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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was heading out for a ride tonight and noticed my chain was a little slack. I LOOSENED, not removed my rear axle nut which I thought was turning a bit hard, but didn't really have to force it. Then I adjusted my 2 adjusters and went to tighten my axle nut again, and holy cow, it was like it was all but seized in place. VERY hard to tighten OR loosen. :furious: As I write this, I'm not certain of the exact Kms, but the bke has in the neighborhood of 2500 KMS on it.

I've owned and have done lots of maintenence on bikes for over 25 years and have never had this happen. Had a friend come over who runs a NAPA Autopro garage, so he knows what he's talking about. He says it looks like it was put on too tight at the factory, causing the threads to likely be damaged even though we never actually took the nut completely off to investigate. I didn't want to take it completely off as the head of the axle side was beginning to show damage and didn't want to bugger it up to the point of making it unserviceable.

We managed to tighten the nut back up enough to roll it up onto the truck, and called the dealer where I bought it from. I asked if it would be covered under warranty as it isn't a year old of course. He says they would have to take a look at it to be sure, but if they think that it was damage on my part then no, I would need replace on my own dime. He also suggests that I possibly cross threaded the nut which is not the case as I didn't even have the nut off !! As well, when tightened, you can see that the couple threads on the end of the axle are undamaged.

Is this a common problem on Vstroms/Suzukis/other years? I believe the same axle and nut have been used on previous models.

Any help would be appreciated as it looks like I will be pleading my case with the dealer and from the phone call they seem to want to put the blame on me.
 

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Common problem on 2005 DL650's. You need a new axle and new axle nut.
 

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I've had mine off already, no problems here.

How did the end of the axle get damaged?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Stainless steel likes to gall and the combo is SS. The preventative measure that works is to apply anti seize to the threads to prevent galling and torque to 58 lb-ft instead of 72.5lb-ft to account for the lubrication effect. It was common around 2005 but can happen with any year.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Stainless steel likes to gall and the combo is SS. The preventative measure that works is to apply anti seize to the threads to prevent galling and torque to 58 lb-ft instead of 72.5lb-ft to account for the lubrication effect. It was common around 2005 but can happen with any year.
Good to know Greywolf, I'll do that on my hopefully warranted new one
 

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I trashed mine (2011) also or the dealer doing the setup did. I have also owned several bikes and never had a problem with stripped threads.

I was under warranty when I discovered the problem during a chain adjustment but never bothered to try and claim any fault towards suzuki or dealership.

I had the dealership order me a new shaft and nut close to $100 if I remember later found it online about $30-40 cheaper.

Follow greywolf's words I have not had a problem since using anti seize and lower torque value.
 

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3500 mi with 1 chain adjustment. No problem with the nut and axle. But this is really something to look for next time. Thanks for the tips:thumbup:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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From past experience that Milk of Magnesia is a known anti-galling compound when using stainless - stainless fastenings.
I hadn't heard of that before. A check would indicate it's viable. Use the pure stuff though, not mint flavored. I think I'll stick to anti seize though since water is involved in riding.
 

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It happened on my 2004. I had to basically cut it off, and replaced it with an axle and nut from the wreckers.

The problem is exaggerated by the silly lock nut design.
 

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Never heard of this before.

So the goofy lock nut design trashes the threads on the axle? What is the official name of that locknut anyway? It seems to have a metal ring instead of a nylock ring. This is the closest I can find at McMaster: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=i587g3

Milk of Magnesia? Huh?? I don't think any of the fasteners are stainless steel either.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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They are SS. SS does not mean rust free but rust resistant. There are different grades with the stronger grades less resistant to tarnish. Strom axles, axle nuts and brake discs are SS that is designed more for strength than rust resistance. Before 2009, a castle or castellated nut was used. 2009 and later used what is popularly known as a Fuji nut.

SS cold welds under pressure or galls. The torque spec is probably too high also. I have heard of zero problems using anti seize and 58lb-ft.
 

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The torque spec is probably too high also. I have heard of zero problems using anti seize and 58lb-ft.
The interesting thing is that it galls when you try to get the nut off, but I think that makes sense.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Put a magnet on a mild steel piece. The attraction is noticeably stronger. Try a cowling bolt. It's almost non existent. They are different grades of SS. The axle is much like the discs which are definitely not plated and definitely not basic steel. The axle and nut are not plated. Gouge one and it doesn't get that rusty gouge plated steel gets.

The McMaster Carr link seems to support my SS assertion as far as I can see. I see nothing in the Fuji nut nut to contraindicate its use for this application.
 

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ok, so all of my bikes I have ever owned have all had chain drive, I have never had a problem adjusting my chain on any of them, but must say this thread has me a bit nervous, as I will soon need to tighten the chain on the new wee. I obviously can't put anti-seize compound on the nut / bolt until I get it loosened.
I would really hate to go to the dealer to have him adjust my chain, but if I start it myself and begin and have this problem, they may not warranty any damage I may do, however, if it is the dealer doing it they most certainly would have to cover the cost of any damage, but jeez, goin' to the dealer to have my dang chain tightened? This is the most basic of maintenance, am I missing something? :confused:
 
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