[richw]

Sorry man
Did you get a new stator along with the Mosfet R/R

You can of course check for megohm resistance to ground and see of higher AC voltage from the stator

If they pull your flywheel make sure the see if your magnets have shifted at all ala real shelby

and the connectors

 

[novascotia]

just had the same happen

stator was only putting out 12.4v., both stator and rectifier needed to be replaced on my v1000 2003 at a cost of 240 us....paid the 35 shipping and was delivered as stated......https://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcycles/suzuki/dl_1000/all_categories.htm.......at idle puts out 14.5v

 

[henerythe8th]

Hey Randy,
I have gone MOSFET and not had a failure, yet.

The last stator that went in was not stock, though...

I sent it to a guy @ customrewind.com Oh yeah, their website sucks! Call them!
Phone: 205-798-7282 - Tool Free: 800-798-7282

It took about a week, but was shipped back with heavier windings and epoxy coated.

SO FAR, SO GOOD. Keeping my fingers crossed...

.

 

[OydnaR]

Sorry man
Did you get a new stator along with the Mosfet R/R

ya, June 2010 stator was fried, oem rr was weak

been riding all spring without my auxillary electrics or voltmeter

friday morning, I went to a jobsite early in the am, returned to my office, about an hour later, I went to start my bike to run business errands, bank, po, etc. starter barely turned over, I coasted it down my driveway and it started right up, then I shut it off and it started right up on the starter after running less them 1 minute, I thought maybe my starter was getting weak, went on several short rides friday afternoon and saturday running errands, no problem

this morning, started right up, stopped to get gas, started right up again, 4 miles later, it started sputtering

I'm wondering if I mighta damaged somethg thursday afternoon, I'm working on remounting my scottoiler, I took the left side panel off and hit the area pretty hard with a pressure washer, including the RR

 

[novascotia]

never use a pressure washer

you may have gotten water into the rectifier or into the connections which there are many in that area. Take all connections apart and use an air compressor to air dry them.....

 

[OydnaR]

winter riding bites me again, corrosion on one of the RR connections

 

[henerythe8th]

Corrosion is better than component failure!

Dielectric grease is your friend!

Go to the grocery store and buy yourself one of the big marinade injector syringes.

Go buy a big tube of dielectric grease.
Modify the needle on the syringe by cutting off the end, so that it no longer attempts to inject to the side.
Fill the syringe with the grease and use to inject your connectors 'full' of dielectric grease AFTER cleaning the corrosion from all of the connectors.

The grease will keep out the water, the salt, and the air that facilitates the corrosion.





.

 

[OydnaR]

already done the dielectric thing, its not 100% when ya ride is sh!t like this

 

[tmcgee]

already done the dielectric thing, its not 100% when ya ride is sh!t like this

Randy, get some of this stuff, it's as good as it gets.

http://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT®-Greas...FCCE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1313515200&sr=8-2

 

[OydnaR]

Randy, get some of this stuff, it's as good as it gets.

Amazon.com: DeoxIT® L260 Grease L260Cp, jar copper particles 28 g: Home Improvement

We're sorry. The Web address you entered is not a functioning page on our site

 

[tmcgee]

We're sorry. The Web address you entered is not a functioning page on our site

Try this:

 

[greywolf]

Be careful with that stuff. It's conductive so can't bridge contacts when applied or be allowed to run together later. I'd rather use a dielectric grease. All it has to do is keep the water out. Did you use the plastic connector bodies pictured or just the metal .250" tab connectors? The plastic connectors have good waterproofing at the wires and should fill with dielectric grease nicely.

 

[tmcgee]

Be careful with that stuff. It's conductive so can't bridge contacts when applied or be allowed to run together later.

You don't need much of it to clean up crappy connectors. I put it on with a toothpick.

 

[ozart]

I'm also a big advocate of conductive grease over dielectric (except in specialized applications) and have posted twice about it in the past - here and here. I think the associated link is still good.

One thing to add. When using conductive grease, apply it before the connection is made.

Also, here's more than you wanted to know about an electrical connection.

 

[OydnaR]

You don't need much of it to clean up crappy connectors. I put it on with a toothpick.

OK, I'm convinced I gotta at least try conductive grease

is this something I can find at an auto store (napa) walmart, radio shack, lowes/homedepot ?

I pushed my bike 2 miles into the wee hours of friday morning when returning from a late nite meetring on thursday

same thing again, loss of conductivity in the RR connector to the stator legs

first, I pushed about a half mile to a street light, having an idea what was wrong, I tried unplugging the connection, but I can't get at it with my fat fingers. I also stopped pushing at the light cause it was at the beginning of a slight downgrade, so I unplugged one headlight and clicked it up into 4th gear, gave myself the best push I could with my tippytoes while sitting on the bike to get started rolling and after about 50 feet I was going as fast as it would before leveling off I let the clutch out, it started, I was able to ride another mile before it died again, it was too dark I didn't dare try with no headlights, level going so I puched to my son's house, thinking I'd have to sleep on his porch but his GF works late and just got home so I was able to get a ride the rest of the way home

I got a ride back down this morning, unhooked the charge and rode home, but stopped at my dealer on the way, service manager only rembers what I remember from a few weeks ago, the mechanic that actually works on my bike was off today, so I couldn't pick his brain to verify what he did to what connection, as far as I know, he just unpluged the RR to test the stator legs, cleaned the terminals put some dielectric grease on and pluged it back in and nothing else. the bill wasn't for anymore time than that, cause the total for getting the charging system going and changing oil & filter, was only $60 ($75labor rate+parts& chemicals) since then It's been fine till thursday nite, haven't been riiding a lot, went to the VT adventure caming trip, but since then, and the last week especially, its been raining sometimes torrential, bike is kept under my deck thats semi enclosed with tarps so it doesn't get rained on but its been damp

 

[Heavy-H]

Now mine has had a failure.... Unpluged the stator plug, tested with voltmeter.. Zero volts at the plug....Idle and up.. Looks like the stator is done..........

 

[ozart]

Now mine has had a failure.... Unpluged the stator plug, tested with voltmeter.. Zero volts at the plug....Idle and up.. Looks like the stator is done..........

Man this sucks. I hope it doesn't happen to me in the middle of nowhere.

You guys that've had this problem, were there any early warning signs?

 

[Heavy-H]

I installed a Custom Dynamics voltage monitor last Spring, that was my warning... Was on a ride when it went from green to red... Without that I would have riden till the battery quit...

 

[OydnaR]

Man this sucks. I hope it doesn't happen to me in the middle of nowhere.

You guys that've had this problem, were there any early warning signs?

a voltmeter is the best warning you'll get, when my stator went, I was able to ride at least halfway back to civilization, about 40 miles before it died

I prolly coulda got further if I had thought to unplug headlights

the last 2 times I lots my charging system, I had zero warning cause my voltmeter is disconnected or rather its connected to my auxillary power supply that is disconnected right now till I can figer out how to weatherpoof it