that mounted the tires should step up. Most tire manufactures will not warranty tires with stuff in side the tires.
2 thingsJust wanted to circle back on this. I have been busy with work and my son's college football season is rolling so I took the bike to my local Suzuki dealership to see if they could sort it out. The took the tires off, got rid of the balance beads, and static balanced the tires. They did say that it was very hard to re-seat the front tire. They also said that the steering head bearings feel find. No slop, no movement.
Cut to the chase, same issues. They spent a lot of time on it and they feel that I have a bad tire(s).
I bought the tires from Revzilla so I reached out to find out about a warranty claim. I had to submit photos, dates, etc and they filed the claim with Michelin. Got word back today that Michelin will not warranty the tire since it was mounted and run with balance beads.
Two shops have not looked at everything, the balance beads are gone. The only variable left is the tires. Since the warranty is void I'm thinking about getting a new set of tires (different make / model) and just move on from this whole mess.
1) The whole warranty thing if you use beads is weak
2) Why would they know that you used beads?
I included that info in the warranty claim. I had no idea it would have any affect on the outcome. At this point I'm just trying to get the bike sorted out as I use it for my daily commuter and the whole thing is getting old.2 things
1) The whole warranty thing if you use beads is weak
2) Why would they know that you used beads?
Revzilla has stepped up and offered me a replacement set of tires at cost. I think I'm going to take them up on it and just move on. I debated between the Road 6's and TKC70's and I think I'm going to go with the TKC 70's this time.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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