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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I decided to give my 2007 vstrom 1000 some love. I changed the oil. Couldnt get the crush washer off the drain plug so I bought a new plug and crush washer. Finished up the job but it sat for a few days before I could ride it due to some family issues. Went to ride it and had some fresh oil on the ground. Thought maybe it was just slippage from the change. Leaned it all up and had more several days later. Scoured forums and most people found it was the push rod seal or reusing a crush washer or something and the oil just traveled to the lowest spot, the seam where the two halves of the engine meet up on the bottom. Know my luck with vehicles I was pretty sure it was going to be the engine seam. Bought some UV dye and a black light. Wouldnt you know it...I was right. Sometimes I dont want to be right. Am I screwed? Shop estimates 14+ hours plus parts to pull the engine out, dismantle it, and put it back together. Said I'm probably looking at close to $2k for parts and labor. It's been a great bike, but that's quite a bit for a 2007. I hear those gasket sealers you pour in your oil that plug up leaks just ruin your engine. Anybody have thoughts on that? What about some JB wels or an epoxy along that seam? Would that seal it up or would it not work because there's oil residue leaking so it wouldnt set? I dont want to do a trashy repair but I dont have $2k to throw at it.

Any suggestions or that's it?

Here's the pic of the dye glowing in the black light. I had it in neutral and ran it on the center stand for a few minutes. Went back out 30 min later and snapped this pic.

274493
 

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First thing I would do is back off those case bolts a half turn and re-torque them - one at a time.
 

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Me I would JB Weld it.

Drain the oil, lay the bike on the side and clean the area very well. Acetone or similar and rough up the area with a wire wheel on a drill. Clean again.

Use JB Weld original not the quick set. Let it set up for a day or so.

Careful you don't JB the drain plug! 😁
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I decided to give my 2007 vstrom 1000 some love. I changed the oil. Couldnt get the crush washer off the drain plug so I bought a new plug and crush washer. Finished up the job but it sat for a few days before I could ride it due to some family issues. Went to ride it and had some fresh oil on the ground. Thought maybe it was just slippage from the change. Leaned it all up and had more several days later. Scoured forums and most people found it was the push rod seal or reusing a crush washer or something and the oil just traveled to the lowest spot,
Me I would JB Weld it.

Drain the oil, lay the bike on the side and clean the area very well. Acetone or similar and rough up the area with a wire wheel on a drill. Clean again.

Use JB Weld original not the quick set. Let it set up for a day or so.

Careful you don't JB the drain plug! 😁
Me I would JB Weld it.

Drain the oil, lay the bike on the side and clean the area very well. Acetone or similar and rough up the area with a wire wheel on a drill. Clean again.

Use JB Weld original not the quick set. Let it set up for a day or so.

Careful you don't JB the drain plug! 😁
When you say original, are you talking the putty or the standard liquid that comes in the 2 tubes, just not a quick set kind? Which side you you lean the bike on? How far past the leaking area would you apply the jb weld?

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When you say original, are you talking the putty or the standard liquid that comes in the 2 tubes, just not a quick set kind? Which side you you lean the bike on? How far past the leaking area would you apply the jb weld?

Thanks
2 tubes.

Doesn't matter which side whatever is convient. I would lean it over so what oil is left in it doesn't pool at the bottom easier to work on to I would think.

Roughing up the surface will ensure that the JB will adhere so I don't think you'll have to go much past the problem area. Can if you want for piece of mind!I

JB is great stuff for repairing motorcycle cases!
 
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Ugh...oil leaks! I hate 'em. I too would re-torque those two bolts. Just not to the specs in the manual, since all the specs seem to be too high! Then clean it up and run it again and see what happens.

It could also just be the drain plug, since I do see glowing oil going in a line to the plug.
 
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Ugh...oil leaks! I hate 'em. I too would re-torque those two bolts. Just not to the specs in the manual, since all the specs seem to be too high! Then clean it up and run it again and see what happens.

It could also just be the drain plug, since I do see glowing oil going in a line to the plug.
Yep do the easy stuff first!
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Ugh...oil leaks! I hate 'em. I too would re-torque those two bolts. Just not to the specs in the manual, since all the specs seem to be too high! Then clean it up and run it again and see what happens.

It could also just be the drain plug, since I do see glowing oil going in a line to the plug.
Unfortunately it's not the drain plug. I wish it was. That would be so much easier and less expensive and would take all my stress away. I looked at the pic I posted again to see what you were seeing. I noticed what you were referring to. What looks like glowing dye towards the drain plug is the reflection of where the finish of the metal goes from textured to smooth around the plug
274499
 

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Not sure about the stroms but most bikes don't have gaskets between the cases so the seal swell will not work.

This worked for me on a old dirt bike and would be worth a try.

Loctite make a post assembly thread locker,290... it is a wicking grade product and will suck into small gaps.

Drain the oil, lay the bike on its side and give everything a good clean.

Back off any bolts you can find, clean again, I used everything I could get my hands on, degreaser, alcohol, thinners and spray on grease and wax remover used to prepare a surface for paint.

Allow a good time for it to dry & evaporate.

Apply the 290 thread locker, I used a cotton ear bud, apply as much as you can continuously going back & forth over the gap then allow it to dry.

When it's dry, tape off the area and paint it with a good epoxy paint.

Refill with oil and hope for the best.

If it fails I would then apply the JB weld.

Good luck
 

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I'd slow down. Reading your original post, you don't mention any leak before you changed the oil.
Are you saying that the leak began after you changed the oil?
And after you put in a different oil plug and crush washer?
And that it hadn't been ridden in between the oil change and discovering the leak?
If all three of those are the true case, you have to refer to the old adage;
If it walks like a duck and squawks like a duck ... its the drain plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ugh...oil leaks! I hate 'em. I too would re-torque those two bolts. Just not to the specs in the manual, since all the specs seem to be too high! Then clean it up and run it again and see what happens.

It could also just be the drain plug, since I do see glowing oil going in a line to the plug.
Looks like I'd have to take the header off to get to those bolts. Not enough clearance between the bolt head and the exhaust piping to get a ratchet in there
Not sure about the stroms but most bikes don't have gaskets between the cases so the seal swell will not work.

This worked for me on a old dirt bike and would be worth a try.

Loctite make a post assembly thread locker,290... it is a wicking grade product and will suck into small gaps.

Drain the oil, lay the bike on its side and give everything a good clean.

Back off any bolts you can find, clean again, I used everything I could get my hands on, degreaser, alcohol, thinners and spray on grease and wax remover used to prepare a surface for paint.

Allow a good time for it to dry & evaporate.

Apply the 290 thread locker, I used a cotton ear bud, apply as much as you can continuously going back & forth over the gap then allow it to dry.

When it's dry, tape off the area and paint it with a good epoxy paint.

Refill with oil and hope for the best.

If it fails I would then apply the JB weld.

Good luck
Interesting. I know there is something in there. Dont know if it's an actual gasket or just gasket maker, but further back I can see a little something hanging out
274500

I'd slow down. Reading your original post, you don't mention any leak before you changed the oil.
Are you saying that the leak began after you changed the oil?
And after you put in a different oil plug and crush washer?
And that it hadn't been ridden in between the oil change and discovering the leak?
If all three of those are the true case, you have to refer to the old adage;
If it walks like a duck and squawks like a duck ... its the drain plug.
Leak could have been there before. Likely was. I'll have to check that plastic cowl that has to be removed to do the oil change and see if there is oil that it collected. I'm guessing it will have some. It cant be the plug. I wish it was. Theres no oil seeping from it. The oil us seeping from the crankcase seam as shown in previous pictures
 

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Have you ridden the bike at all or is it just sitting? Take it for a good ride and THEN reevaluate the situation, as this point in time I think you could be getting into something you don't need to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have you ridden the bike at all or is it just sitting? Take it for a good ride and THEN reevaluate the situation, as this point in time I think you could be getting into something you don't need to be.
Not since I put the dye in the oil, but I did ride it the day before. I cleaned the whole area with brake cleaner and a rag. I rode it to a place I needed to go about 5 minutes down the road. After the bike had cooled enough to touch, I wiped my finger along that seam and there was oil on my finger
 

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A lot going on here. There is no gasket, this is sealed with a sealing compound when built.

1: Check that those bolts in that area are tight. No downside to doing that beyond don't over do it!
2: Even though the die seems to show the oil in the seam, oil doesn't always do what you think it would. It can travel by seeping and collect a fair distance from where it actually is leaking from. So do NOT rule out the drain plug just yet.
If it IS coming from the area where the two crankcase halves join, there is only one way to fix it "by the book". You know what that is.
While there may be something ( like loctite 638 ) that would creep into that seam and seal, I would never trust it. If tightening the fasteners works, then that would be ok.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
A lot going on here. There is no gasket, this is sealed with a sealing compound when built.

1: Check that those bolts in that area are tight. No downside to doing that beyond don't over do it!
2: Even though the die seems to show the oil in the seam, oil doesn't always do what you think it would. It can travel by seeping and collect a fair distance from where it actually is leaking from. So do NOT rule out the drain plug just yet.
If it IS coming from the area where the two crankcase halves join, there is only one way to fix it "by the book". You know what that is.
While there may be something ( like loctite 638 ) that would creep into that seam and seal, I would never trust it. If tightening the fasteners works, then that would be ok.
Thank you for the response. Some have said to not torque to suzuki specs. Do you have a torque suggestion? I appreciate the info about no gasket. That eliminates one of the less than favorable options. I would love for the oil to be leaking from something as simple as the drain plug. I just dont see how it could be coming out of the plug and accumulating in the seam without any die showing up between the two with the black light. I'm not sure how to test that idea either
 

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I'm not sure why you'd not torque to Suzuki spec.? They've built ten of thousands of these motors for decades using the same torque spec for these bolts. If there was an issue it would have reared it head long ago.

I would check that my torque wrench is calibrated prior to nipping up on the fasteners.
 

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How much oil are you losing? For 2K on an older bike I might consider a piece of cardboard if the leak is not too bad. If you don't have any cardboard you can buy a 65 inch TV for like 500 dollars and have 1500 left over for oil. Use the TV box to catch the dripping oil. Use the TV to follow the pandemic news. On second thought... it might be better for your health to just work on the leak. kfh000
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How much oil are you losing? For 2K on an older bike I might consider a piece of cardboard if the leak is not too bad. If you don't have any cardboard you can buy a 65 inch TV for like 500 dollars and have 1500 left over for oil. Use the TV box to catch the dripping oil. Use the TV to follow the pandemic news. On second thought... it might be better for your health to just work on the leak. kfh000
I have thought about just adding oil. It's a small spot on the ground after a couple days. My concern is how much I might lose while riding. I worry as the oil heats up and gets thinner, it will leak faster. I'd hate to run low on a ride.
 

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The torques listed in the shop manual are often wrong for suzuki's. Do a search for " torque rear axle greywolf" Greywolf gave a number of better torque specs than the shop manual gives. a friend of mine had a drz400. you will never get the '400 stator bolts up to the book specification without disaster. Greywolf was and is a Vstrom owners best friend. check his recommendations.
 

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Those fasteners are small. Most don't have a 1/4" drive torque wrench, and even at that it needs to be a good one. I simply do not trust torque wrenches on these small fasteners without first having one in a vise to see if it seems to be putting what seems like appropriate torque on them.
On this I would use the snug method. Palm of hand over the head of a ratchet and treat it like a sheet metal screw. Meaning easily stripped so you just want a gentle snug. You will know if these are loose immediately.
 
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