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2003 DRZ400S, 1968 Triumph TR6C (undergoing lengthy restoration, bought new in February 1969)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2023 DL650 XT and am curious about the alternator output on this bike. It's not listed in the owner's manual which lacks quite a bit of useful information it seems. Anyone able to point me to a better source of info?
thanks,
John in San Diego
 

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There is a thread around here somewhere that is now several years old listing the power output of the various models and years. Try identifying the last time Suzuki changed the rotor and stator and that will tell you which value would apply to your bike.

Edit: I looked everywhere for that thread and couldn't find it. It's here somewhere. Maybe someone else will remember where.

DL650 alternators went from 375 to 400 watts in 2008 and don't appear to have changed since. (I could be wrong). But that is total output, not usable since some has to go to running the engine, lights, etc.
 

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This might be useful.

2008 and later 650s put out [email protected] That leaves about 125-150W for extras. Motors, incandescent lights and heated gear are the big draws. A GPS draws very little. A headlight cutout switch provides an extra 55W for daytime riding. LED lights, replacing the stock headlights with HIDs and providing heat for the torso, hands and feet where it is needed instead of less useful areas like heated seats are ways to get more bang for the watt.
In addition to just unplugging one of the headlights, the headlights themselves can be made to draw less power by careful selection of LED replacement elements.
 

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In the 2017 DL 650 it's called an AC Generator.
  • No load output: 60v VAC @ 5000rpm cold
  • Regulated voltage: 14-15 VDC
  • Output: Approx. 390W @ 5000 rpm.
  • 12v, 10Ah battery
Seeing as how Suzuki is discontinuing the DL650 for the new 800cc parallel twin, I doubt they made any changes to charging performance specs in a 2023 DL 650 from any recent model. If anything, output would be increased IMO, but I don't know. If you are trying to figure out reserve charging capacity for adding heated gear, accessories, etc, the above should be an acceptable guide.
 
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If you are trying to figure out reserve charging capacity for adding heated gear, accessories, etc, the above should be an acceptable guide.
That wattage is also a maximum, not a constant. Should install a voltmeter to ensure the bike isn't discharging with the accessories turned on, since the bike certainly isn't generating that wattage below a given RPM threshold.
 

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Figure that the 650 has about 100 watts available.

Yes you can reduce what the bike consumes but the rectifier is a shunt type. It draws the full rectifier current at all times and shunts the excess to ground causing more heat for the stator. There was a recall for burned up stators a few years back.

The "fix" at the time was to replace the rectifier with a series type. It will only draw the current required.

Forum search: stator
 

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My 2017 Wee had a voltmeter so it was easy to check how the system was handling the load.
As for draws: Several suggestions have been mentioned, things like changing the high draw head light to a low draw LED bulb. This change alone can make a difference if you are using heated clothing.
Remember that when looking at load to consider that things like a heated 90 Watt jacket only draws 90 Watts when its running at 100% heat, something one rarely does. Same goes for heated grips. I estimate that my heated gear actually only ran at 20 to 30 percent of power most of the time with only short bursts at 50 percent. Over 50% for any time at all and I was overheated! On my '05 Wee with two head light bulbs in cold weather I would just turn off one bulb which gave me an extra 45 Watts or so to work with. Just for fun put your hand in front of your head light and see how hot your hand gets!

Some over think this and say things like turn off your heated gear when you stop at a intersection or whatever. While this does lighten the load, its over kill! One of the main jobs of the battery is to handle electrical loads when the output of the charging system is less than the load, as it would be say at engine idle. As soon as you rev back up the battery will be charging back up. In seventeen years of riding Wee's, usually with two of us both with headed clothing and with heated grips I never had an issue with the electrical system being overloaded and got at least five years service out of a battery. Don't over think this!
 

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@ Cryoman, wrt #5 above, the manual is wrong!! From K4 - K7 the stator output was 375 watts but from K8 on the stator output was 400 watts. I don't see the logic for the L2 with ABS return to a 375 watt stator. The extra stator output was deemed necessary for the ABS plus some extra output for aftermarket accessories, etc.
Have a look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_V-Strom_650. It's sad that the info for the newer models weren't updated on that site.
If a higher power wattage is required, then perhaps either of these mods could be the solution, Worlds most powerful v-strom! or External alternator for SV1000
 

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I have a 2022 Wee and with heated grips/jacket liner/15w aux LED lights running, the Wee's voltmeter rarely dips down to 13.0 Volts when all are running and am at an idle. It is usually at 14.2 when riding sedately.

Dusty
 

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2003 DRZ400S, 1968 Triumph TR6C (undergoing lengthy restoration, bought new in February 1969)
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info - I am looking at an electric vest and grip heaters - sounds like the alternator should be fine with those 2 things.
 

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Thanks for the info - I am looking at an electric vest and grip heaters - sounds like the alternator should be fine with those 2 things.
My bike seems to have no problem running heated grips, jacket and led fog lights. I will be putting in an LED headlight bulb before spring
 
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