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Yes but for how long and how consistently?
Well you could buy a HF wrench every 6 months for about 10 years if need be for the price of one Snapon wrench.

My son buys other HF stuff too after watching some Snapon tools break, air sockets for example.
 

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I have had good luck with "most" of my HF tools. Of my 3 Torque wrenches, the low and medium range are Craftsman and my big one is HF. I see no discernible difference in quality. From my previous life wrenching full time, I have an eclectic mix of Snap-on and Craftsman. The stuff with lifetime warranties cost more; however, in my opinion that is because they just factor in replacing some of the busted ones that get used a lot or abused.

I take very good care of all of my torque wrenches and treat them like the tools they are, precision measuring devices. I check the calibration periodically and have never had one out of calibration enough to even warrant readjusting.
 

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I have a mix of Snap On, Mac, Matco, Craftsman, etc tools and I wrench for a living and recreation. There are discernible differences between HF tools and the high end tools. The dimensional tolerance in the HF tools is all over the place. Look at the quality or lack of, the HF castings. There is a big difference. Yes, an HF torque wrench may work but for how long and how consistently? Unless you get your torque wrenches cal'd, and I do, you'll never know. Sure you can keep buying HF torque wrenches because they're cheap but you don't know when they are ready to be sh=t canned. I won't trust my life or anybody else's, whether it's a motorcycle or an airplane, on a cheap tool.
Sorry about the thread creep.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
A lot going on here. There is no gasket, this is sealed with a sealing compound when built.

1: Check that those bolts in that area are tight. No downside to doing that beyond don't over do it!
2: Even though the die seems to show the oil in the seam, oil doesn't always do what you think it would. It can travel by seeping and collect a fair distance from where it actually is leaking from. So do NOT rule out the drain plug just yet.
If it IS coming from the area where the two crankcase halves join, there is only one way to fix it "by the book". You know what that is.
While there may be something ( like loctite 638 ) that would creep into that seam and seal, I would never trust it. If tightening the fasteners works, then that would be ok.
I cleaned it real good again then waited a couple days for oil to appear again. This time I ran a q tip around the drain bolt and crossed my fingers it would be any easy fix. Clicked on the black light...no glow on the q tip, so unfortunately I think it's safe to say it's not the plug. At this point I wish it was :(
 

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Did you tighten those 2 bolts?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
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What about the spray sealant I've seen on telly that will cause a boat made of window screen seal up and stay afloat?
 

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I had a similar leak on my 1000 over 120,000 miles back. After a detailed cleanup and degreasing of the entire seam, had my mechanic finger-paint black RTV on anywhere he could get a finger to in an effort to avoid having to crack the whole thing open. Looks terrible, works great. Here's a picture. I tried to wipe the area down a bit to give an idea (don't worry, that oily mess is well earned from "naturally occurring sources" :) No drips in my parking spot unless the clutch push-rod seal goes out every 50,000 or so)

274802
 

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Isn’t there already residue of a sealer such as Permatex? What’s that black stuff hanging out there that I tried to capture with a purple arrow? Together with the bolt heads having clearly been used, it looks like this may not the first time this bike had leak issues.
 
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