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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for all the input and advice. The consensus opinion on orientation seems to be vertical, which is good because that's the way I was leaning.

I'll probably just use the Posi-lock connectors + shrink tube for now and see how they hold up.
 

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I vote Vertical as well.
Is the beam pattern of the floodlight variety- spraying photons up-down-left-right more or less equally? Or are they designed to spread light like the headlight -more horizontally and forward than vertically?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Is the beam pattern of the floodlight variety- spraying photons up-down-left-right more or less equally? Or are they designed to spread light like the headlight -more horizontally and forward than vertically?
That’s a good question, and one I was wondering about as well. I haven’t had a chance to mess with mine enough to determine that, but I’m a little concerned that a vertical orientation will tend to project light upward, which I don’t want.

I hope to finish this job up this weekend, and the we shall see.
 

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I used waterproof connectors because they were cheap and wanted something easy to disconnect from the lights when I need to take the crash bars off.

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
 

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Since I have the Saito heated grips, the heat controller left very little space on the left side for a aux lights switch. Finally found this one on AliExpress and it solved the problem .


Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
 

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How well do they work?

I am curious just how well these "cheap" led aux lights work.

Maybe ScottKY will take some pictures on a really dark road when he gets them installed. One picture with just the bike's high beam then the other with the aux lights on as well...

Just curious if these cheaps lights are worth the effort install them.
 

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I didn't read every post but as always mount the lights so the crash bars protect them if the bike is laid over. :wink2:

 

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From what I saw most of the LED lights designed to work on most bikes or crash bars were well over $200
for a set. Yes they are nice. I get that. Mine even though they came from Yitamotor on ebay they
were $20 total harness, switch, fuse holder, Relay. The only thing I had to reinvent was the mounts.
So I can replace these 10 times for the same cost as some of the other sets from parts houses.
I have an identical pair on my monte carlo and they are 2 years old and still work great.

This guys stuff is decent unlike some others I have purchased from on ebay.
My 2000 Altima has a bigger set than this on the front end and they came from the same
vendor and they are at least a year old and are like brand new, no issues at all.
And they are exposed to all the elements.
 

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If you twist the wires when soldering not just lap solder then your solder joint is much firmer.
To water proof all you have to do . Is put a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires , twist the wires together ,
solder, then put a dab of silicone sealant on the solder, slide the heat shrink back over the connection and heat
with hair dryer on high or heat gun from Harbor freight for like $8. Water proof and vibration proof seal.
Been doing this for years without issue.
 

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I wired my hot and ground right to the Pig tail on the battery tender. The quick disconnect can unhook the lights
for battery charging and hook back to the lights in seconds. I found all the room I needed in the battery area.
And because all the harness was added I never needed to cut into the factory harness for any of it.
So except for the hidden switch I added, I literally can remove ever bit of the auxillary lights and you would
never know they had been installed.
 

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Simple amazon search pulls up this. LOTS of different options depending on what type you like.
I appreciate your effort and attempt to help JAD; but, that is absolutely no help for what he stated and what I asked for. If you look back (or the re-quotes below) you will see my question wasn't for any random business that provides parts/service for V-stroms or motorcycles. It was in response to his statement that: "there are plenty of options for handlebar-mounted switches on from Stromtrooper vendors or Amazon". If we have Stromtroopers who are vendors or sell on Amazon, I would like the links. That would be helpful. I would like to support forum members, such as Adventuretech, when I can.

there are plenty of options for handlebar-mounted switches on from Stromtrooper vendors or Amazon.
Can you provide links or names please? I would love to patronize my fellow forum members. Thanks in advance.
 

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Can you provide links or names please? I would love to patronize my fellow forum members. Thanks in advance.
Your question, evidently not.

-- there are plenty of options for handlebar-mounted switches on from Stromtrooper vendors or Amazon.)
His statement, directly. Good luck in your search.
 

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Why can't we be friends - why can't we be friends - why can't we be friends - Wars greatest hits 1978 :smile2: :var_5:
 

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I don't have any specific experience with handlebar-mounted switches, but am pretty sure AdventureTech sells one, or the Amazon link from JAD I imagine has plenty of options. Maybe others will chime in with specific recommendations.

jeeves -- That's a neat little switch! Adding it to my list for when I need one. Safe to assume it's not a momentary switch, and when pressed it toggles on or off until switched again?

SECoda -- Am I correct in seeing that your larger aux lights are Denali?

Resto -- Like you, I went cheapo...for my conspicuity lights. But for my 2nd set, I want a pair of driving lights with tight beam and long throw to run with my high beams. Trying to find a suitable set of cheapos might require buying many pairs, and even then might work out only if I get lucky. I'm still trying to figure out if there are any cheap options that have a suitably tight beam with long throw.

hoggdoc -- The biggest differences in the more expensive aux lights:

  • Known beam pattern. Typically, communicated truthfully and accurately. The tighter the pattern, the higher the price, generally speaking. (The cheapos are typically hit or miss, and from what I've seen the tighter the advertised beam, the (much) higher the miss rate.)
  • Customer Service.
For conspicuity, the beam pattern isn't of particular concern and just about any will work just fine. Different animal if one wants to use the lights to SEE something. Still trying to figure out my best value for tight beam, long throw LED lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Ok, my cheap LEDs are installed. I still need to aim them, but I’m thinking they’re going to serve the intended purpose.

I ended up mounting them vertically on the crash bars. Yes, they’re definitely vulnerable if the bike tips over, but I can live with that.

After all was said and done, I did not wire them to a handlebar switch. The switch I bought was quite cheap, and most certainly wasn’t waterproof. So i didn’t want to leave it exposed to the elements. I used the switch, but left it in the compartment under the seat. So I can disable the lights should I ever need to, but they’ll be wired to come on with the ignition.

Now we’ll see how these cheap-o lights hold up.

(No idea why my pic is sideways, and I don’t know how to fix it...sorry)
 

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