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Discussion Starter #1
Have been putting my thoughts in order now that I have my new-to-me 2012 DL1000 at its new home. Even though I was assured the requisite maintenance was done, want to have a baseline for this new bike, and as such, will be doing maintenance/work over the next 8 months.

I have been looking at the wiring for the aftermarket add ons and it is done quite well. This wiring is for the heated hand warmers and heated gear - both on a switched circuit. The OEM horn was replaced with an air horn that is quite good, and of course the last mod was for the headlights. Like what was done so any changes will be done closer to the end of the maintenance/work period, if at all.

The RR recall was done, and it is a shunt type RR. I have a Compufire series RR coming and will be installing it shortly after it gets here. I asked my local Suzuki dealer if there was any outstanding recalls - gave VIN - and all is up to date.

Standard maintenance will be:

plugs
air filter
check valve lash
rad coolant change
oil/filter change
front fork oil change
LED headlights (near end)
turn signal and brake LEDs (near end)
Looking at the fuel filter mod
Accessory fuse block install
LED driving lights
Volt/Amp meter install
USB connector
Holeshot Supertune Tuner install
Speed Healer install
Smart Turn System install - like self-cancelling signals
New tires needed next year. Looking at the Shinko 705 (approximately $270.00 CDN for the pair), or the Michelin Anakee 3 (approximately $350.00 CDN for the pair)

16 tooth front sprocket - the OEM sprockets are 17/41 that gives a final ratio of 2.41. Installing a 16/41 combination apparently gives a 2.56 gearing ratio. The difference isn't much, but an increase in RPM for any given gear could be beneficial, especially in 5th and 6th gears. Juries still out on the benefits, but have read that this is advantageous. More to follow.

Looking into a suspension upgrade as well as the clutch basket mod. Between these two I think the clutch basket mod will be done first. Will contact Werks for a brief discussion.

Researching throttle locks and cruise control. Would have been nice on the trip out from Ontario to BC.

Have been looking at the oil around the sprocket cover to ascertain where the oil is coming from. The shifter seal looks well worn, but understand there are a couple of other areas that may be leaking. Will have to delve into this and clean up the area. When I was looking at this area and moving the shifter I noticed that the shifter lever was loose. Tightened the bolt that keeps the shifter on the shift shaft spline. Noticed that the shifter bushings were loose and will look at what can be done to tighten up this aspect.

Note to self, when delving into the maintenance/work, check securing nuts and bolts.

Looked at a thread on chain lube to use. Interesting difference shown, recommends Dupont Teflon Multi Lube or Belray Super Clean. Will investigate further.

Have the OEM service manual. One of the first items I try to acquire when I get a new bike, or a used vehicle.

My objective is to do as much up front so that I enjoy the fruits of my labour, instead of doing the work then selling for someone else to enjoy. In doing my research into the various items, I noticed that the performance and quality of ride when improved has resulted in owners keeping this bike longer. My '85 Goldwing has over 160K Kms of which I put on some 40K Kms since 2016, and my 1500 has over 174K Kms of which I have put 21K Kms on the dial since last summer (I'm retired and like to do trips solo or two up). Both these bikes will be around for a while, great for two up touring.

I don't expect any earth shattering issues when I get going on the maintenance/work, but if there is I will post.

Cheers
 

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A reminder to test ride your Vee after each mod. From experience, too many changes done at one time makes it difficult to back trace a possible failure. Testing after each individual mod allows the option of reviewing where you previously worked. Don't forget to snap some pix. They are helpful if there is need to back trace, as well as if posted, to serve as guide to any up and coming DIY person attempting the same type of mods as yourself. Best of luck, take your time and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice. Only items that I feel need to be looked at in this light are the Supertune Tuner, Clutch basket mod, and 16 tooth sprocket. All others are maintenance, and/or won't affect the operation of the bike. I was thinking back on my ride of a 2018 Vee in August, and how much smoother it was when accelerating and shifting. The clutch basket mod should be a good addition.

I am interested in the electrical system amp usage and that is why I'm installing an amp meter. Voltage is good to know, but doesn't tell the whole story.

I will probably be investing some 3K CDN into this bike, but it will be for upgrades/mods that I want and believe the bike needs to bring it back to as new a condition as is practical - doing it upfront so I enjoy them. Even with this investment, I will not have spent what my friend paid for his 2010 Tiger 1050. He has been shopping every since to make the bike his. We have found that there are more aftermarket items for the Vee than for his Tiger.

I thought of a new Vee and the prices are quite good compared to the other OEM adventure sport touring bikes. Even so, My investment will still be good considering that outfitting a new bike to fit me and to install additional items such as heated hand warmers, etc raises the cost of a new bike as well.

I also prefer the two gauge dash, looks so much better.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have started the parts process. Ordered the Supertune Tuner, Speed Healer and 16 tooth sprocket from Holeshot.

I agree with the Tuner concept because of the emission requirements the OEM has to meet. Vehicles, especially bikes, snowmobiles, etc are leaned out from the factory to meet these standards. The engines operate hotter when this is done and performance is sacrificed. This is the primary reason for the changes most make to the HD before getting the HD out of the shop. The HD is chocked so much to meet the emission standard(s), not to say a redesign of the engine in total wouldn't hurt.

My son-in-law's 2014 Moto Guzzi California touring bike - 1400 cc - suffers from this as well. There is an aftermarket fix similar to the Supertune Tuner for the VStrom, but he has not made the leap yet.

Ordered a replacement clutch basket with tool and gasket from Werks parts. Good chat with Terry regarding the issue and the overall impact on the Vee mindset. Opted for the exchange program to keep downtime to a minimum.

I'm of the opinion that the Supertune Tuner and the Werks clutch basket mod will bring the engine back to as close as possible to new. Once I get these two items installed and tested, going to do a demo ride again with a new 2018/2019 Vee to compare, should be interesting.

Once these items are received and installed, the rest will be standard maintenance work. Going to be an excellent ride. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Had an email from an acquaintance in Sacramento CA and I had mentioned that I was going to do the clutch basket mod on my VStrom. He has an older GS 1100 and had to do a clutch mod as well. Original basket received a thicker gauge backing plate, stiffer springs, and the three rivets that hold assembly to the gear are bigger in diameter and are welded in place. He upgraded the clutch hub with one from a GS 1150 (1984 through 86), steel spline more robust than the GS 1100.

It's good to know that there are other bikes out there that require a mod or two to get them up to good working order.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Parts in:

Compufire series RR
Holeshot Supertune Tuner
Holeshot Speed Healer
16 tooth front sprocket

Parts en route:

Werks Clutch basket
Smart Turn System

Will be starting the installs this week.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did some work yesterday. Installed the Compufire series RR, and laid in the Holeshot Supertune Tuner (hook up this weekend). It's working well, steady at 14.1 VDC when moving. Found that the brake lights are a power draw, switching to LEDs, and the headlights will be changed as well.

Was able to connect into the existing OEM system. The instructions for these units is to go directly to the battery, but this is not necessary. The unit is quite compact compared to the Shindengen SH847 ( had one that I gave to an acquaintance in Sacramento - he reciprocated by sending me the Compufire), and fits where the OEM RR was located.

Picture attached. The silver bracket is to keep the unit from rotating if the bottom securing bolt comes loose.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Reading the OEM service manual last night to find where connectors and such are, what I have to do to check the valve lash, and it's more interesting than the news.

Paid attention to the rad fan. When it comes on, the voltmeter lets you know. Spec in the manual is if the amp reading is above 5, replace. Did some math and it can draw up to 60 watts when operating (P=IXV). This is a huge power draw. Going to look around at the local electronic shops to see if I can find a similar sized fan that draws a lot less power. A lot of my riding is city and the fan comes on a lot. I did read a report on the Holeshot Supertune Tuner in that once it was installed the engine operated much cooler, not going over the two bars on the temp gauge. Hoping this will happen after I install this unit this weekend.

Cheers
 

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Just for grins, when you have the oil drained, open that left side case and check your magnets...and do the jb weld fix if it's not already done. Also, check your stator for burn marks or the beginning of the "rubbing" that kills these stators.

I know you mentioned that you're steady at 14.1 VDC, so it doesn't sound like there's an issue in there currently; but it can't hurt to check! Bummer is you'll need the $15 gasket unless you're handy and can make your own. (But the oem gasket is partially metal (it sticks to the magnets when you get it close to them), so...not sure that kind of gasket material is available for DIY?)
 

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Another thing to check is the ignition coil primary resistance. The manual gives a range of 2-5 ohms. Doesn't sound like much of a difference until you do the math. At your voltage of 14.1 the power draw of both coils combined can range from approx 200 Watts at 2 ohms versus 80 Watts at 5 ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just for grins, when you have the oil drained, open that left side case and check your magnets...and do the jb weld fix if it's not already done. Also, check your stator for burn marks or the beginning of the "rubbing" that kills these stators.

I know you mentioned that you're steady at 14.1 VDC, so it doesn't sound like there's an issue in there currently; but it can't hurt to check! Bummer is you'll need the $15 gasket unless you're handy and can make your own. (But the oem gasket is partially metal (it sticks to the magnets when you get it close to them), so...not sure that kind of gasket material is available for DIY?)
Had a chat with the PO yesterday, get more info from him every time. He replaced the stator and RR 2 years ago. I mentioned I had installed a Compufire series RR in place of the one he had installed. He mentioned he got it from Rick's Motorsports and that is an upgraded RR using MOSFET technology. The issue here is that it is still a shunt type RR. The MOSFET components replace the older style SCR technology. Works quicker, more efficient, but is still a shunt RR.

Have been thinking about the rotor magnets. Will be going for a look after I get the Tuner and clutch mod installed. Have to look into the oil leak that I see on around the front sprocket case and get it fixed/cleaned up.

The newer rotors have the magnets encapsulated. Wonder if the newer stator would fit a 2012. My 1985 Goldwing has encapsulated magnets so the issue is not new. HD had the same issue with its rotors.

Thanks for the advice. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Another thing to check is the ignition coil primary resistance. The manual gives a range of 2-5 ohms. Doesn't sound like much of a difference until you do the math. At your voltage of 14.1 the power draw of both coils combined can range from approx 200 Watts at 2 ohms versus 80 Watts at 5 ohms.
Will check. Thanks. Like to use 14 VDC whenever I do calculations because the system is actually 14 VDC and not 12 VDC. If it was a 12 VDC system, the RR set point would be at 12 VDC. Another issue is all the electrical components are rated for 14 VDC, if not these would be failing whenever the engine is started. It's also why lights dim when the voltage in the electrical system heads south towards 12 VDC, and brighten when the voltage goes the other way.

Cheers
 

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My bike is all stripped down so I am looking at everything. My coils register about 4.5 ohm resistance. I suspect only a few bikes would have issues, but it happened to me on an old KZ750 Kawasaki.
 

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I'm pretty sure I have a Ricks stator in mine. The PO installed mine as well. Ricks supplies the stator without the connector attached. The buyer has to crimp the connectors on. I found the wires pulled out of my connector, so suggest you check the plug and maybe solder the terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Started taking the plastic and tank off the bike to install the Holeshot Tuner and Speed Healer for the speedometer. Emptying the tank was the most time consuming for this part. Used a self priming siphon hose from Canadian Tire, but getting it to pump took time, once primed went well. Note to self however, operate the bike to get as much fuel out as possible - if done won't have to siphon any gas.

Getting the injector connectors off was a bug bear as well, not a lot of room. Once I did get the connectors off, did not take long to finish.

The speed healer connector went on easily, the speedometer connector is exactly where the manual shows.

Going to do as much as possible with the tank and plastics off. Waiting for the Smart Turn Signal unit. LED headlights should be in today.

Looked into the spark plugs. Rad may have to come off, don't know if there is much room to pull it forward. Want to change the coolant anyway.

Will be inspecting the stator/rotor assembly. Have to look for an oil leak around the front sprocket. Expect it is just a seal.

Will take some pics and post.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did some more items today. Ordered plugs, LED headlights came in and are installed. Cleaning up some wiring, ordered an accessory fuse block, waiting for LED tail lights to come in. Ordered a couple of gaskets and a shifter seal. Took the front chain sprocket cover off, lots of crap in this area. Looking into an oil leak in the same area, think the clutch slave needs to be rebuilt. Small cost, but have found that hydraulic clutch slaves when the fluid is not flushed regularly, crud up fast and affect the sealing arrangement.

Going to take the stator cover off and have a look, hopefully all is well.

Here are a couple of pic: first is of the wiring I'm going to clean up with the new fuse block, second is the front sprocket area, and final is the clutch slave.

Always something to do.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Have determined the culprit of the oil on the left lower side of the engine. Had the clutch slave off and hanging overnight, small pool of fluid directly under it this morning, shouldn't be any leakage. Not a lot but over time it will coat the surrounding area. First thing to rebuild when I get to order the parts.

Spent some time cleaning the area around the front sprocket and alternator cover. If there is another leak will be easier to find.

LEDs for the rear brake/tail lights came in. Wrong bayonet fitting. Need the 1157 type. Will check to make sure I ordered the right ones, if not these will not go to waste.

Drained the oil and removed the alternator cover. Magnets are in good nick, as is the stator (new 2 years ago). Laid in a small bead of JB weld, 15 to 24 hour curing time. Didn't fill up the whole space as the magnets haven't moved and the JB weld is just to keep the magnets in place and not move. Once the small amount sets up, the magnets will have to come completely off to move. Cleaned the spaces between the magnets with brake clean and HP air to dry. Gaskets should be here Wednesday/Thursday then cover back on. Lots of time for the JB weld to cure.

Ordered a 6-way accessory fuse block and it should be here tomorrow. Will be nice to get it installed and the wiring cleaned up.

Coolant drain tomorrow, it needs it and I have to get at the front spark plug. Have tried pulling the rad forward but not enough movement.

Lots happening, looks worse than it is, but that is always the case.

First attachment is the alternator/front sprocket area cleaned and cover removed. Second - rotor magnets, third JB weld in place, and #4 is the stator looking good.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #19
More work done today, wiring. Shortened the Compufire RR positive and negative leads, didn't need 4 feet of wire in a 6 inch space.

6-way accessory fuse block came in. Had already started on cleaning up the wiring so the timing was good. The wiring that was in place was adequate and did the job, just a lot of fuses and wire tucked into the space behind the battery, and a lot of connections on the battery - I try to minimize connections at the battery terminals.

The install turned out well - room for additional circuits.

Have been looking into cruise control (CC). Have it on my Goldwings and definitely would have liked to have on the trip across Canada. Have been reading the various threads regarding this issue, and what is available. Being an economical Canadian, cost will be at the forefront of any decision. The Rostra appears to be a unit of choice with a more expensive unit being the MC unit.

Have found another thread of interest from researching the CC. It's "Farkling my Wee with the good stuff?" over on VStrom Riders International. Lots of good ideas for fitting various items.

As an aside, I wanted to share my tool kit that I use. It is a Stanley unit with three drawers. Has SAE/metric wrenches, 1/4. 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive socket sets, hex drives and a host of other items. I use this as my primary tool kit and without a doubt, can almost do everything on my bikes with it - a very indispensable kit. I like the aspect that when tools are put back into the kit in the right place, it's easy to spot if something is missing. Goes on sale here north of the border on a regular basis. Lifetime guarantee on the tools in the kit. Had a 1/4 inch ratchet fail on me. Called up the company, gave the number and one was shipped to me, good service. If you are looking for as close as possible to an all singing/dancing tool kit this is one option.

Want to drain the coolant, but the drain plug IAW the manual is apparently not part of the install on my bike. Any thoughts/ideas greatly appreciated.

More to do tomorrow, patiently waiting on the clutch basket to come in.

The attachments are from left to right:

Wiring maze before
Wiring maze redone
Water pump drain bolt missing
Stanley Too Kit
Stanley Tool Kit Drawer - example

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A little bit more done today. Found the coolant drain plug, not in the location in the OEM service manual, but close. Took rad off as well, can now access the front cylinder head for tappet inspection and spark plug change.

I wasn't going to look at the tappets, but this far into the tear down might as well. Will do the tappets after I get the alternator cover back on so I can see the timing marks.

Making up two wiring harnesses, one with 16 GA wire, other 18 GA wire. Going to lay these in running from behind the battery to up front under the headlights. Seems there is always a wire needed for some project and taking the gas tank off to find additional wires is very time consuming. I'm a fan of not splicing into the OEM wiring as it is the minimum size required to safely operate the bike as it came from the factory. Would rather use a separate accessory fuse block and have a separate accessory system operating. Keeps things simple when something goes amiss.

Waiting on the Smart Turn Signal unit. Want to install before gas tank goes back on.

More to come. Cheers
 
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