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Discussion Starter #1
2012 Vstrom 1000 Adventure with 38K miles. I just had a new chain and sprocket put on and went with 3 teeth more in rear. This is probably totally unrelated but just for information purposes. Have put 500 miles on it since. Seems like since the new stuff I hear low whining noise and figured it could be the new heavy duty chain. Now last week it got louder and could notice an increased vibration by just feeling the metal gas tank at highway speeds. Then when I got home and started looking at any possible cause I notice the side cases being so hot you couldn't even touch them. Much hotter than the cylinders or even exhaust. Any ideas before I either unload it for a new bike or bite the bullet and take in to a mechanic? Main bearing? transmission? clutch? (it does seem to be getting noisier with clutch out vs. holding it in at idle in the last year) I just worry that this is not going to be good or cheap to find out. I always figured the engine was bulletproof besides normal stuff. Thanks for any possible ideas.
 

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Is the new chain too tight?

It's VERY common for clueless shop monkeys to set chain slack way too tight on V-Stroms because they're used to pure streetbikes and refuse to read manuals.

Proper chain tension on a bike with longer suspension travel like the V-Strom will seem very slack compared to a streetbike.
 

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Did you change the front sprocket? I would check the chain slack adjustment. The increase in RPM at highway speeds will increase the heat production of the engine and raise the oil temp. Sounds like your clutch may be ready for the chudder fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the fast responses. I have a center stand and always want to check chain tension that way, but once it's on the sidestand or when I stand it up without rider and then with rider of course it gets tighter. What would be the best amount of slack on the center stand and I will check that tonight. As for the rpms I can actually use the 6th gear now and not be doing 80mph which is nice. I am usually at about 5000 rpms at highway speed with the new setup. I didn't think that was too high? What is the chudder fix? Clutch basket?
 

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Maybe you just need better ear plugs?


If chain slack is OK, the other thing is that the stock front sprocket has a rubber damper that takes out a teensy bit of chain noise; once in a while a new Strommer notices the added bit of noise when they change the chain and use an afttermarket sprocket with no damper.

This noise is entirely harmless and FWIW most people never think once about it, never mind twice. If it bugs you, then you can order up an OEM sprocket with the rubber.


Also, there's always a fair bit of clutch noise in idle with the clutch lever out with any V-Strom when the engine is warmed up. This does increase a little with more mileage, and it's also completely harmless. Pull the clutch lever and ponder the reduction in noise. This noise is not chudder.

As far as hot engine cases, yes, they normally get far too hot to touch in operation. The stock exhaust cans are very well insulated, and the exterior gets pretty warm, but usually not hot enough to burn or melt anything. It's a safety feature.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great thanks for all the good information. This is my 2nd set of sprockets so the OEM is long gone. I had that same situation with aftermarket not having the rubber damper on my old bike and yes there is a minor difference. I actually like the bigger rear sprocket except for the speedo saying I'm doing 100mph when I'm at about 80 to 85. Figured I would just find the rpm for the speed limit in 6th and be done with it. As for the pipe temp I was talking about right out of the cylinder not the exhaust. Since the bike is almost 8 years old I just want it to be dependable minus regular stuff and was really worried about something major like bearings but have never read anything about Vstroms having problems with them or any other tranny issues.
 

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A related matter:

I installed a SpeedoDRD on my bike when I went to 17/43 gearing, which on my machine is +2 in the rear. A SpeedoDRD brand widget does the same thing as a Speedo Healer brand device, but it's smaller and less expensive.

A 10% correction makes the speedo nearly spot on, but makes the odo read low (with stock gearing, the odometer is usually very accurate, while the speedo reads about 8% low. Dammit, Suzuki...)

With three more teeth on the rear, you have an even larger speedo error. That would drive me nuts, but it's purely a personal choice.
 

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I have my chain set at the high end of the manual spec(1.25") on the side stand. Type chain slack in the google custom search box, grab a beer or two and start reading. LOL. I wouldn't worry about the RPMs you are still a long way from redline. When you lower the gear ratio the engine has to turn faster to achieve the same MPH as before. More piston speed and combustion events per mile will raise the exhaust and oil temps some.
 

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A related matter:

I installed a SpeedoDRD on my bike when I went to 17/43 gearing, which on my machine is +2 in the rear. A SpeedoDRD brand widget does the same thing as a Speedo Healer brand device, but it's smaller and less expensive.

A 10% correction makes the speedo nearly spot on, but makes the odo read low (with stock gearing, the odometer is usually very accurate, while the speedo reads about 8% low. Dammit, Suzuki...)

With three more teeth on the rear, you have an even larger speedo error. That would drive me nuts, but it's purely a personal choice.
I just ordered drd a few days ago, and they are even smaller than before. I'm reading about 12mph high at 75mph after what seemed like a minor gear change. Looking forward to having it read correctly.
 
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