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Been tossing around the idea of going synthetic. How many use synthetic? At what mileage did you switch? What brand? Where do you buy it? I used synthetic (Amsoil, Royal Purple) on my Sportster with no real apparent benefits apart from peace of mind. I am a mechanic by trade and work for a huge bus company (TTC). We do not use synthetic, but we do change oil every 3000 miles (27 litres) and we get very good mileage out of our engines despite them being abused with 100% city driving, full throttle/full brake day in day out. What I see with the Strom is a very good cooling system that should keep dino oil from experiencing extreme heat failure, like faced with an air cooled engine. My guess is that as long as we keep the oil in the bike no longer than manufacturer spec interval of time we should be fine with dino. Most would change before the 6 k kms speced by Zuk, I know I will. Thoughts?

If you use dino oil, what brand? What is your OCI? Do you change the filter each time?
 

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I went to from Petro-Can 15/40 Duron Diesel (dino) to Amsoil 10/40 at 6000 km, and get the Amsoil from the local Honda dealer for $9.99 / L.

I didn't notice any difference in performance / shifting from the dino I was using before. I have thought about going back because I tend to change it out every 4000 km or so and often wonder what I am accomplishing by draining out perfectly good synth so often, but that's just how often I like to change it and won't stop now.

Anyone gone back to dino and regretted it ?
 

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"Anyone gone back to dino and regretted it ?"

Nope, I had a 2003 SV1000s before my DL1000 - switched back and forth between Mobil 1 and Rotella T, have occasionally done the same with my DL , but usually run 15W40 Rotella T (CDN Tire ~$13 / 4L) and Kimpex oil filters ($9). But I think I'm getting cheap as I get older...
 

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I had my 600 mile service yesterday and mentioned to the dealer that my shifting was kind of rough at times. He recommended a Semi-Synthetic (sorry, I did not get the exact type but I think it was Rotella).

After picking it up it shifts beautifully. It is good enough that I made it a point to call the service tech and thank him for the recommendation.

Tom
 

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Been running Rotella Full Synthetic since roughly the first oil change or so. Kenworth Truck stores carry and sell it.. I think it is a bit less than $20.00 for a 4 liter jug.

..Tom
 

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Another big truck mechanic here LOL.

I switched from dino to full synthetic on my Strom after its third oil change. Its first change as at 600km, then again at 1200kms and again at 2000kms with the switch to synthetic and then every 3000-3500 after that with a filter change every time.

Figure this will be the last new bike i can afford for a VERY long time so i going to force myself to take DAMN good care of her even if its a tad excessive.

Iv seen the differance Synthetics make in an auto transmishions with hundreds of thousands of miles in SEVER use in transit buses (works for a while for SN Diesel) so i figure it should show similar effects in an engine.
 

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I use Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic. I changed the oil for a second time at 1000 miles and I will do a change every 3000 miles or so. I do agree with your points of seeing good results on buses with dino oil and that the Strom's cooling system is very good. To be totally honest if I was going to do an oil change I would not feel bad if the Rotella 15W-40 was the only one on the shelf that day at Walmart. I don't exactly baby my bike and oil is cheap insurance.

I cannot comment on the difference between dino and synthetic on this bike. I did previously own a Kawi cruiser and the synthetic oil always seemed to let me find neutral a little easier and nearly eliminated the false neutral problem I was having.

I am by no means an expert and these are only my humble opinions.
 

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Rotella T 5-40 full synthetic at 1900k. Switches way smoother now.
 

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When I purchased my DL650, I followed Calsci's breakin rules.....

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

First 50 miles, slowly get it hot and then run it hard. Change the oil and filter.

500 miles - Change the oil and filter again (switched to Rotella T Synthetic, 5W40).

1,000 miles - Change the oil and filter again.

2,000 miles - Change the oil and filter again.

3,000 miles - Changed the oil and filter again.

and........

I just hit 5,000 miles and I just changed the oil and filter again.

Now, I won't change the oil or fllter again until 10,000 miles (With Rotella T Synthetic, I will be running 5k between changes....Calsci recommends 6k).

I know my regime of changes is probably crazy to everyone, but I think the first 5k in the life of an engine is the most critical. Under no circumstances did I want any 'wear metal' floating around in the oil any longer than it had to. Also, I honestly plan to run this bike 100k miles.

For the record, mostly I have used Mobile 4T Synthetic in previous bikes and I use Mobine 1 Synthetic in all my vehicles. I moved to Rotella with the Strom and couldn't be happier. The bike shifts very smoothly and runs very smoothly.

I know 5k mile changes are beyond the 3.5k mile recommendation in the manual, but I have no worries. Even my buddy who owns and runs a BMW LT has his service done by the dealership and they put in synthetic and have 8k mile intervals. Synthetic simply lasts longer.

Anyway....that is my two cents....
 

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I agree with you and take it one step further for the first five oil changes, I change twice within the first 10 minutes of the new oil just to flush out anything extra that may be floating around. For five extra flushes it cost me about $120 extra and I feel good about it, even if it never is really going to make a difference.
 

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I bought my Wee new.
Rode it home - 37 Miles.
Dropped the oil and put in full synthetic - Shell Rotella from Walmart $16-17 for a US Gallon.
The Wee takes 2.9 quarts per oil change.
I use a Hi-Flo 138 filter that cost $5.60 each.
$18.00 - $20.00 per oil & filter change.

I put 110,000 on an 89 Gold Wing using Mobil 1 full synthetic,
I put 102,000 miles on a 93 Harley Springer Softail using Mobil 1
I put 100,000 miles on a 99 Harley Geezer Glide Classic using Mobil 1

Synthetic is pure clean. Organic has crap in it. Some of you might remember the old frying pan commercial.
Why would anyone want to expose their motor to high heat and rpm's with oil that has built in abrasion, out of the bottle.

And that myth that synthetics make your clutch slip is just that, a myth.

Keep your knees in the breeze!
 

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I haven't heard the synthetics being the problem, but rather the additives that are in a number of energy saving automobile oils being the problem.

..Tom

....
And that myth that synthetics make your clutch slip is just that, a myth.
 

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Synthetic

And that myth that synthetics make your clutch slip is just that, a myth.
Good read, I like synthetic oils, they reduce wear and friction, and hence make it easier for your clutch to slip. I have lots of good expereince using them. However...

I have new clutches and springs in my 82 Yamaha Seca Turbo, if I run synthetic my clutch slips, if I run Castrol 20W-40, it doesn't.

Seen it first hand, but then again the Seca Turbo makes like twice the peak torque that my Strom does, so hence I can run synthetic in the Strom with no issues.

My point is that when pushed to the limits, synthetic oil soaked clutches will slip sooner.

-Steve
 

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AMSOIL has this to say about the issue:
Many people have the perception that since synthetics are more slippery than petroleum oils (which simple don't reduce friction as well), that wet clutch packs in either their automotive automatic transmission or motorcycle transmission will slip when using "super slippery synthetics". Synthetic oil is no more "slippery" than petroleum oil. It simply has a more uniform molecular structure which reduces frictional resistance better than the irregular shape and size molecular structure of a petroleum oil.

Look at it this way. Wet sandpaper removes paint as well as dry sandpaper does. The slipperiness of the water does not impede the sandpaper's ability to function. The same applies to the "slipperiness" of synthetic lubes in wet clutches.

If used dry, the sandpaper is soon filled with paint and no longer works- it slips across the surface without grasping the surface. If kept clean and free of paint, it continues to work. The lubricating/cleaning solution used can be water, soap, oil or any other liquid. The liquid's slipperiness does not affect the performance of the sandpaper.

It is simply not an issue. However, just as rinsing the sandpaper keeps it cleaner longer so it functions better longer, so the synthetic lubricant keeps wet clutch plates cleaner longer so they function better.

AMSOIL synthetic lubricants will prevent deposit buildup on clutch plates, therefore keeping the face clean and able to do its job in preventing slippage.

And, since synthetics are superior cooling agents to conventional petroleum lubes, using synthetics will help wet clutches last longer, too.

Petroleum oils have low resistance to heat and allow varnish and glaze to form on clutch plates, which eventually leads to slippage and increased heat generation and eventually failure of the clutch pack.

Also, AMSOIL motorcycle oils are specifically formulated without any friction modifiers for compatibility with wet clutch packs. AMSOIL ATF lubricants are also designed with specific coefficient of friction values to meet the requirements of each and every specification that it not only meets, but far exceeds.

Now you know the facts. The next time your buddy mentions this as a potential issue, you can explain to him exactly why it is simply not an issue
 

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It's not that I don't like Amsoil, it's that Destro was my (very) local Amsoil distributor when I worked with him. My oil purchases used to involve rotating my chair 90 degrees, and yelling "Hey, Destro, I need more oil!" Then he'd throw something heavy at my head, and 4 days later there'd be a case of Amsoil and some filters on my desk.

Can I say "..the good old days!" here without sounding too much like an old fart?

Still running Amsoil in the T100, of course.
 

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oil changes

im a firm believer in changeing the oil early, but after reading all the horror stories about stripped and worn out threads at the drain hole , i think it may be best to do it as required by the manual , once the bike is broken in
 

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That's the beauty of a good torque wrench. I find if I don't use the TW I end up overtightening the drain bolt some times. Never stripped one before, but much safer to torque it correctly because if you strip it under there it becomes a @#%&* nightmare.
 

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It's not that I don't like Amsoil, it's that Destro was my (very) local Amsoil distributor when I worked with him. My oil purchases used to involve rotating my chair 90 degrees, and yelling "Hey, Destro, I need more oil!" Then he'd throw something heavy at my head, and 4 days later there'd be a case of Amsoil and some filters on my desk.

Can I say "..the good old days!" here without sounding too much like an old fart?

Still running Amsoil in the T100, of course.
Kevin,

Those were the days INDEED! Like you it is not that I don't like Amsoil. Hell I did not even mind being the very local distributor in the shop. What turned me off of the "Amsoil Koolaid" was the way my Power Stroke liked to drink it, and the thought of $20 for an oil sample to maybe tell you that your oil change is way past due. Another thing that got me off of the Amsoil was the idea of going to a Walmart Supercenter and getting a jug of Rotella and then wandering over to the other side of the store for some Koolaid.

So for now let's toast the days of oil receipts in the form of large airborne objects.

You are not an old fart, but you are older than me!
 

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tw

That's the beauty of a good torque wrench. I find if I don't use the TW I end up overtightening the drain bolt some times. Never stripped one before, but much safer to torque it correctly because if you strip it under there it becomes a @#%&* nightmare.
i did read on here of someone who set the torque wrench and stripped the threads
 
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