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Traced my charging problems to shifted magnets in the magneto rotor. After searching in these forums and checking Youtube, I went ahead and took things apart and removed the magnets (at the cost of a new 3 "speed" heat gun, on sale). Removed all the old glue (Only stuck to the magnets!) and then used brake cleaner to clean everything up.I then whipped out the JB Weld and reinstalled the magnets - late in the day of a very hot day (Yes - it does get hot here in the Great White North!) Why the mention of the temps and lateness of the day? Well I used some cut up chopsticks as spacers to evenly space the magnets as I stuck them on - the chopsticks were within a millimeter of being the right length. I then removed them and went to check things out a day and a half later. It seem that moving the car in and out of the garage (as well as heavy trucks driving by the house) set up enough vibrations for the magnets (especially those up top) to move a bit - just enough to attract themselves to each other. The bottom three that had been put in first stayed in place but the top three had joined the others near the bottom. After a suitable period of cursing, swearing and eyeing a nearby gas can and matches, I decided to remove the three "roamers", clean them and reinstall them. This time the spacers stayed in place for the "roamers" and the next day, the magnets were all where they belonged! As were the spacers, now firmly glued to to the spaces between them (I was having visions of the Roadrunner and Wiley Coyote - I was not the Roadrunner!) Out came the heat gun (and a concentrator to narrow its range) and I was able to pull out the chop... er, spacers. Now, I would like to add some JB Weld between the magnets as others have done, just in case I build up enough heat to soften the glue again to keep the magnets from roaming individually. So comes the next problem. (Damn, this is getting long!) The rotor does not look like the other 1st gen rotors I've seen in other pictures so I suspect this job has been done before (Only 80,000 km on my '06 DL1000). these magnets have a shape, when installed that makes a smaller space between the top edges than the space at the bottom, so putting some JB in there is going to be tricky. Remembering my spacers, I checked and found that I can get some aluminum rods (No - not welding rods) that are 5 mm in diameter. The chopsticks were 5.41 mm so I think that with a coat of JB Weld on the rods, they should be a reasonably snug fit between the magnets and with a melting point of over 1,200 deg F., they should not liquefy. Being non-ferrous, I would think they shouldn't affect the action of the rotor magnets and stator. Question - is there some other problem that could occur because of the added metal in the rotor? Does anyone know? Weight wise, the weight of aluminum is quite low and it would be evenly spread out. In fact,it might even be lighter than the same amount of JB. So - expert opinions? Tarrot card readings? Oh - and one more problem. The chopsticks weren't a perfect fit so onw pair of magnets have a space at the top just big enough for the rod to fit through if it somehow got loose, but given the centrifugal force of a spinning rotor, I don't think this could happen. Thanks in advance for any answers. Sorry this was so long, but I do like to talk - even when writing.
 

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I wouldn't mess with installing permanent spacers. The JB will do the job on its own. Just fill the gaps between magnets. All you need is a little ridge in there; you don't need to completely fill the gap. For anyone else doing this job, tile spacers work magnificently, just as you would use to set tile.
 

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This time the spacers stayed in place for the "roamers" and the next day, the magnets were all where they belonged! these magnets have a shape, when installed that makes a smaller space between the top edges than the space at the bottom,
Andy, good on you for being so thorough as to hang in there and get the magnets spaced evenly -- even if it took multiple times.

My concern is what I think I am reading "between the lines". Glue. Glue? Did you put glue on the magnets and then stick them to them to the case? If I read that you did, before you go further, check carefully and make sure the rotor still fits in and things can spin without rotor and magnets touching. The free space between the magnets and the rotor is so slight that nothing more than a film could fit between them.

JB Weld only between the magnets. I filled the gaps between mine, to the top, Once it dried, it seemed to have shrunk down a bit. I used tape on the edge to keep it from flowing out when it was still wet. A touch of the dremel here and there cleaned things up nicely so all was perfectly smooth and clean before closing up the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I wouldn't mess with installing permanent spacers. The JB will do the job on its own. Just fill the gaps between magnets. All you need is a little ridge in there; you don't need to completely fill the gap. For anyone else doing this job, tile spacers work magnificently, just as you would use to set tile.
Thanks for the reply. As I mentionned, the difference in width of the gap from top to bottom will make getting the JB in there from edge to edge a bit tricky. That was why I thought of using the rod as a spacer. In the end, that may not matter anyway as I have purchased a series type regulator / rectifier which is supposed to lower the operating temperature in the rotor and should (hopefully) avoid the melting of the adhesive which allowed the magnets to migrate. I just prefer the extra protection because, as the old saying goes, "If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all!"
Andy, good on you for being so thorough as to hang in there and get the magnets spaced evenly -- even if it took multiple times.

My concern is what I think I am reading "between the lines". Glue. Glue? Did you put glue on the magnets and then stick them to them to the case? If I read that you did, before you go further, check carefully and make sure the rotor still fits in and things can spin without rotor and magnets touching. The free space between the magnets and the rotor is so slight that nothing more than a film could fit between them.

JB Weld only between the magnets. I filled the gaps between mine, to the top, Once it dried, it seemed to have shrunk down a bit. I used tape on the edge to keep it from flowing out when it was still wet. A touch of the dremel here and there cleaned things up nicely so all was perfectly smooth and clean before closing up the case.
Thanks! Iappreciate your concern and tips. Yes - I "glued" the magnets but was very careful to squeeze the coating down to as thin a layer as possible. I was aware of potential clearance problems but several videos I viewed and discussions I read from others who did the job indicated that there was sufficient clearance even with the JB Weld. I will do my best to check for clearances before starting the bike but that will also be a tricky move. For what it's worth, the layer of "factory" glue seemed to be about the same thickness as my layer of JB which I was able to verify when I had to remove and clean the "migrating" magnets. As a side note, the rotor in my bike doesn't have the "spacing" holes around the outside as did those in the videos I viewed and this led me to believe that this problem may already have occurred on this bike. It would have been nice if Suzuki had recognized the problem and addressed it way back then! The stator itself looks like new and passed all the static tests. One thing I have decided. If I have to do this again (Oh please no - not that!) I will remove the rotor so that I can work on it standing up in my air conditioned home , not crouched down in my 95 degree garage twisting my old neck to see inside the rotor!
 

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First I will confirm the difference in rotors. Earlier versions had holes around the diameter that were in the space between magnets. Later versions have no holes, I assume the factory figured they are not needed.
More than a few times owners trying to "glue" the magnet in place have caused a catastrophic failure. Magnets touching the rotor is NOT good...All you need is a bridge between the magnets to keep the spacing correct. Magnetic attraction and centrifugal force will hold them in place.
There is one reason standard 24 hour cure JB Weld is the choice for doing this modification. It is about the only epoxy rated for 400F continuous and 500F intermittent temperatures AND it is rated for full immersion in oil. There are no worries about it degrading when properly used.
 
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