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You need a 5 volt power supply to power it. It also lacks weather protection for the i/o. Nice meter though.

You could go retro with a Simpson meter:

 

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I've been looking at some 270 sweep analog guages, haven't looked at simpson yet, but I've been to the Marshall, Sunpro & Autometer websites but there all 2-1/16" size, the smaller 1.25 of the Martel works perfect

I found a few that match or compliment the V-strom guages well well, but where do you fit it that doesn't look scabbed on ?



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It draws 50mA. 9v batteries are around 350mAh so it would draw one down in about 7 hours.

You can build a regulated 5v power supply that will run off the bikes 12 volt supply for nearly nothing. LM7805 voltage regulator IC and a few ancillary parts and you are good to go. I've built a bunch of them over the years and they would easily handle a 50mA load without even getting warm.

As to the lack of weather protection, you are on your own ;)

Here's a link to a LM7805 datasheet. All it needs tor fixed regulation is a couple of capacitors.
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM340.pdf
 

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Scott is right about the linear regulator to power it (it's simple and easy), but I'd be nervous about encapsulating it with anything. RTV and the like are corrosive over time....a relatively short time.

It's true that the weather shouldn't be much of a big deal if you install it on the flat black plastic, but I know where you ride and waterproof would be better. :mrgreen: It looks like it would be relatively simple to fabricate some sort of rubber boot for it.



 

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The top flange on that one is grounded. It does come in other package configurations and one of the others might work better. I have encapsulated the entire assembly in epoxy without any problems. I used that TO-220 style and left the top part in the open air since it acts as a heat sink. Since that meter only draws 50mA heat should not be an issue though.
 

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The top flange on that one is grounded. It does come in other package configurations and one of the others might work better.
Yeah, there are lots of variations. It was just a quick example about cost. I'm sure I have a dozen in my "parts department"...

You used epoxy? Like the 2 part quick set stuff?
 

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Yeah, I recommend the $40 Datel meter as well, but I know Randy is looking for an alternative.

And yeah, Scott, they still do encapsulate small modules with various materials. Around 1970 or so, I had a job where we had to open the suckers up and repair them. What a nightmare! They used a combination of materials. Hard on the outside, soft on the inside. These were very dense, 2" by 2" modules with all of the resistors standing on end to fit everything. They were difficult to troubleshoot before they were encapsulated.
 

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I going with this

http://www.rainbowkits.com/kits/vm-1p.html

U build it and its cheap if you do not wanna... ofcourse to locate it where you can read it you need to put wire extensions on the contacts but I am ok with that and making a box to attach those to.
 

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And yeah, Scott, they still do encapsulate small modules with various materials. Around 1970 or so, I had a job where we had to open the suckers up and repair them. What a nightmare! They used a combination of materials. Hard on the outside, soft on the inside. These were very dense, 2" by 2" modules with all of the resistors standing on end to fit everything. They were difficult to troubleshoot before they were encapsulated.
Yeah, I can remember that as well. I recall having to fix something I had built and encapsulated in epoxy. Seems like it was something to do with a connector but I'm not sure. All I remember is grinding that epoxy with a Dremel tool to get to the part I had to fix. I wouldn't want to do it very often ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
. RTV and the like are corrosive over time....a relatively short time.

]
your not familiar with 2 part RTV products ? specificly made for encapsulating electrical components? they've been around for decades, my dad used then back in 60s when he worked for phone company to encapsulate underground cable splices..... some still in service to this day

Arne.... I've don't a fairly good job of intigrating accessories on my stromso that the don't look like scabbed on afterthoughts, nothing wrong with the Datel meter, it just doesn't look the part on my bike and I'm willing to spend a couple bucks more if necessary forit to look right



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Wouldn't someone like BlackLab (the sailing dude) have a decent supply of volt meters or know where to get one that is bullet proof? Usually marine stuff is pretty rugged.
I mounted up a digital Datel into a block of teak that I Rhinolined :)mrgreen:) and mounted to my handguard.


Personally, I would not go with a "sweeping needle" version volt meter. In about one hour's time, the needle would have busted off its pivot shaft, due to excessive vibration, and would be bouncing around, useless behind the glass.

Just my opinion.

B.
 

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your not familiar with 2 part RTV products ? specificly made for encapsulating electrical components? they've been around for decades, my dad used then back in 60s when he worked for phone company to encapsulate underground cable splices..... some still in service to this day
Yeah, I've seen good stuff and bad stuff. You just have to be careful what you choose. On the other hand, I'd rather avoid potting anything or buying anything that's potted. If it fails, you have to toss it.

As Groucho used to say "We played Pottstown. We got panned in Pottstown, or was it potted in Panstown?"

Of course, the Datel meter is potted. :w00t:
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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<snip>
You can build a regulated 5v power supply that will run off the bikes 12 volt supply for nearly nothing. LM7805 voltage regulator IC and a few ancillary parts and you are good to go. <snip>
The power supply to a meter usually has to be isolated from the measured voltage- such as http://cgi.ebay.ie/DC-DC-Converter-Isolated-Power-Supply-for-Voltmeter-Car_W0QQitemZ150380617270QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20091016?IMSfp=TL091016162001r46 . The power supply cannot share a common ground with the voltage being measured. (those tiny isolators, chop the DC to AC, and then rectify it back to DC).
 

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<snip>
Personally, I would not go with a "sweeping needle" version volt meter. In about one hour's time, the needle would have busted off its pivot shaft, due to excessive vibration, and would be bouncing around, useless behind the glass. Just my opinion. B.
Analog meter movements are available as stepper motor gauges (a stepper motor with a gear box, such as GM uses inside their dashboard fuel, volt, speed, tach: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1)-2003---2006-X25-168--GM--GAUGE-STEPPER-MOTOR_W0QQitemZ220494154953QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20091013?IMSfp=TL091013167007r7606) The Vstrom has a similar stepper motor speedo and tach. Google "stepper voltmeter" - because of the 180:1 gearbox, they can withstand a lot of vibration, except the OEM GM ones!
 

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your not familiar with 2 part RTV products ? specificly made for encapsulating electrical components? they've been around for decades, my dad used then back in 60s when he worked for phone company to encapsulate underground cable splices..... some still in service to this day

Arne.... I've don't a fairly good job of intigrating accessories on my stromso that the don't look like scabbed on afterthoughts, nothing wrong with the Datel meter, it just doesn't look the part on my bike and I'm willing to spend a couple bucks more if necessary forit to look right
You have a point, the simplest solution might not always necessarily be the best solution. Will be interesting to see what you decide on. :thumbup:
 
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