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This may seem like a stupid question, but are the wheels easy to remove from the '12 V-Strom? Do I have to do anything to the ABS to get them off?

I ask because I will be changing my tyres soon and I have never removed the wheels before. So I am pondering whether to do it myself or get the garage to do it for me. (obviously I get a discount if I bring the wheels already off the bike)
 

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You just have to remove the ABS sensor. It's one bolt.
 

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I've had both off.

Front, not too bad but the fender bolts are red locktited on and I don't know how you would get those off.

Rear, easy if the damn snow shovel wasn't in the way. :thumbdown: I was thinking of cutting it off.
 

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Wheels or wheel? Removing both is a challenge to support the bike. You can find a safe way to jack it up and maybe tie it to something above so it won't fall. Or gently lay it over on padding. I put a preventer on the centerstand, pulling it forward so it can't collapse while I'm messin' with the bike. It is a good idea to take pictures of the parts before you remove them in case you don't remember exactly how they go together. It will help with reassembly if you slightly pry the brake pads farther apart in the calipers.

For the front, with the bike on its centerstand, jack under the front exhaust pipe to lift the front tire off the surface a very short distance. Remove the brake calipers and tie them off so they don't hang from the hoses. Remove the ABS sensor. Remove the axle pinch bolt. Remove the axle, and the tire is free (remove anything I forgot about, too). When you put the wheel back on, grease the axle so it comes out easy the next time. Get the speedometer sensor in the correct position. Torque the bolts correctly with a dab of blue Loctite on the caliper bolts.

For the rear, with the bike on its centerstand, loosen the axle, loosen the chain adjusters, remove the ABS sensor, take out the axle, take the rear brake caliper out of the way, get the chain off the sprocket, remove the wheel, take the sprocket assembly off the wheel and take out the rubber cushion dampers (less for the shop to damage or lose). When re-installing, get the brake caliper assembly in its groove correctly, put the axle in from the other side, 'cuz it is easier to handle getting the axle through the brake, etc., put a dab of antiseize on the threads and put the nut on loosely, adjust the chain to give the specified looseness and sight down the chain and sprocket to get it straight, tighten the axle nut to about 58 lbs-ft (79 Nm). If I missed anything here, take care of it as it becomes evident.
 

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Wheels or wheel? Removing both is a challenge to support the bike. You can find a safe way to jack it up and maybe tie it to something above so it won't fall. Or gently lay it over on padding. I put a preventer on the centerstand, pulling it forward so it can't collapse while I'm messin' with the bike. It is a good idea to take pictures of the parts before you remove them in case you don't remember exactly how they go together. It will help with reassembly if you slightly pry the brake pads farther apart in the calipers.

For the front, with the bike on its centerstand, jack under the front exhaust pipe to lift the front tire off the surface a very short distance. Remove the brake calipers and tie them off so they don't hang from the hoses. Remove the ABS sensor. Remove the axle pinch bolt. Remove the axle, and the tire is free (remove anything I forgot about, too). When you put the wheel back on, grease the axle so it comes out easy the next time. Get the speedometer sensor in the correct position. Torque the bolts correctly with a dab of blue Loctite on the caliper bolts.

For the rear, with the bike on its centerstand, loosen the axle, loosen the chain adjusters, remove the ABS sensor, take out the axle, take the rear brake caliper out of the way, get the chain off the sprocket, remove the wheel, take the sprocket assembly off the wheel and take out the rubber cushion dampers (less for the shop to damage or lose). When re-installing, get the brake caliper assembly in its groove correctly, put the axle in from the other side, 'cuz it is easier to handle getting the axle through the brake, etc., put a dab of antiseize on the threads and put the nut on loosely, adjust the chain to give the specified looseness and sight down the chain and sprocket to get it straight, tighten the axle nut to about 58 lbs-ft (79 Nm). If I missed anything here, take care of it as it becomes evident.
A good post but allow me to correct 2 things:

There are no speedometer sensor on the front wheel.

The axle nut is 100Nm on the '12 Strom.
 
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