[conquermike]

I really wouldn't ride it like that. There's a high chance you'll stick a valve through the piston.

I agree, my course of action is to get the smallest shims available to try to open the gap as much as possible while I prepare to rebuilt the cylinder head

 

[Hogges]

TDC is when you have the biggest gap. If I understand you right you say there is more space when you are not at TDC. This is impossible. Which to me can only mean that you need to look again to find the true TDC.

 

[HokiesRWee]

TDC is when you have the biggest gap. If I understand you right you say there is more space when you are not at TDC. This is impossible. Which to me can only mean that you need to look again to find the true TDC.

Yeah, I didn’t understand those OP comments, either.

I think that, when the cam lobe is pressing against the bucket, there should, of course, be no gap. When the lobe is directly opposite the bucket (rotated 180 degrees), there should be a gap.

Also, I didn’t see the OP mention mileage (though someone did).

 

[conquermike]

TDC is when you have the biggest gap. If I understand you right you say there is more space when you are not at TDC. This is impossible. Which to me can only mean that you need to look again to find the true TDC.

thanks for pointing this out clearly, I will double check the service repair manual and make sure I'm following the procedure.

 

[conquermike]

TDC is when you have the biggest gap. If I understand you right you say there is more space when you are not at TDC. This is impossible. Which to me can only mean that you need to look again to find the true TDC.

After reviewing the instructions, I followed them correctly as far as aligning the indexing mark with the F| for front and |R for rear in the inspection hole but I dont recall my cams being in that position, will double check this afternoon

 

[stickerbush]

There are some super sticky parts of the crankshaft rotation where I can hear what sounds like decompression happening in the front cylinder (my problem cylinder).

This is expected when you don't remove a spark plug before trying to rotate the motor.

 

[stickerbush]

@conquermike I find this to be a great adjunct to the service manual when adjusting valves.

Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Valve Check and Adjustment tutorial - CircleNZ

Our simple step by step illustrated tutorial showing you how to make a valve check and adjustment on a Suzuki V-Strom DL650…

circlenz.co.nz

 

[TinMan88]

Camshaft(s) could be bent!

WHAT?!
Most improbable

 

[TinMan88]

I agree, my course of action is to get the smallest shims available to try to open the gap as much as possible while I prepare to rebuilt the cylinder head

You are getting way ahead of yourself there. Please review the mechanical timing of the parts. The proper mark on the crank must be coincident with the marks on both cams as pictured in the manual. If you have lifted the cams out while they depress the valves you are in the next orbit of trouble. This job is sequential in an order. When done in the order, there are no surprises in an engine that was running.

 

[conquermike]

This is expected when you don't remove a spark plug before trying to rotate the motor.

Roger that, will remove the plugs and hope that eliminates the friction when turning the crankshaft manually

 

[Akula61]

Even the smallest bend on the camshaft? Would cause engine shake/noise like a MoFo....No?

Mike, did you pull the head in question yet? Maybe something is not releasing/binding?

Good luck

 

[conquermike]

You are getting way ahead of yourself there. Please review the mechanical timing of the parts. The proper mark on the crank must be coincident with the marks on both cams as pictured in the manual. If you have lifted the cams out while they depress the valves you are in the next orbit of trouble. This job is sequential in an order. When done in the order, there are no surprises in an engine that was running.

Just so I understand, the "F|" marking, when aligned with the mark on the inspection hole, does not always indicate that the cams will be in the correct position? I may need to continue rotating the crankshaft until both the F| AND the cams are in the correct position?

 

[conquermike]

Even the smallest bend on the camshaft? Would cause engine shake/noise like a MoFo....No?

Mike, did you pull the head in question yet? Maybe something is not releasing/binding?

Good luck

So it seems as though I interpreted the instructions in the service manual incorrectly. I assumed based on what I read that the cams would always be in the correct position if the crankshaft was in position for TDC. I didn't understand that I may need to rotate the camshaft 360 degrees several times until the cams are also correct.

Stay tuned!
Ps. Also I hope your rear shock is living it's best life at sasquatch!

 

[Motorpsychology]

Something is not in its position if there is no gap at TDC. Double check your manual.:

• Are the intake and exhaust cams in the proper place (not reversed)? They are marked IN and EX. Not trying to insult you, but just looking for clues.
• Are you sure the cams are at the proper position when the flywheel is at TDC?
• Are the cams aligned with the mating surface of the head as it is specified?
• Are there the proper number of cam chain links between the marks on the cams?

 

[stickerbush]

Just so I understand, the "F|" marking, when aligned with the mark on the inspection hole, does not always indicate that the cams will be in the correct position? I may need to continue rotating the crankshaft until both the F| AND the cams are in the correct position?

Correct. There are two top dead center positions, one for compression stroke and one for exhaust stroke. At TDC on exhaust stroke the cam lobe will be holding the exhaust valve open. At TDC on compression stroke, valves will be fully closed and this is the position for adjusting valve clearance.

 

[conquermike]

Something is not in its position if there is no gap at TDC. Double check your manual.:

• Are the intake and exhaust cams in the proper place (not reversed)? They are marked IN and EX. Not trying to insult you, but just looking for clues.
• Are you sure the cams are at the proper position when the flywheel is at TDC?
• Are the cams aligned with the mating surface of the head as it is specified?
• Are there the proper number of cam chain links between the marks on the cams?

You are correct, yourself and others have enlightened me to something I missed in the manual where I may need to rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees several times until the cams are in position. They were not in position, unfortunately I did remove the cams while they were pressed against the valve tappet, but I was super careful and took pics to ensure they were reinstalled as they were removed

 

[TinMan88]

Just so I understand, the "F|" marking, when aligned with the mark on the inspection hole, does not always indicate that the cams will be in the correct position? I may need to continue rotating the crankshaft until both the F| AND the cams are in the correct position?

Yes. Understand the sequence. The crank can go round and round but it is only in the correct place when the hash marks on the camshafts coincide with the correct mark on crank rotation. At that point the crank must not move again . When the cams are removed and replaced they will reflect the same marks aligned with the gasket surface as before. Any discrepancy with this alignment on re-assembly indicates a part out of sequence.

 

[TinMan88]

Even the smallest bend on the camshaft? Would cause engine shake/noise like a MoFo....No?

Mike, did you pull the head in question yet? Maybe something is not releasing/binding?

Good luck

There is nothing in the assembled parts that would bend a hardened camshaft without being involved in a total wipeout.

 

[D.T.]

Well, it is your first time I assume and you are at least trying.

I probably made a lot of mistakes, but sometimes the you have to learn the hard way. We all have different circumstances.

All the info you need is probably here already.

DL650 Valve Adjustment Notes and Tips

Easy one person job to loosen the cam chain & take the cam shafts out. Tricky to find just where to push on the tensioner pawl. The rear tensioner bolt is reached with a wobbly socket on a long extension. Put a wrap of electrical tape around the universal socket so it isn't too wobbly...

www.stromtrooper.com

Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Valve Check and Adjustment tutorial - CircleNZ

Our simple step by step illustrated tutorial showing you how to make a valve check and adjustment on a Suzuki V-Strom DL650…

circlenz.co.nz

 

[conquermike]

Well, it is your first time I assume and you are at least trying.

I probably made a lot of mistakes, but sometimes the you have to learn the hard way. We all have different circumstances.

All the info you need is probably here already.

DL650 Valve Adjustment Notes and Tips

Easy one person job to loosen the cam chain & take the cam shafts out. Tricky to find just where to push on the tensioner pawl. The rear tensioner bolt is reached with a wobbly socket on a long extension. Put a wrap of electrical tape around the universal socket so it isn't too wobbly...

www.stromtrooper.com

Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Valve Check and Adjustment tutorial - CircleNZ

Our simple step by step illustrated tutorial showing you how to make a valve check and adjustment on a Suzuki V-Strom DL650…

circlenz.co.nz

Yup first time! I bought the bike sight unseen for $1500 from a friend based on the reputation for longevity.

I'm going to take another whack at it in about an hour and will hopefully have better news to report!

Was really hoping to just use the service repair manual as a resource but with its suggestion to merely lift the tank for this job, it evidently falls short sometimes.