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Discussion Starter #1
help!

I just got my autocom kit and I was wondering if anyone had seen a photo install for the strom anywhere. I've searched on several forums and google with no luck. The part I'm having trouble with right off the bat is where to attach the positive power cable. I know the tail light wire coming out of the fuse box, but I don't see it, even using a wiring diagram.

Thanks!:confused:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The tail light wire is the brown wire encased in the sheath on the left side of the under seat tray. Any gray wire in the tail section will also work as the brown wire turns gray on the back side of the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you! Can I get to the wire with the side panel on? I just put my caribou rack on and getting the panel off is going to be slightly painful, but not the worst thing ever.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Yes. Just carefully cut the sheath to access the wires inside.
 

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Just a tip...

When you route your cables make sure to run the power cable a different route than the communications cable. I ran mine together at first (Starcom Advanced) and had interference (feedback) in the form of variable whine. Seperate the cables so they run a different path and all is nice and the noise is gone. I wish I had done that the first time so I thought I would mention it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, that was a huge help. I cant tell you how much time, effort, stress, and money forums have saved me over the years, thanks to guys like you!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Autocom seemed to be hailed universally as the one to get due to the fact that it works exactly as advertised and is very well engineered. Some of the cheaper options apparently are real headaches.
 

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Autocom seemed to be hailed universally as the one to get due to the fact that it works exactly as advertised and is very well engineered. Some of the cheaper options apparently are real headaches.
that's what I have heard from the long distance riding community also, but before starcom or motocom came to the market

starcom is about the same price, motocom is less

mt biggest question is sound quality at 75-80 mph highway speed

not concerned so much about when I'm floggin it in twisties except hearing my rader detector



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Took a 2 hour ride with the wife today and everything worked great!

I soldered the connection a little, but I really suck at that. Almost every bit of solder just wants to bead up and drop to the ground. Is there a trick to soldering I havent figured out?
 

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(Someone please feel free to correct me if I am wrong here.)

I believe you heat the wire (or whatever you are soldering). If you have done it right once you touch to solder to the heated wire the heat of the wire will melt the solder and wick it into the wire. You shouldn't touch the solder with the soldering iron (other than to see if it is hot enough).. that just makes the solder melt on top of the wire and you will end up with what is called "cold solder" joints that don't contact very well.

..Tom


Took a 2 hour ride with the wife today and everything worked great!

I soldered the connection a little, but I really suck at that. Almost every bit of solder just wants to bead up and drop to the ground. Is there a trick to soldering I havent figured out?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Right. Make sure you use rosin core electrical solder. Tin the iron tip so the liquid solder may better contact more wire area to transfer heat. Then apply the solder to the wire. When the wire gets hot enough to melt the solder, feed the solder along the joint to wet the entire joint. The key is to let the wire melt the solder, not the iron.
 

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I have done a fair amount of riding over the last 25 years and out of all the comm systems I have tested and installed and removed, thrown away and dismantled, Autocom is by far the best of the "small" systems. Beahr (sp) was a pain to install on my Goldwing, but the quality is unbelievable, especially with the Bose headsets.(converted aircraft headsets)
But the autocom system has proven to be clear on 90% of bikes well beyond 100MPH.
 

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I have just fitted the Autocom Active rider plus (rider and pillion) on the weekend. I was apprehensive about spending such a large amount of my farkle money but as I am going on a four week trip leaving in two weeks time I thought I would get value for money on this trip at least. I plan to do a write up including pix when I get back.

First impression are good, being an ex navy electronics tech I was impressed with the quality of the leads and switches and the set up instructions are excellent too. Only took me 3 hours to hardwire the system into my bike and helmet including PTT switch on bars. Sound is excellent with UHF CB and Minidisc player hooked up.

Anyway as I said, I'll do a proper write up in about 6 weeks time. Anyone with questions welcome to PM me in the next 2 weeks otherwise I'll be off line for the trip.
 

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The Autocom

Hey, I know it's late coming in behind your post but I was wondering if you used the Autocom speakers? I have been very pleased with Autocom but, IMO, their speakers just plain suck. I have gutted a couple different headsets and installed them in place of Autocom crap. So far my latest is to add some J&M speakers. They're ok but still searching for better sound. I'm not real impressed with all the talk about the in ear plugs. The sound might be better but it seems like everybody has ear pain after wearing them and they pop out when putting on or taking off the helmet.

To use the in ear stuff you'd have to get a new $$ adapter to hook them to the Autocom cords anyway.
 
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