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Hi,

I fitted a Stebel Compact horn to my K7 650 today, which has Suzuki engine bars fitted. I used a similar method to others seen on here whereby the unused blanked off M10 hole in the n/s cylinder is used. However I wanted the horn to sit a little closer to the radiator so that it was protected more but the horn was still out in the open for maximum sound effect.

I purchased a roofing joist bracket from B&Q for £0.54 and modified it as seen in the picture – the bracket comes with the 3 large holes already drilled and is ideal for the M10 bolt to fit it to the cylinder. I then simply drilled a 6.5mm hole further along and used the Stebel mounting lug with a M6 x 20mm nut and bolt with a shake proof washer to fit the horn to the bracket.

Like others I removed the original horn and fitted the relay in it’s place ( a bit fiddly but possible with patience) – I then used the original horn wires to connect to the relay and ran extra 2mm2 cable from the relay to the horn and then twin cable back to the battery with a 15a fuse holder on the + side.

As you can see it looks snug and the bottom of the horn just rests lightly on the engine bars for extra support – I also fitted a large thick fibre washer between the bracket and the cylinder where the bracket bolts on – this lets the bracket move slightly so should help with any vibration issues.

Hope someone finds this helpful

Regards

Andy
 

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Reverse Perpendicular Mount

I used a ground rod clamp I bought at Lowe's with stainless steel bolts to mount to my Hepco & Becker crash bars. I also added a zip tie(not shown in these pictures) through that small hole on the top side of the compressor seen in the second picture from the left which runs around that the lower crash bar just in front of it. Feels very solid.


IMG_0744-enhanced.jpg IMG_0745-enhanced.jpg IMG_0746-enhanced.jpg IMG_0747-enhanced.jpg

Get's a bit more protection from the front of the crash bars and still faces away from the airflow. Might not drain as well as if it was vertical, but still might not be bad. Sure is loud when you mount it outside the fairing, though.
 

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Xlondl650, just a friendly piece of advice: I see you used shrink tube on your connectors where they plug into the horn and they look good. I think if you ran your horn leads (wires ) inside a long length of shrink tube, it will better protect your exposed wires. and also you may want to zip tie your wires straight and tight inside your guards or where ever possible to conceal them from getting snagged or pulled out of the horn. ;)
 

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Xlondl650, just a friendly piece of advice: I see you used shrink tube on your connectors where they plug into the horn and they look good. I think if you ran your horn leads (wires ) inside a long length of shrink tube, it will better protect your exposed wires. and also you may want to zip tie your wires straight and tight inside your guards or where ever possible to conceal them from getting snagged or pulled out of the horn. ;)
I appreciate the thought.

Although it may be difficult to see from the photos, those black & white intertwined horn wires are ziptied to the crashbar. I never thought about running additional shrink tube over both of them together, though. Might be a good idea, though.
 

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i'm big into concealing and protecting as much as possible when it comes to wires. Shrink tube can offer additional protection and make it easier to blend in and conceal. I go through a lot of shrink tube when ever I do any electrical mods. in areas of high heat or exposed (not hidded under the fairing) i use 2 layers. It sounds very anal.
 

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The plastic accordian sleeving works well for this type of thing as well. Really cleans up the install.
 

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Tech Flex Braided Sleeving

All good ideas but my personal favorite is Tech Flex Braided Sleeving.

It is the same stuff General Motors, NASA, Suzuki, Boeing, and countless others use. You should use it too. Comes in continuous sleeving for new projects and split "F6" sleeving that you can slip sideways over existing wires.

You can finish the ends several ways including tie wraps, shrink tubing, electrical or F4 tape. VERY professional results. The wiring to the PIAA 510 lamps on my Motech crash bars is sleeved in this stuff (among other wires) and it looks absolutely like a factory job, or better.
:mrgreen:
I get mine in both types and several diameters from Whitehorse Gear.
http://www.whitehorsepress.com/product_info.php?products_id=5305
 

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Stebel Wiring Pictures And Where Did You Get The Red Ringed Mag Wheels?

STEBEL WIRING PICTURES AND WHERE DID YOU GET THE RED RINGED MAG WHEELS?

Do you have picture of the relay, horn and wiring routing.

also, WHERE DID YOU GET THOSE RED PIN STRIPED MAG WHEELS ?

I used a ground rod clamp I bought at Lowe's with stainless steel bolts to mount to my Hepco & Becker crash bars. I also added a zip tie(not shown in these pictures) through that small hole on the top side of the compressor seen in the second picture from the left which runs around that the lower crash bar just in front of it. Feels very solid.


View attachment 3301 View attachment 3302 View attachment 3303 View attachment 3304

Get's a bit more protection from the front of the crash bars and still faces away from the airflow. Might not drain as well as if it was vertical, but still might not be bad. Sure is loud when you mount it outside the fairing, though.
 
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