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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Edited post: Hankook 205 50 17 K110 on my DL1k after a 1500 mile trip from Kansas to Duluth, MN and back in less than 2 days

Pros: Great inline traction and super stability in vertical axis. Great Grip and smooth acceleration. Great braking response and when the rear brake is hit hard very little if any tendency to have the rear wheel come around or lay over, that was most impressive. Being from Kansas the wind on the interstates, and most every where else in Kansas, is bad and with the CT the lateral stabilization and wind resistance is exponentially improved. Simply put the bike stays more upright and you dont move across the lane as easily as you do with a MC tire. This equates to an easier ride with less fatigue from constant steering correction. Semi truck blast is lessened when passing or being passed by them. In both cases this equates to a safer ride. The wear factor is excellent. 1500 miles and there is no MEASURABLE (micrometer measured) tread loss with in 2 SD of the mean. When you come to a hard stop at a light and are heavy on the front brake there is less chance that the bike dives hard in the lean angle if your forks are slightly turned...in other words, the bike wants to stay more upright. This can be a safer issue because the truth be told when you are at the end of a ride and are tired and it is cold the reflexes are not what they are when you are fresh, so there may be less chance of having a butt clincher wake up getting your foot down.

Cons: True enough, I wont lie, cornering is not the same. You do have a tendency to make wider corners because the tire wants to go straight. You have to add more countersteering to make the bike follow the line. Slow speed radius locked bar turning is a bit harder but still very doable with some adjustment. People intrusiveness is increased, "What kind of tire is that?" I got a lot of that on this trip. I tell them, and they look at me like I have 2 heads and 20 foot dick dragging behind me.

Final conclusions, I have noticed that many who consider themselves MC riders put less then 10k miles on a bike in a year most likely they only put on maybe 3k over the summer. They go out and think they are riders when they do twisties on the dragons back in NC or some such canyon carving. Whoopie, 218 curves in 11 miles, a CT is not for you guys. My MC is loaded down with Happy Trail paniers full of gear, I wear ATGATT, Aerostich, Sidi boots and when i go for a ride, it is 1500 to 3k miles in a weekend. Most of my driving is Interstate super slab or nice beautiful 2 lane back roads with great scenery. Dont get me wrong i love the twisities also and for that I have a Honda ST1300. The ST is my work bike that i commute on when im on remote jobs. On that there is not better than ME880s, great tires great wear and responsive on the HEAVIER bike. But, after the CT on the DL1k, I just may try he CT on the ST if im going coast to coast to Coast or on one of those 5k vacations where I dont want to goof off on the twisties. Hey im an Old fart, 57 years old but incase you have not noticed the mean age of the IBA Rallies, think 40-50 not 20 to 30. Any way, A CT is not for everyone, and it is not for every kind of riding, but if you know the limits of your machine and go into the decision knowing what the limitations are, then it may be for you if you want to 1) Have less tire expense both in cost and frequent changing expenses, 2) Better inline traction for windy interstate or windy flat land riding, 3) Know that it is not the ideal twisty tire but for the most part is GREAT for touring.

What motivated me to even entertain a CT for the DL1k? Next year, 2012 Alaska for a month is on my itinerary. I did not want to add $700 to the budget for tire and changes plus the added or loss of a day to get the work done. Im buying a new Tourance front tire and going with the Hankook rear tire. I will put 12 to 15k mile on the weighted down DL and should not have to change tires, but I expect the Tourance to be shot when I return home..
 

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I do not believe in spending big dollars on tires for "reassurance." A nail never knows what brand a tire is and from what I can tell, they do not discriminate.

However, all I care about is mileage they return and relative grip. I have some Shinko 712s (I think) on my XJ750 and flat out love them. 110 in the front 120 in the back and were $99 shipped from bikebandit.

I will do the same with my Vee when the time comes. Probably try the 705s. But it will look into the Hankooks too. Thanks for pointing me in that direction.
 

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[...]
However, all I care about is mileage they return and relative grip. [...]
Your two "cares" are mutually exclusive.
The longest-lasting bike tires I've ever used (Bridgestons Battlax bt-45, for 35,000kms) had more grip than my racecar's Hoosier r-35s (20 minutes on the track); they were much softer, and yet they lasted longer. Of course, that was on a machine that was 1/4 the weight.

By comparison, the battlewings I use now are twice as grippy, and they last me about 18,000kms... (the stock trailwings were good for 20,000).

Car tires are designed to hold more than 2x the weight of a m/c tire. That weight comes into the equation when it is time to determine grip.

I'm sure they'll last at least twice as long, but I'm also sure that a m/c tire will grip 4x as hard.

It's always a compromise between longevity and grip. you can never have both.
 

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It's always a compromise between longevity and grip. you can never have both.
Which is why I said I care about mileage and relative grip.

:thumbup:
 

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Car tires are designed to hold more than 2x the weight of a m/c tire. That weight comes into the equation when it is time to determine grip.

I'm sure they'll last at least twice as long, but I'm also sure that a m/c tire will grip 4x as hard.

It's always a compromise between longevity and grip. you can never have both.
Except that the car tire when running in a straight line will have maybe 4x the contact patch of a m/c tire. Cornering, well that's something else.

The whole thing seems bizarre to me, and if it's all in the name of saving a couple bucks, maybe a new hobby is in order.
 

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Except that the car tire when running in a straight line will have maybe 4x the contact patch of a m/c tire. Cornering, well that's something else.[...]
Surface area is a small (the smallest?) component of grip. Texture (how soft the rubber is) and weight (how many Newtons are pushing it into the road) are much larger factors (so is speed).

The only issue I have with a CT is that its contact patch decreases when leaning over, while the bike tire's contact patch increases. I don't think that's generally much of a problem (see preceding paragraph), but considering the CT's rubber is at least 4x less grippy (due to the rubber compound and the decreased weight it is carrying), I'm not sure I'd want to change one of the variables that comes into my grip equation, even if it is the smallest factor.

I might try a CT one of these days; I'd like a spare wheel to experiment with though.
 

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I still say it is ridiculous to be using a care tire on a motorcycle.......but to each their own, and Strom owners are notoriously cheap skates.:fineprint:
 

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The only issue I have with a CT is that its contact patch decreases when leaning over, while the bike tire's contact patch increases. .

this is not an issue, cause even though the CT's patch decreases and the bike tires patch increases (I'll take yer word on that on that there may be a marginal increase in size)

at its smallest contact patch, its still bigger than the largest contact patch of a bike tire



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[...]

at its smallest contact patch, its still bigger than the largest contact patch of a bike tire
We've been over this before Randy. It wasn't bigger when I leaned over my car tire and my biek tire and stamped them on a piece of paper (admittedly, I had no weight on them).
My concern is not so much that (as it's probably the most minor factor in traction), but the fact that the CT has 1/4 the "stickyness" of a MC tire. I'm sure it workls fine in the straights, but I'd be worry about an already ungrippy contact patch decreasing in area on me when I lean the bike over.
Like I said; maybe one day I'll try it out, but I'll definitely use a racing compound tire like a Toyo RA-1 or Yokohama A-032R.
 

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don't know what to say duck,

my tire is soft & pliable even is sub zero F temps, not a hocky puck like a bike tire, and guess what, its still soft and pliable even at 90° and after floggin it in the twisities that still has traction thru a mud puddle.

compared to a greasy overheated rubber shredding off the sides bike tire,



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I have been running Tourances on front and rear tires and got tired of paying the big bux for new rubber. Enter Randyo, I read the forums, went to honda forums, FJR forums, and some Darkide forums for cruiser and made my educated decision. Shopped ebay and fround better price then Tirerack.com then dropped $89 dollars for a Hankook 205 50 zr 17 K110 tire. $25 to mount and balance and 41psi, some bearing grease and anti seize, a bit of elbow grease and a $15 harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench with a 24mm socket and I am up and running.

My first impression is WoW what grip over the stock tire. Great inline stability and not really much work in the corners. Actually, from what can tell, there is not much difference in the curves when compared to a flattened crown tire. So far it works great and tomorrow my son, mcb2 and I are heading out tomorrow for a 1500 mile ride up to Aerostitch and back.

Ill tell you more later.

Whitehorse
If you can't tell the handling difference between a car tire and a motorcycle tire...well then you're probably just fine with a car tire.

 

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I followed a valkerie the other day with a car tire and I could not tell until he came to a stop.It leaned over just fine and he was hauling butt thru the corners.I LOVE my CT and will never go back.
 

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Great video in that link. One thing I find odd about the CT is the flat area. When I wear a flat spot in a motorcycle tire the handling just doesn't work. How does this translate to a car tire where the flat spot is so much larger?
 

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Great video in that link. One thing I find odd about the CT is the flat area. When I wear a flat spot in a motorcycle tire the handling just doesn't work. How does this translate to a car tire where the flat spot is so much larger?
the sidewall flex simulates the arc of a bike tire :confused:

I don't think I would try a bias ply car tire

I also think that tire distortion that comes with faster speeds makes the tire shape closer to a bike tire's shape + on the strom anyway, the CT is severely pinched, kinda forcing the tread to arc to begin with

I dunno, just theorizing

at low speeds, you know its different fer sure but nothing you can't get used to, once your moving (and you've found "your" pressure) its no more different handling than the difference between trailwings or annakees or TKCs, its just a different tire



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Ok, I was way off on understanding what was going on here. I thought Hankook was making motorcycle tires now. I am all for inexpensive motorcycle tires...not car tires.
 

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Ok, I was way off on understanding what was going on here. I thought Hankook was making motorcycle tires now. I am all for inexpensive motorcycle tires...not car tires.
I'll say this, you'll see a car tire on my Vee long before a shitko. I see car tires on nice motorcycles, never seen a shitko on one!
 

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3 things I don't cut corners on

# things I never cut corners on: Steering, Brakes & Tires = those are life and death items = safety before $$$$$$
 

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don't know what to say duck,

my tire is soft & pliable even is sub zero F temps, not a hocky puck like a bike tire, and guess what, its still soft and pliable even at 90° and after floggin it in the twisities that still has traction thru a mud puddle. [...]
I'm not talking about the tire; I'm talking about the rubber on the tire...
The soft or hard carcass is irrelevant (on a smooth road) when it's the rubber molecules that adhere to the road molecules.
Does your fingernail leave an indentation in the tread if you press it in? It doesn't when I press on the tire on my Volkswagen, but it does on my bike's tire, and definitely did on my racecar; those tires were like soft bubble gum.
 

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don't know what to say duck,

my tire is soft & pliable even is sub zero F temps, not a hocky puck like a bike tire, and guess what, its still soft and pliable even at 90° and after floggin it in the twisities that still has traction thru a mud puddle.

compared to a greasy overheated rubber shredding off the sides bike tire,
A lot of folks have never experienced what a winter radial is capable of doing. The rubber will stick to almost any surface at any temp. The rubber compound wears faster but should last much longer on a bike compared to a cage.
 
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