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Discussion Starter #21
Another good day. Gasket came in for the alternator cover, installed and buttoned up. Front sprocket cover on.

Checked tappet clearances, good to go. Front and rear cylinder specs:

Intake valves 0.006"
Exhaust Valves 0.008"

Clutch basket came in. Will start on it tomorrow. Things are starting to shape up.

Interesting observation. Had to rotate the crank to check the tappets. Only turns one way, CCW - different from my Goldwings.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #22
More done today. Clutch basket came yesterday. Did the change this morning/afternoon. Took just over 3 hours, very straight forward and removal/install went well with the aid of Terry's video. Make sure you have a 30 mm socket on hand. Now have a clutch basket tool and 30 mm socket to store until next time.

Started to put parts back on the bike. New coolant, air box on, put in two additional wire harnesses - 16/18 GA wires just in case and won't have to remove tank to do work.

Have to read up on the Holeshot Tuner and Speed Healer.

Oil filter change tomorrow and new oil. Have sign on air box to remind me to do this work. Sometimes get going and want to get the engine started, and have missed an item.

New tail/brake lights to install as well. Ordered the clutch slave oil seal cup, will install when it gets here.

Spring maintenance/work period will be for new fork oil, fork refurb, possible CC and self cancelling signals, and TB sync. Will be adding to this list as I go.

Bought a Canadian chain clean/lube product - Tirox Ultra Chain Lube and chain cleaner. Good reviews and support the Canadian economy. Chain cleaning tool is quite ingenious - YouTube video on this small item is complimentary. Here's a video on the cleaner tool:

Possible to have the engine started tomorrow.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Didn't get as much done as I wanted to. Had to buy an oil filter, generally have 2/3 extras in my parts bin(s). Clutch slave parts came in, had to go out and get those.

Installed the Holeshot Tuner and was reading the instructions. Mentioned an O2 sensor, looked for one and cannot find, no issues here.

Packaged up the old clutch basket and sent back to Werk's. While packaging noticed that it sounded like a tambourine. I could see 3 of the 6 springs move. Shouldn't be and with only 65K Kms on the basket, not a good design. Pic attached - the three springs identified are the ones that are rattling. This indicates to me that 3 springs are doing the work of 6, and this does not work well.

Went a bit further and looked into the action of a clutch, specifically these springs. What I found is that these springs actually drive the clutch by keeping, in this case the clutch basket, the clutch loaded and with each cylinder firing, there is no ability for the clutch to rattle. With weak springs, there is not enough tension on the clutch basket to keep it loaded when the next cylinder fires, hence the rattle/chudder in the clutch. This is one of the YouTube videos I watched in my search for information, look at the 16 min time:
The other design changes/issues that Terry has addressed make the reworked clutch basket that much better as well. Sort of like putting a bicycle style steering stem bearing on a motorcycle, taper roller bearings are so much better.

Reading the various threads on this issue, I found that there are you can do fixes that address the symptoms and not the issue. One of these is changing the front sprocket to a 16 tooth from the 17 tooth as installed by the OEM. This keeps the engine RPM up and the clutch basket better loaded, but does not fix the inherent problem. The OEM produces these bikes with parts that are "good enough" for a certain number of Kms/miles, after which the owner of the bike is on their own. Honda does it with its Goldwings, suspension goes weak/soft after 60K to 70K Kms, and there is a huge aftermarket industry to address the symptoms of a weak/soft suspension that is easier for the owner to do then to lay out a good chunk of change for a better suspension.

The only way to address this issue is to replace the clutch basket, OEM or a reworked one. The clutch basket may not self destruct, but the issue is not going to go away.

I must caveat the above in that it is my opinion, and only that. I was very surprised by what I found considering the low Kms on the engine.

I had asked a few posts ago about the engine rotation. It does rotate both ways, CCW is easier than CW. CW takes a bit more elbow grease.

Hopefully have the engine operating today. Looking forward to an improvement in the engine.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Worked on the bike today to get the engine started and test out the new mods. Oil and filter done, had a sign on the air box to remind me.

Hooked up the gas tank and got the bike ready to go.

Started up quite easily; however, the Holeshot Tuner is not performing as expected. Turn key on and the green light flashes until the fuel pump stops. Stare the engine and the red/green/yellow LEDs flash at idle. Increase RPM to above 2K and the green LED is on steady, other two are off. Come back down to an idle and all three LEDS flash. Tried the test for fuel control using the #1 pot - green LED - no change in engine sound/RPM.

Somethings working because I can rev the engine up, had it up to over 5K.

Bit disappointed because I was looking forward to riding it and feel the difference with the new clutch basket installed. Thankfully I have another bike to ride so I'll wait until Monday and contact Holeshot to discuss the issue.

Have an electrical fault to find and fix, has to do with the heated clothing/hand warmers. Tomorrow's project.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Not much done yesterday except pondering why the Holeshot Tuner is working the way it is. The issue is with engine operation RPM between 1300 (idle RPM) and approximately 2000 RPM.

Having read as much as possible in a short time, I am of the mind that the stock ECU idle circuit is at a specific level that the Tuner recognizes engine idle the same as when the engine is deceleration. The instructions indicate that on deceleration, the tuner may flash all three LEDs because the stock ECU apparently reduces injector pulses such that it appears the injectors are not being pulsed. Will be talking to Holeshot this morning regarding this issue.

While I am waiting, I may manually increase the engine RPM until the red/yellow LEDs go out and the Green LED is on steady. At this point the instructions indicate a small test to ensure the Tuner is controlling the engine using the Green LED pot. Will test this.

My thoughts above are just my opinion, it will get sorted out.

Replaced the oil seal on the clutch slave as well. Clutch slave was reasonably clean. Easy fix.

Realshelby commented on my JB weld rotor mod in a different thread, in that the amount of JB weld between the magnets may not be sufficient. He mentions that there has been reports of a couple of other JB weld fixes that were done in a similar manner - half bead versus full length bead - and have failed. I will "BF" this for May next year to do a follow up, a bit of preventative maintenance never hurts.

More to follow. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Bike back together and a road test as well. Very pleased with the results.

Had mentioned that I was seeing an Xmas tree lighting scenario from the Tuner. Contacted Dale at Holeshot yesterday and he got back to me first thing this morning. The instructions are not as detailed as could be, but Dale will answer your tech questions. The Xmas lighting effect, all 3 LEDs flashing, is normal at idle for this V-Twin. This changes as the engine warms up, mine stayed with the Xmas lighting effect, and changes when under load and moving.

The two major changes were the Holeshot Supertune Tuber and the clutch basket mod install. Did the speed healer as well - dialed in and compared against my Garmin GPS - happy with the speed healer.

Would have liked to do the tuner and clutch basket separately to determine how these would be, but time and the fact I wanted to get it back on the road did not allow for this.

The engine operated much better, quite pleased with the end result(s). The rattle/chudder that was there is gone. Able to operate the engine in the 3000 and above range in all gears without having to be as concerned about the gear the engine is in. Pulls well even in 6th. Tested it down to 2500 RPM in various gears, and as long as you don't lay into the bike, the bike speed will increase as you roll on the throttle. This is true for any bike, but once in the power band you can crack on as you please.

The tuner influence was evident as well. The engine seemed to be smoother when accelerating not just because of the new clutch basket, but the fuel tune as well. The engine was much smoother on when steady cruising and during acceleration.

I had read in a thread about the Holeshot Tuner and how the engine operated cooler than before the install of the Holeshot Tuner. The fellow mentioned that the engine operating temp under load and in stop/go traffic with the tuner installed was always at 2 bars, where before it would rise to 3 bars. This is beneficial in that the rad fan stays off more often saving precious power for other items, and much easier on the engine. It indicates to me that the engine is less lean in the fuel department. Fuel economy may be impacted a bit, but the better performance of the engine is worth a bit more fuel.

Did the PAIR system changes as well.

Have installed LED headlights and tail/brake lights. Like the tail/brake lights, good illumination and brake lights are quite bright. Will be going for a ride this evening to see how the headlights are in the dark.

The smart turn signal unit arrived today. Would have liked it last week before I had started to put the bike back together. Gives me a chance to read up on it again, and get my ducks in a row so to speak. Next time we get a not so nice riding period, will be tackling this install.

Still pleased with the Vee as a whole. Each change/maintenance/work that I do improves the ride quality and performance in my mind.

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What PAIR changes did you make?

Are you running the secondary throttle things, or did you remove them?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
What PAIR changes did you make?

Are you running the secondary throttle things, or did you remove them?
The PAIR changes are IAW Dale's recommendation video. Capped the valve and air box connections.

What are the secondary throttle things? Do you mean the throttle balancing plates in the throttle bodies?
 

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Packaged up the old clutch basket and sent back to Werk's. While packaging noticed that it sounded like a tambourine. I could see 3 of the 6 springs move. Shouldn't be and with only 65K Kms on the basket, not a good design. Pic attached - the three springs identified are the ones that are rattling. This indicates to me that 3 springs are doing the work of 6, and this does not work well.

The only way to address this issue is to replace the clutch basket, OEM or a reworked one. The clutch basket may not self destruct, but the issue is not going to go away.

I must caveat the above in that it is my opinion, and only that. I was very surprised by what I found considering the low Kms on the engine.
Worn clutch baskets will show more spring movement. The inner plate they push against will be loose. But don't mistake loose springs for a problem right away! The springs you indicate in the picture are the third stage springs. These come in last, are by far the strongest. And in a new or modified basket there WILL be slack in these. Two of the remaining springs are the second stage, and those too will be somewhat loose in a new or modified basket. These come in right away and are in tension most of the time the bike is going down the road. The first stage spring should be more or less without slack in a new or modified basket, but can show slack in a worn basket. Part of what I do in modifying these baskets is make sure the springs are timed properly and working with the correct amount of spacing in their pockets. All the springs being the same and all timed the same would be a much rougher feel from the basket.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Worn clutch baskets will show more spring movement. The inner plate they push against will be loose. But don't mistake loose springs for a problem right away! The springs you indicate in the picture are the third stage springs. These come in last, are by far the strongest. And in a new or modified basket there WILL be slack in these. Two of the remaining springs are the second stage, and those too will be somewhat loose in a new or modified basket. These come in right away and are in tension most of the time the bike is going down the road. The first stage spring should be more or less without slack in a new or modified basket, but can show slack in a worn basket. Part of what I do in modifying these baskets is make sure the springs are timed properly and working with the correct amount of spacing in their pockets. All the springs being the same and all timed the same would be a much rougher feel from the basket.
Terry - thanks for the info. Interesting engineering design and sometimes hard to understand. Having mentioned this, quite pleased with the end result.

Went for another ride last night to check the headlights and very pleased with the installed LEDs. The engine worked well and I notice that it is now as smooth at 3K RPM as it was at 4K RPM - gear dependent of course, significant improvement. Below 3K RPM appears to be gear dependent. The lower gears work well 2500 RPM and above, but the taller gears are sluggish. Nearing 2K RPM, I found it's best to not be there, but the lower gears only.

The Reader's Digest version is I'm pleased.

Looking up info on the Smart Turn System. Seems a straight forward install. Have an email to the company regarding the turn switch style. Will also be querying the 4-way flashers and how these are integrated/affected.

Chain clean and lube this week. Using the Tirox products. Good reviews and a Canadian company.

Cheers
 

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The PAIR changes are IAW Dale's recommendation video. Capped the valve and air box connections.



What are the secondary throttle things? Do you mean the throttle balancing plates in the throttle bodies?
We're probably talking about the same thing: the 2nd set of butterfly plates at the top of the throttle bodies (nearest the airbox). I'm wondering if you removed them or left them in and connected?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #32
We're probably talking about the same thing: the 2nd set of butterfly plates at the top of the throttle bodies (nearest the airbox). I'm wondering if you removed them or left them in and connected?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Left them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Looking into a suspension upgrade for my Vee. Have been perusing the forums and have found a lot of good info.

Have found, bookmarked and printed out:

https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2014-2016/421521-vee-2-suspension-sasquatch-race-tech.html#post5358259
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2014-2016/419227-vee-2-front-fork-cartridgeupgrade.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2014-2016/426467-suspension-update-2018-dl1000-xt-notes-grimmer.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-2017/418029-front-fork-springs-upgrade.html
Suspoension Review/Report - https://drive.google.com/file/d/11M9XZqae_p_Jp0rvmte4l3jd1xpanNaW/view
Low Speed Damping - https://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm
High Speed Damping - https://www.peterverdone.com/archive/highspeed.htm

Think this is enough to keep me busy for a while. Also viewing some YouTube videos regarding suspension and how it should be setup.

I'm not going to do anything with the OEM suspension at this time as it isn't that bad; however, I'll caveat this with the fact that after a suspension upgrade/renewal, I should notice a difference.

My plan is to upgrade the front fork springs, looking at Sonic straight rate springs, then do the rear shock.

Have some options regarding the rear shocks from inexpensive to a reservoir shock. Each has its merits and expense.

My riding will be primarily 85% road and solo, probably without a load, and some hard packed dirt roads. The remaining 15% will be two up and close to loaded capacity of some 450 lbs. I'm 6'2" and 220 lbs and with bike gear approximately 235 lbs.

More to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
On the phone this morning with Accelerated Technologies in Ontario. My budget is approximately $2000.00, but can accommodate some flex because I'm in Canada and on Vancouver Island.

There is a suspension shop in Abbotsford - RMR Suspension - will call as well.

Talked to John Sharrad about the options for my 2012 Vee.

There are several front fork options, the least expensive is to refurbish the existing fork configuration, basically new valving (modify existing?) and new spring. New fork components, put back together and ready to install. Have to provide sag measurements. Cost CDN dollars approximately $800.00 - half is probably labour. Mentioned in a different post that Traxxion has a cartridge replacement for the front forks at approximately $1000.00 USD. Drop in and gpo I'm told as well as being able to transfer to another bike depending.

The shock we discussed was the Hyperpro shock and as you can imagine this took the longest time.

We did discuss the install that David Booth did, but his setup is on the higher end that I do not think I need. I do like the Traxxion cartridges he installed - had the Traxxion "full monty" done on the 1800 Goldwing I owned - transformed the bike. The rear shock for his bike is different from the one needed for my bike. He has the Tourtech and the version he has is not available for my bike. Contacted a Tourtech dealer in Seattle and was informed that there was only one Tourtech shock available for my bike - model number 058-0025 at $800.00 USD. Would have to go to Seattle to pick up - no shipping to Canada. Not a lot of features, but a new emulsion style shock would be an improvement.

Tourtech had a front fork kit - springs and oil only - at $230.00 USD.

Back to the Hyperpro shocks. The shock prices ranged from $800.00 CDN to approximately $1500.00 CDN for the resevoir shock with remote hydraulic preload adjuster, remote reservoir and hi/lo speed dampening. I mentioned that I was going to be back in Ontario for Xmas and discussed this option with John. I would remove forks and deliver to his shop, and pick up before I return home. Would save some $200.00 in shipping and minimize bike downtime - another option.

Have been reading the various threads regarding DIY, and having to deal with US companies, and considering exchange rates, possible duty and taxes (hit and miss on the tax issue) best option may be to have a suspension shop do the work.

Going to call Traxxion again and confirm what is needed and refresh my memory on its product - keeping in mind the exchange and other potential costs.

Not only is the theory and practical aspect of motorcycle suspensions a good learning curve, but the parts/pieces, removal and install is a challenge to do as well considering costs, time, and such.

Lots to consider. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Had breakfast with a friend who I sailed with in our Navy. He retired back in the late '80s and in retirement worked on HDs and toured a lot with his wife and friends. We had a good catch up on our summer touring. He now does RV trips, left here in mid May and just got back from across Canada and down the east coast, they had a great trip/time.

Back to the issue at hand, we were discussing motorcycle suspension. He told me a story of when he and a friend with their wives headed south to Texas on HD shovelheads. He took the time to install a seat for he and the Mrs that made the trip enjoyable. His friend did not and each day ended in agony.

I asked for his opinion on what suspension to install. His take was the best I could afford because roads in the Victoria area and on the island are not always the best.

With this in mind, going to do the Hyperpro reservoir shock, and Traxxion AK-20 cartridges for the forks. The Traxxion AK-20 system can be rebuilt and fully adjustable as are the Hyperpro shocks. The Traxxion cartridges can be transferred from bike to bike so I will be keeping the OEM internals if/when the bike is sold - same with the rear shock.

Will be purchasing in two steps to minimize the pain.

I have mentioned that OEM suspension is soft from the get go, and after some 30K to 40K Kms, cease to be as effective as one would require. The only part of the motorcycle that keeps the tires firmly planted on the road.

Thinking the Vee could replace the 1500 for road trips, keeping my '85 1200 Limited Edition for a number of reasons. Good suspension can never be overrated.

Now I have to figure out how to put passenger arm rests on.

I have looked into different foot pegs for myself and passenger. Some have used foot pegs from a GL1500 for the rider/passenger. Going to test fit the ones on my 1500 and see how these work for myself. For the passenger, have an old set of highway foot pegs that could work nicely. Will be fitting test fitting these as well. Looking into lowering the passenger foot pegs as well.

Passenger comfort is paramount for trouble free motoring, and because of this, spend a lot of time thinking about ways to make my passenger very comfortable.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Finished up this maintenance/work period. Have learned that I can leave the gas tank connected and just lever it out of the way. Most everything underneath can be done.

Checked the TB sync. It was good. Left the vacuum hoses attached and secured these with a tie wrap strap to the mounting where the RPM can be adjusted on the right side of the bike.

Installed the STS self cancelling signals. Installed the unit underneath the seat. Works well, but chose not to put in the little foam inserts into the signal light switch because the switch goes back to "centre" when let go. I am finding out that this may not be the best to do because the system works but not 100%. Cannot cancel the signal by using the switch lever, don't know why, but can cancel by activating the 4 ways. Will be contacting the company and asking the question. Do like having the self cancelling feature.

I took the connectors off the unit and installed OEM style connectors. Find these much better, take up less space and allow for easy changes. I did the same when I connected into the OEM wiring forward. This way I can easily revert back if necessary.

Only have the suspension and brake refurb to do. I'll take some time now just to enjoy what I have done and have.

The attachments are:

Tank levered up and supported with cords.
Usable space under tank.
STS Install.

Cheers
 

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Nice! Looks clean under there; great job!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
WildDoktor - Thanks. Reading your refurb thread. Very interesting. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Have decided on the suspension upgrade that will be done. Not a lot of choice of suspension shops up here in the fast becoming frozen north.

Going with RMR Suspension in Abbotsford, BC. Have dealt with Rod on several occasions to upgrade the suspension on my GWs.

Have contacted manufacturers and if it is offshore, I'm directed to the NA distributor, then to a dealer. Such is life, everyone wants a piece of the pie.

Going with the Nitron R2 rear shock, want the separate compression/rebound adjustment and with the HPA. Andreani fork cartridges - good bang for the buck on the fork cartridges. Will have rebound/compression and preload external adjustments. The rear shock has the exchange applied - ouch - a good $0.35 on the dollar.

Last of the major upgrades to this bike. Should be done this year, if not early next year. Thankfully I have a couple of other bikes to ride when this one is down for the change.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Have finished installing the STS in my 2012 VStrom DL1000. It is functioning quite well, about 95% right now. When I turn on the key, signals flash as per the instructions. I have used OEM style connectors instead of the ones provided, my preference and makes a neat install.

There are some peculiarities.

Have mounted the STS unit under the seat behind the battery - see attached pic. It is mounted as per instructions. It sits on a metal "L" bracket with double sided tape holding it against the side wall, and is on a fused circuit.

The signal unit does not cancel as per the instructions. I can cancel the signal using the 4 way flasher switch.

I can always get the signals to work; however, it is intermittent. The unit will sometimes activate the selected signal with a push of the switch in the direction needed. Other times I have to push the signal switch to the opposite signal and back to the signal wanted - for example to go left I have to signal right then immediately go left, or to go right I have to signal left then immediately right.

I have taken pics of the signal switch to illustrate that I cannot use the foam pieces in the switch and sent to manufacturer for comment. The pics of the signal to the left/right shows how the lever sticks out from under the switch cover.

This bike has 4 way flashers that are connected into the signal wiring.

The last picture shows the wiring diagram and where I spliced into the wiring harness.

Overall, I still like the unit as it meets my requirements.

I have sent email to company asking for assistance.

On another note, glad I have an older Vee as the gas price here in Victoria jumped 16 cents the other day to $1.579 per litre, ouch. Premium is at least another 20 cents.

Expect to be taking the front forks off this week for delivery to RMR. Going to be a nice upgrade and refurb to get the Vee back to better than OEM. Then it's time to just ride and enjoy.

Cheers
 

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