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All I know is that after being stranded a long way from a major city with a burnt-out stator earlier this year,fitting a new battery which got me closer to civilization before it ran flat, and then waiting four days for a replacement stator and copping a $900 supply and fit bill,--- I have now become paranoid about a similar event occurring again and this has taken a lot of the enjoyment out of the long solo rides I used to look forward to so much.

The new stator and battery have been joined by a new regulator/rectifier, and the first things that go into my panniers when packing for an extended ride now are the original R/R and the original stator which has been rewound. I'll hopefully never need them, and it's a pain having to cart them everywhere with me, but they're insurance against having to go through all that drama again. I just hope I'm within striking distance of a workshop if it ever happens again.
 

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The new stator and battery have been joined by a new regulator/rectifier, and the first things that go into my panniers when packing for an extended ride now are the original R/R and the original stator which has been rewound. I'll hopefully never need them, and it's a pain having to cart them everywhere with me, but they're insurance against having to go through all that drama again. I just hope I'm within striking distance of a workshop if it ever happens again.
I may get my original stator rewound as a spare, but I would never ever put the oem RR back on my bike after installing a MOSFET type RR, not that I ever expect problems with the MOSFET rr, the oem RRs are a failure waiting to happen



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I sometimes think the OEM rectifier is the main cause of stator failures. A MOSFET type is a better option. It bolts on to the stock mounts. The wiring is just about connecting the three wires out for the stator and two wires to the battery with a new main fuse inline. The radiator hose may need to be turned outward slightly to clear. That just involves loosening and re-tightening two hose clamps.

R/R Connectors
http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen FH012AA Regulator upgrade kit.htm

 

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I sometimes think the OEM rectifier is the main cause of stator failures.
I'm also leaning in this direction, but my reasoning may differ from others as to why. I think it's more to do with the location and possibly power rating. It sits right in the radiator hot air stream, which can be 50ºF hotter than ambient. This combined with being marginally rated could be pushing it past its heat limits. It would be interesting to know the % of failures happening during hot weather.

The solution could be to either to upgrade to a higher capacity R/R, or relocate it to a cooler spot, or somehow otherwise improve its heat dissapation.

I understand that the popular MOSFET replacement is rated 50 amps. Anyone know the oem R/R rating?
 
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