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Discussion Starter #1
So I bought some cheap LED aux lights, which I'm going to mount to my Givi crash bars. Looking for opinions...horizontal or vertical. Yeah, I know that either way, they're vulnerable if the bike takes a nap, but I'm not all that concerned about that. They were cheap.

Disregard the wiring mess...I'm in the mock-up stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In case anyone is interested...

Lights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU0JH5P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791NB4FM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring Harness:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0155W7EDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(but this was a mistake. I don't want to drill any holes to mount the switch)

So I subsequently ordered this switch to mount on the handlebars:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ELLJYGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't have all of this installed yet, but I think it's going to work out ok.
 

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I vote vertical. Might help to see them turned on, though.

I also have cheap (but different) lights mounted to the outside of my Givi bars. The bike has taken 3 naps so far, and I just re-align the lights and they keep on going.

Have you considered wiring them to come on with the low beams & turn off with the high, or stay on with both low / high beams and off with a switch?
 

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I went vertical with mine(Amber though).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Have you considered wiring them to come on with the low beams & turn off with the high, or stay on with both low / high beams and off with a switch?
I did consider that, but it seems a bit complicated. I think I'm going to opt for simplicity, and just wire them to a switch.

I don't do a lot of night riding. I mainly wanted these for daytime conspicuity (spell check doesn't like that word, but I'm sticking with it).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BTW, does anyone care to chime in on preferred connection methods? I'm comfortable with soldering. Is soldering + shrink tube the way to go? That doesn't seem like it would be all that watertight.

Should I go get some automotive type waterproof connectors? Do most auto parts stores carry such connectors?

Geez, I'm full of questions :grin2:
 

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BTW, does anyone care to chime in on preferred connection methods? I'm comfortable with soldering. Is soldering + shrink tube the way to go? That doesn't seem like it would be all that watertight.

Should I go get some automotive type waterproof connectors? Do most auto parts stores carry such connectors?

Geez, I'm full of questions :grin2:

I used the Spade connectors that came on the lights and harness. The connection is tucked up behind the radiator plastic panels. Seems waterproof.

Why use a switch if you are using the lights for conspicuousness? I wired the relay trigger to the rear brake power.

Those light are really bright and the beam not well defined. I have mine aimed down quite a bit. I wouldn't use them for supplemental lighting they would blind oncoming drivers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Why use a switch if you are using the lights for conspicuousness? I wired the relay trigger to the rear brake power.

Those light are really bright and the beam not well defined. I have mine aimed down quite a bit. I wouldn't use them for supplemental lighting they would blind oncoming drivers.
Well, that second paragraph sort of answers the question. There may be situations where I'd like to turn the lights off. I'd rather have a switch and not need it than to need a switch and not have it.
 

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BTW, does anyone care to chime in on preferred connection methods? I'm comfortable with soldering. Is soldering + shrink tube the way to go? That doesn't seem like it would be all that watertight.

Should I go get some automotive type waterproof connectors? Do most auto parts stores carry such connectors?

Geez, I'm full of questions :grin2:
I always use these.....https://www.posi-products.com/
 

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Well, that second paragraph sort of answers the question. There may be situations where I'd like to turn the lights off. I'd rather have a switch and not need it than to need a switch and not have it.
You have everything you need for auto-on/off with the ignition and at-will off with the switch. (Though I see below you don't want to drill any holes to mount the switch that came with the harness -- there are plenty of options for handlebar-mounted switches on from Stromtrooper vendors or Amazon.) In this thread, the first diagram (deleting the smaller box in the top right) will get you the above setup.

I'm all thumbs, and did the above, just without the switch. I positioned my relay under the seat and tapped the switched +12v tail light wire, since I didn't opt for an accessible switch to turn my lights off.

In your case, you could position the relay and tap a switched +12v wire near the switch position (likely handlebars). Main power and ground wires for the lights will run from the relay to the lights, and from the relay back to the battery as indicated in the diagram.

I usually just use positaps and posilocks for my connections. If concerned about weather exposure, I add a layer of shrinkwrap. You'll want to position the relay somewhere out of the way, of course, and if concerned about weather exposure could wrap it in leftover inner tube rubber or some such (or get a water resistant relay).
 

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BTW, does anyone care to chime in on preferred connection methods? I'm comfortable with soldering. Is soldering + shrink tube the way to go? That doesn't seem like it would be all that watertight.

Should I go get some automotive type waterproof connectors? Do most auto parts stores carry such connectors?

Geez, I'm full of questions :grin2:
I've always liked these. They have shrink plastic on the outside with an adhesive inside that softens and seals when the shrink tube is heated making the connection water-tight.
 

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Apparently solder is bad on motorcycles due to the vibration, the connections do not last long. That is why all motorcycles have crimp connectors.

I vote vertical as well, I think it looks better on the bike and maybe won't jamb into the engine block on a tip over.
 
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