StromTrooper banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
2007 DL650 K7
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yet another valve adjustment question: New to me 2007 DL650 with 50K miles, valves reportedly checked at 35K, no adjustments required, no prior history known. Think I’ve read all posts here on the subject, but haven’t seen my little twist of being unable to get the cam lobes to line up like the ones depicted in the service manual.
Human body Rectangle Organism Gesture Font

When I get the proper F mark all lined up, cam lobes are in position B, but manual calls for them to be in position A. Another 270 degree CCW turn lining everything up for the rear cylinder (R), cam lobes are in position A instead of B! I musta twisted the engine over fifty times looking for those cam lobes to line up properly, but it just won’t comply. Camshaft chain link count (16) between the numbers/arrows 2 and 3 depicted in manual (camshaft section of engine chapter) is correct, but starts/ends in the middle of a link vs 8 full links (as depicted in manual), if that makes any sense.
  1. Any idea what could be wrong or what I’m doing wrong? Camshaft chain note above is all I saw out of the ordinary, but this my first VStrom.
  2. What possible difference could it make to clearance measurement if the cam lobes are in position A or B, as long as the valves are fully closed due to the lobe being “towards the top”, I’m going to get the same clearance reading with lobes in either position, aren’t I?
  3. Would it be reckless to measure and adjust clearances with the cam lobes pointing upward, but refusing to lean to the proper slightly inward or outward orientation?
Well, I did measure, all intakes in middle of range, all exhaust valves were right at the lower limit. I intend to move all the exhausts to middle range as soon as get comfortable with (or correct) the slightly improper lobe position.The bike runs well, PO reports 15K trouble free miles since last valve check, reportedly no shims were changed at 35K. Do not know if cams removed in even earlier service, possibly leading to my cam lobe position discrepancy? Anybody experienced this? Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
#1. I am a heretic for saying this but I think your clearances are right where I'd set them. The synchronization of the cams/crank I wouldn't speculate without a manual in front of me. You have to puzzle that out if you're going to lift the cams. Or that your head is right about previous work. I would look at the references of the sprocket marks to the gasket line. If you are a tooth off it won't be in place when the crank mark is. It is good that you stopped before you determined that the book and the alignment didn't square up.
#2 above. The reading of clearances should be kosher as long as you are not near a lobe. .008 is fair dinkum for an exhaust valve. Vstroms have conservative duration anyway and so seat time is all that is gained with excessive lash.
Pm me if you wish.
 

·
Registered
2007 DL650 K7
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Top of this page is a green box. Tap that. Go to conversations. Blue bar at top says create new.
All I can figure out is that I’m on an Apple iPad and my screen doesn’t quite match, I see no green box at top of page, etc. or else I’m just dumb, probably the latter. Back to the cam lobes positioning question. Last Suzuki was a 1978 GS550, which was my introduction to buckets and shims, counting chain links, etc, so I’m fairly comfortable pulling the cams out. I hear your advice on leaving the exhausts alone, but one of them was a real tight .20mm/.008in, had to really shove hard, too hard, so I’m going to open it up. Figure as long as I mark the cams well, keep my 16 links with all the arrows pointing in the correct spot … it’ll probably be okay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
All I can figure out is that I’m on an Apple iPad and my screen doesn’t quite match, I see no green box at top of page, etc. or else I’m just dumb, probably the latter. Back to the cam lobes positioning question. Last Suzuki was a 1978 GS550, which was my introduction to buckets and shims, counting chain links, etc, so I’m fairly comfortable pulling the cams out. I hear your advice on leaving the exhausts alone, but one of them was a real tight .20mm/.008in, had to really shove hard, too hard, so I’m going to open it up. Figure as long as I mark the cams well, keep my 16 links with all the arrows pointing in the correct spot … it’ll probably be okay.
He means his avatar, the green box around the T (above his TinMan88 Name)
If you click on that, you can then click on "start conversation" from the next page
Hopefully you can get to that. Lots of good people willing to help on here. Good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: TinMan88

·
Registered
2007 DL650 K7
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
He means his avatar, the green box around the T (above his TinMan88 Name)
If you click on that, you can then click on "start conversation" from the next page
Hopefully you can get to that. Lots of good people willing to help on here. Good luck!
@K9 Wee thanks for the help, my finger is sore from banging that green box around the T, still no “start conversation” appears for me on next screen, just stats, other conversations, don’t see where to start a new one, I’m still blaming my iPad, but may be ignorance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
At the end of the day, there's only two things that are really important.

#1. You need to measure your clearances with the lobes pointing somewhat away from the shim buckets. Not towards them.
#2. You need to put the cams back in, relative to the cam chain, exactly the way they were.
(Oh, and maybe #3: Don't drop the cam chain as it'll jump a tooth on the center sprocket.)

The procedure in the manual is designed so that you can perform the task with as little rotation of the shaft, with as little thinking, and within as little time as possible. Rotate to F|T, check x4, rotate to R|T, check x4, rotate to front F|T, remove first journal, swap shims, next journal and so on. Time is money where an experienced mechanic is concerned.

But this is your first time on this motor, and your time is less valuable (otherwise you'd let a professional do it anyway). So take your time, just make sure you achieve #1 and #2 (and #3) somehow. Use some obvious paint for #2, and a bungee cord for #3.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,336 Posts
#1. You need to measure your clearances with the lobes pointing somewhat away from the shim buckets. Not towards them.
#2. You need to put the cams back in, relative to the cam chain, exactly the way they were.
(Oh, and maybe #3: Don't drop the cam chain as it'll jump a tooth on the center sprocket.)
Backpacker- It's not possible for the chain to jump(move) off the lower sprocket, because the channel in the case is to tight to allow that. This is true at least on the Stroms.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gert and BackPacker

·
Registered
2007 DL650 K7
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks to all for replying, and I apologize for not getting back immediately, I live in FL and have 3 sets of kids and their families here right now, they don’t understand that grandpa has important work in the garage instead of going to the beach every day.

@Gert I appreciate your listing of previous threads and write ups, used them all and read all the posts. @Blacklab had great pictures explaining how to release the tensioner, @circleNZ set me down right path for link counting F & R, his step 12 was invaluable in getting the R cylinder set up for adjusting vs checking clearance.

@BackPacker and @nvr2old (love the name) and @tinman had very practical advice that agrees with what I thought, so they MUST be right!

Thanks to @tinman and @K9wee for helping connect to a “conversation”.

Back to my original question. Took photo of front exhaust cam chain, showing markings on cam, when F is in the right spot in the window.
Automotive tire Crankset Bicycle part Motor vehicle Rim
Automotive tire Crankset Bicycle part Motor vehicle Rim

When I turn the engine another 360 degrees CCW the cam markings all line up correctly for the R cylinder and almost match the manual. Only difference in both situations (F & R) is that I don’t have 8 full links (as depicted in the manual) between #2 and #3, but 7 full and a 1/2 link on each end between the numbers, still giving me 16 links. Cam lobes are still leaning the wrong way when I put the engine into each clearance check position, but they’re at the top, well off the bucket.

Unless someone tells me it’s really dumb, I’m going to use a zip tie and marking pen to make sure I get the cams back exactly as they are now. Intakes are all in midrange so I’ll just have to handle one cam on each cylinder. I’ll let you know if the bike explodes when I finish the job, otherwise I’ll be back with questions on the next project. Thanks again for all the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,832 Posts
With reference to your pix, your arrow on the first link is pointing to the last pin of that starting link, while the 2nd arrow ponits to the 1st pin of the 9th link. If you had started counting from the 1st pin as a reference on the 1st link, you will see that you actually have counted 8 links in total. It just so happens that in your case, the last pin lines up with the starting reference point based on the timing marks.
If your timing marks are correct, then I would say that you a good to go. Yes, it is a also good idea to cable tie the cam chain as well as to use a maker to make witness / reference marks for both the chain and the cam casing. Lastly snap pix to serve a reference for each step done.
 

·
Registered
2007 DL650 K7
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@Gert Yes sir, the little F is all lined up in the window and the picture is of the front cylinder cam marks. Thanks for the reassurance, I’m removing the front exhaust cam this morning, assuming I get the tensioner released, doesn’t look too tricky. I’ll write back when all done, may be a few days, I’m really slow and plodding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
The biggest risk when something is not quite right, is the valves hitting the piston. So before you button everything up and start the bike, slowly rotate the crank through a full 720 degrees. (No spark plugs = no compression, makes your life easier.)
 

·
Registered
2007 DL650 K7
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The biggest risk when something is not quite right, is the valves hitting the piston. So before you button everything up and start the bike, slowly rotate the crank through a full 720 degrees. (No spark plugs = no compression, makes your life easier.)
Thanks for the tip, would like to avoid catastrophe. Am having same problem as others have reported with the Hot Cams shim set, they give you 3 each of a bunch of shims, I need 4 of the same one as all of my exhausts are right at the lower limit, existing shims were either 170 or 172, so I needed 4 165s, argh. Finished up the front and 1 of the rear exhausts, will go hunting for one more 165 tomorrow. Glad (at least in this case) I don’t have ABS, the tensioner bolt for the rear was actually visible and fairly easy to get to, course I don’t have the tensioner bolt back in yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Just saw a YT vid of a new busa that dropped a valve keeper at red line. He thought it was due to being shimmed wrong from the factory. Gap was too large... :oops:

They didnt cover it under warranty.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top