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Discussion Starter #1
My 55w piaa 1100X aux lights that I'll be fork mounting just arrived, and the instructions offer 4 different wiring options for connecting the "switch power lead". Here are the listed options.
1. Connect to ignition switch positive wire. Lights will operate anytime ignition is on.
2. Connect to high beam positive wire. Lights will only operate on high beam.(I Don't like this option)
3.Connect to low beam positive wire. Lights will only operate on low beam.
4. Connect to battery or lighting coil positive. Lights will operate anytime with battery.
So, how have those of you that have wired aux lights in wired yours? I have an 07 650 if that matters. -john
 

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+1 on #1. Definitely not 4.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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#1 and the power needs to be relay controlled. Switched power will throw the relay and the relay will connect the battery to the lights. 110W for the 2 lights will sap all the spare power available to the bike and possibly then some.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I guess I'll go w/ #1. A relay is included in the kit. Is the ignition switch positive wire easy to locate?
There are three popular locations, the brown wire inside the sheath running down the left side of the under seat tray, the OEM heated grip connector behind the radiator if it isn't being used, and the rear brake light switch hot lead. Both the latter two are orange green wires. They can be used without cutting and splicing anything using connectors from Eastern Beaver. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/VStrom/body_vstrom.html#heatedgripadaptor http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/VStrom/body_vstrom.html#brakeadaptor

There are lots of helpful wiring aids at the E/B site.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the info. I was going to go w/ 35w piaa's but I got greedy because I really like the 1100X and they aren't available in 35W. I heard of one guy on this site having battery issues w/ 55w aux lights. Anyone running 55w lights on an 07 or down 650, or hear of anyone having juice problems by running them? The box the lights came in says v-strom 650 on it, so I'm hoping if I can keep the rpms up and am not idling in long traffic jams w/ them on I'll be ok. Also, I don't plan to attempt to run anything but the lights if they're on.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's a good idea for anybody pushing the envelope electrically to mount a voltmeter.
 

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I suggest you mount a manual on/off switch in the circuit from the ignition switched POS wire to the relay coil.

Having no way to turn the lights off could be a real bummer if you have a battery on the way out, or any other problem and have to limp home conserving juice.

Face it, no matter what wattage your lamps, at idle they'll be sucking power from the battery. You therefore might want to turn the lights off a a long red light for example, if you're working on the bike, or any other time you have the bike running but not moving.
 

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Anyone running 55w lights on an 07 or down 650, or hear of anyone having juice problems by running them?
I solved the power problem by having a 55w driving light and a 55w fog light, each switched separately. On the other hand, I seldom ride at night.

Get yourself a voltmeter if you're going to run both 55w lights at once. It beats the hell out of pushing the bike if you kill your battery completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I guess a voltmeter is in order. Here's a question from a guy that's never had a bike w/ a dead battery. If the batt. Is totally dead, can you still push start it?
 

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I guess a voltmeter is in order. Here's a question from a guy that's never had a bike w/ a dead battery. If the batt. Is totally dead, can you still push start it?
If the battery doesn't have enough juice to run the fuel pump, you're walking. If the fuel pump will run, you can jump start the bike.

As to the PIAA lights, you can swap in lower wattage bulbs. I think they're MR-16s. Or just swap one bulb for a 35w version.
 

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To me those "options" are missing the one that makes the most sense.

Operate the relay from a switched source (with a manual swich as well so you control the lights) and have the light power come directly from the battery.

That way you control whether or not the lights are on.

Maybe option #1 assumes that you're also using a manual switch?

Anyway go with Jim's suggestion, it gives the most flexibility.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I never even considered the job might be done without a switch. Nice catch guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A switch was included w/ the kit along w/ the relay. I like the idea of possibly putting a 35w bulb in one side, I suppose that'll work.
 

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I wired mine to a separate circut with a relay and mounted a lighted switch in the left hand guard so I can flip the switch with my left pointer finger. I like having the option of having the lights on without have the key on.

Good luck.
...
 

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There are three popular locations, the brown wire inside the sheath running down the left side of the under seat tray, the OEM heated grip connector behind the radiator if it isn't being used, and the rear brake light switch hot lead. Both the latter two are orange green wires. They can be used without cutting and splicing anything using connectors from Eastern Beaver. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/VStrom/body_vstrom.html#heatedgripadaptor http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/VStrom/body_vstrom.html#brakeadaptor

There are lots of helpful wiring aids at the E/B site.
Greywolf, I installed LEDs on my wee '07 and am trying to connect it to ignition switch positive wire. Most likely I will follow your suggestion, brown wire on the left side or the rear brake light switch.

Where exactly these wires are located and the links above don't work anymore.
Thanks!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Suzuki VStrom Electrics is the new url.

Find the rear brake light switch at the top of the spring pull on the rear brake pedal. The wires run up under the coolant reservoir. The brown wire is in the sheath running on the left of the under seat tray.
 

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I was ready to order, $11.95. no bad.

there is a catch. shipping is $597.50

WTF???! are they serious?
 
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